Studies in Trade Unionism 



1 N THE 



Custom Tailoring Trade 



Charles Jacob Stowell 




Class 
Book 



^1^ 



Sa 



Copyright N^^„. 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSm 



STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM IN THE 
CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 



BY 



CHARLES JACOB STOWELL 
B. S. Illinois Wesleyan University, 1911 



THESIS 

Submitted in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for 

the Degree of 

MASTER OF ARTS 

IN ECONOMICS 



IN 



THE GRADUATE SCHOOL 
OF THE 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS 
1912 

( Copyright, IQ13, by Charles y. Stovjell) 

Published by the Journeymen Tailors Union of America 
Bloomington, Illinois, 1913 



0< 






Pantagraph Printing & Stationery Company 
bloomington, illinois 



©CI.A346291 



PREFACE. 



The paper here submitted is intended to form the basis 
for a more extended study of trade unionism in the custom 
tailoring trade. The attempt has been made, however, to 
give the present chapters some value apart from the more 
thorough investigation which has been planned for the 
future. The writer was employed in the general office of 
the Journeymen Tailors' Union of America from 1902 to 
191 1 and has had opportunity to study the organization and 
policies of the union; it was primarily for this reason that 
the present subject was chosen for a thesis. 

The officers and members of the Tailors' Union have 
been of great assistance in the preparation of this study, 
special thanks being due to Mr. E. J. Brais, secretary of the 
union, and to Mr. John B. Lennon, former secretary. The 
writer also wishes to express his appreciation of criticism 
and advice given by members of the Economics Seminary, 
University of Illinois. 

Charles Jacob StoweIvL. 
University of Illinois, 
June I, 1912. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



Bibliography 7 

Chapter I. History of the Tailoring Trade 11 

1, Ancient and Mediaeval Times. Rise of the Trade in England. 

2. History of the Trade in America. 

Chapter H. Present Conditions in the Tailoring Trade in America 
23 

1. Character of Establishments and Methods of Production. 

2. Seasons. 

3. Territorial Aspects. 

4. Prices and Customers. 

5. Concluding note. 

Chapter HI. History of Tailors' Unions in England and America, 
1721-1877 38 

1. Early English Unions. 

2. Early Unions in America. 

3. 1860-1887. Period of National Organization. 

4. Appendices : 

Appendix A. Outline of Tailors' Unions in England, 1721-1834. 
Appendix B. Constitution and By-laws of the Journeymen 

Tailors' National Union of the United States. 

1885. 
Appendix C. Biographical Sketch, John B. Lennon. 
Appendix D. Biographical Sketch, Eugene J. Brais. 

Chapter IV. Statistics of the Journeymen Tailors' Union of 
America 97 

I. Development of the Journeymen Tailors' Union of America. 
1883-1911. 
Table i. Condition of the National Union, 1883-1911 100 

(a) Source and accuracy. 

(b) Special notes. 

Table 2. Income and Expense 102 

(a) Source and accuracy. 

(b) Special notes (including supplementary tables). 



6 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 

Table 3. Legislative Sessions of the Journeymen Tailors' Union 

of America 109 

Special notes. 

IL Strikes and Lockouts 1 1 1 

Definitions. 

General Strike Policy of the Tailors' National Union. 

Causes of Strikes. Specific Union Policies. 

Strike Benefit. 

Table 4. Strike Benefit Regulations, 1884- 1 910 117 

Table 5. Expenditure for Organizing Purposes, Strike 
Benefits, Dearth Benefits, and Sick Benefits. . .118 

History of Strikes, 1881-1911. 

Table 6. Strikes and Lockouts in the Tailoring Trade, 
1881-1911 119 

(a) Source and accuracy. 

(b) Definitions and notation. 

(c) Special notes. 

III. Wages and Conditions of Union Tailors, January i, 1912 128 

Plan of investigation. 

List of local unions and questionnaire. 

Probable accuracy of returns. 

Guide to the tables. 

Classification by geographical sections. 

Summary of returns, t»y sections. 

Summary of large cities making returns. 

Table 7. General Statistics. Statistics of Organization 139 

(a) Notation. 

(b) Special notes. 

(c) Analysis and conclusions, (including supplementary 
tables). 

Table 8. Nature of Shops. Systems of Production and Wage 
Payment 151 

(a) Notation. 

(b) Special notes. 

(c) Analysis and conclusions. 

Table 9. Wages and Prices Insert, opposite p. 158 

(a) Methods of wage payment. 

(b) Special notes. 

(c) Analysis and conclusions (including supplementary 
tables). 

Concluding note, wages and conditions of union 
tailors. 



BIBLIOGRAPHY. 



I. GENERAL WORKS ON LABOR, ENGLISH. 

Brentano, Lujo. On the History and Development of Gilds and the 
Origin of Trade Unions. London, 1870. 

Unwin, George. Gilds and Companies of London. London, 1908. 

Unwin, George. Industrial Organization in the i6th and 17th Centuries. 
Oxford, 1904. 

Webb, Sidney and Beatrice. History of Trade Unionism. New ed., 
Longmans, New York, 1911. 

Webb^ Sidney and Beatrice, Industrial Democracy. 2 V, Longmans, 
New York, 1897. 

II. GENERAL WORKS ON LABOR, AMERICAN. 

Abbott, Edith. Women in Industry. New York, 1910. 

Adams, T. S., and Sumner, Helen. Labor Problems. New York, 1905, 

Barnett, George E. The Printers ; A Study in American Trade Union- 
ism. Pub. by American Economic Association, Third series, 
V. 10, No. 3, October, 1909. 

Barnett, George E. (Editor) Trial Bibliography of American Trade 
Union Publications. Baltimore, Johns Hopkins Press, 1904. 

Carlton, Frank T. History and Problems of Organized Labor. Heath 
& Co., Boston, 1911. 

Clark, L. D. Law of the Employment of Labor. New York, Mac- 
millan, 1911. 

Commons, John R., and Andrews, John B. (Editors) Documentary 
History of American Industrial Society. 10 V. A. H. Clark 
Co., Cleveland, 1910. 

Hollander, J, H., and Barnett, G. E. (Editors) Studies in American 
Trade Unionism, New York, Holt & Co., 1906. 

Kennedy, J. B. Beneficiary* Features of American Trade Unions. Bal- 
timore, Johns Hopkins Press, 1908. 

Spedden, Ernest R. The Trade Union Label. Baltimore, Johns Hop- 
kins Press, 1910. 

III. BOOKS OF TRAVEL AND HISTORY. 

Bruce, P. A. . Economic History of Virginia in the Seventeenth Cen- 
tury. 2 V. New York, Macmillan, 1896. 



8 BIBLIOGRAPHY. 

McMaster, John B. History of the People of the United States. 7 V. 
New York, Appleton, 1892. 

Thwaites, Reuben G. (Editor) Early Western Travels, 1748-1846. 32 
V. Qeveland, Ohio. 1906. 

IV. AMERICAN OFFICIAL PUBLICATIONS, FEDERAL AND 

STATE. 

Census of the United States. Decennial since 1790. Washington, D. C. 

Colorado, ist Biennial Report of the Bureau of Labor Statistics, Den- 
ver, 1888. 

Industrial Commission, Report of the United States. 19 V. Washing- 
ton, D. C, 1900- 1902. 

Massachusetts, nth Annual Report of the Bur*eau of Statistics of 
Labor. Boston, 1880. 

United States Bureau of Labor. Third Annual Report, on Strikes and 
Lockouts, 1881-1886. Washington, D. C, 1887. 

Woman and Child Wage-Earners in the United States, Report on Con- 
dition of. Published as Senate Document No. 645, 6ist Congress, 
2d Session. To be in 19 V. 
Especially : 

V. 9. Sumner, Helen L. History of Women in Industry 

in the United States. Washington, D. C, 1910. 
V. 10. Andrews, John B., and Bliss, W. D. P. History of 
Women in Trade Unions. Washington, D. C, 191 1. 

V. PUBLICATIONS OF LABOR ORGANIZATIONS. 

American Federation of Labor, Proceedings of the Conventions, 1881- 
191 1. (All recent numbers published in Washington.) 

American Federationist. Monthly. 1894 — . Washington, D. C. 

Journal of United Labor. 1880-1889. Official Organ of the Knights of 
Labor. Marblehead, Pittsburgh and Philadelphia. 

Tailors' National Trade's Union, Journeymen. Constitution and By- 
laws, English and German editions, Philadelphia, 1865. 

Tailors' International Trade's Union of the United States and 
Canada, Journeymen. Proceedings of the Eighth Annual 
Convention, Norfolk, Va., 1873. Pub. New York, 1873. 

Tailors' National Trade's Union, Journeymen. Proceedings of the 
Ninth Annual Convention, Syracuse, N. Y., 1874. Pub. New 
York, 1874. 

Tailors' National Trade's Union, Journeymen. Proceedings of the 
Tenth Annual Convention, St. Louis, Mo., 1875. German edi- 
tion. Pub. New York, 1875. 

Tailors' National Trade's Union, Journeymen. Proceedings of the 
Eleventh Annual Convention, Philadelphia, Pa., 1876. Ger- 
man edition. Pub. St. Louis, 1876. 



BIBLIOGRAPHY. 9 

Tailors' National Trade's Union, Journeymen. Twelfth Annual Re- 
port of Officers, 1877. Pub. Philadelphia, Pa., 1877. 

Tailors' National Union of the United States, Journeymen. Con- 
stitution and By-laws, also Proceedings, of the 26. Annual 
Convention, Chicago, Aug. 11-14, 1884. Pub, New York, 1884. 

Tailors' National Union of the United States, Journeymen. Con- 
stitution and by-laws, also proceedings of 3rd Annual Con- 
vention, Baltimore, August 10-15, 1885. Pub. New York, 1885. 

Tailors' National Union of the United States, Journeymen. Con- 
stitution and by-laws, 1887. Pub. New York, 1888. 

Tailors' Union of America, Journeymen. Constitutions of 1889, 1894, 
1896, 1898, 1900, 1902, 1904, 1906, 1908, 1910. Pub. New York 
and Bloomington, 111. 

Tailor, The. Official Organ of the Journeymen Tailors' Union of 
America. Monthly. New York, 1887-1895. Bloomington, 111., 
1895- 

VI. SPECIAL WORKS ON THE CLOTHING TRADE. 

Galton, Frank W. The Tailoring Trade. Published in a series en- 
titled, "Select documents illustrating the history of trade 
unionism." Edited under the direction of the London School 
of Economics and Political Science. London, 1896. 

Pope, Jesse E. Clothing Industry in New York. In Missouri Univer- 
sity Studies in Social Science, V. i, 1905. 

Willett, Mabel H. Employment of Women in the Clothing Trade. 
New York, 1902. 

VII. MISCELLANEOUS PERIODICALS. 

American Tailor and Cutter, The. Published by the John J, Mitchell 
Co., New York. Monthly. 1878— 

Commercial Handbook of Canada. Toronto, 1912. 

Sartorial Art Journal, Published by the John J. Mitchell Co., New 
York. Monthly. 1873— 

Yale Review, The. New Haven, 1892 — 

Note. In the footnotes to the following pages, "Doc, Hist." stands 
for Commons and Andrews' "Documentary History of American Indus- 
trial Society"; and "Sen. Doc." for "Senate Document." 



CHAPTER I. 
History of the Tailoring Trade. 

I. Ancient and Mediaeval Times. Rise of the Trade in 
England. 

It has often been said in jest, that tailoring is the oldest 
of the mechanical occupations, inasmuch as 

"Adam himself 'twas he begun the trade, 
And for himself and Eve both aprons made."^ 

However this may be, it is certain that the trade is an 
ancient one. It is especially true of this industry, that in 
the olden times it was confined to the household. During 
the period covered by ancient history, it is probable that 
there were few persons especially trained in the making of 
garments for others, except the women and slaves of private 
households, or those attached to official or royal establish- 
ments. The rise of tailoring as a handicraft belongs dis- 
tinctively to the Middle Ages, but, since we are concerned 
mainly with its modern forms, it will be sufficient to start 
our investigation with the rise of a strictly journeymen class 
of tailors in England. 

There is some evidence to show that the rise of such a 
class occurred about the middle of the 17th Century.^ Pre- 

i"A new poem on the Ancient and loyal Society of Journeymen Tay- 
lors, etc." 1725. By Henry Nelson, Bricklayer, one of the Brethren. 
Galton, The Tailoring Trade, p. 27. 

2By this it is not meant that there were not wage-working tailors 
earlier than this, for there were, both in the gilds and outside of them, 
and some of these workers were called "journeymen." They did not. 
however, form a permanent class, inasmuch as in most cases they had 
an opportunity to rise to the standing of a master; moreover, the 
method of production was not capitalistic. 

11 



12 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

viously, it seems that wealthy customers bought their doth 
direct from wholesale clothiers, and then either took it to a 
master working-tailor^ to be made up, or had it made up 
by a tailor in their own household. The poor made their 
own garments or bought second-hand ones. In the first half 
of the 17th Century, however, there arose in London, and 
probably in other large towns, a class of shop-keeping master 
tailors, who were "capitalists" in a genuine sense.* Formerly, 
all persons recognized by law as being entitled to engage in 
the selling of garments, or making them up to order, were 
in a chartered Company. In London, for example, this Com- 
pany was called ''The Company of Merchant-Taylors of the 
City of London, and the Master Working Taylors, Freemen 
of this City, and members also of the said Company."^ As 
implied by the title, this Company included both "Master- 
Taylors" and "Merchant-Taylors." As nearly as we can in- 
terpret the language of the period, the "Master-Taylors" 
were recruited from the comparatively small number of 
journeymen who acquired the specially skilled part of the 
business, namely, the cutting-out^ ; whereas, the "Merchant- 

3 By "master working-tailor" is meant the head of a household es- 
tablishment, in which master and apprentices were associated upon 
equal social terms, 

^Galton, p. xvi. 

SGalton, p. xviii, Footnote i. The London Companies were the 
successors of the Craft Gilds, The latter had included the master- 
workmen of their respective trades. By a process of union, selling 
merchants came to be included in the Companies, Both merchants and 
master-workmen were interested in maintaining the old system of 
monopoly charters and apprenticeship. Opposed to the members of the 
Companies were merchants who did not wish to be bound by the 
charter, and journeymen who desired to work without a legal appren- 
ticeship. (See Webb,^ History of Trade Unionismi, p, 13, and note.) 
The Tailors' Companies seem to have retained their connection with 
the trade longer than usual. Thus Webb states, "By the i8th century 
the London Journeymen had lost whatever participation they may pos- 
sibly once have possessed in the Companies, which had for the most 
part already ceased to have any connection with the trades of which 
they bore the names." History of Trade Unionism, p, 13, 

6Webb, History of Trade Unionism, p, 25. 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 13 

Taylors" added to this accomplishment the business of buy- 
ing* the cloth needed for garments. We may therefore dis- 
tinguish the cloth merchant, who made no work, but simply 
sold goods; the merchant-tailor, who both sold goods and 
made work; and the master-tailor, who sold no goods, but 
made up work from goods furnished by the customer. All 
these classes, but especially the merchant and master tailors, 
regarded with indignation the rise of the new shop-keeping 
class. The master-tailors of the Company kept only one or 
two journeymen, who lived on the master's premises. The 
shop-keepers, on the other hand, frequently rented a shop in 
a fashionable neighborhood, giving long credit to their 
wealthy clients, and employing in their own workshops num- 
bers of journeymen during the busy season.^ These journey- 
men are described by Campbell in the London Tradesman 
(London, 1747), as follows:^ 

''The next class (to the foreman) is the mere working 
tailor; not one in ten of them knows how to cut out a pair 
of breeches; they are employed only to sew the seams, to 
cast the buttonholes, and prepare the work for the finisher. 
Their wages, by Act of Parliament, is 20 pence in one sea- 
son of the year, and half-a-crown the other; however a good 
hand has half-a-crown or three shillings. They are as numer- 
ous as locusts, are out of business about three or four months 
in the year, and are generally as poor as rats. The house of 
call is an ale-house, where they generally use, the landlord 
knows where to find them, and masters go there to enquire 
when they want hands. Custom has established it into a kind 
of law, that the house of call gives them credit for victuals 
and drink, while they are unemployed; this obliges the jour- 
neymen, on the other hand, to spend all the money they earn 
at this house alone. The landlord, when once he has got 

'^Webb, History of Trade Unionism, p. 26. 
8Quoted by Galton, p. 3, footnote. 



14 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

them in his debt, is sure to keep them so, and by that means 
binds the poor wretch to his house, who slaves only to en- 
rich the publican." 

As indicated by the above extract, wages were fixed by 
law and paid by the day. Hours were also fixed by law, and 
in 1 72 1 the legal working day was from six in the morning 
until nine at night, allowing half-an-hour for breakfast and 
an hour for dinner.^ 

To tell in detail the history of trade conditions in Eng- 
land after the rise of the journeymen class would take us 
too far afield. We must, however, note one matter of im- 
portance ; namely, the early existence of piece rates, and the 
opposition of the workers to this method of payment. As 
shown above, the early journeymen received a flat time-rate, 
fixed by law, the law, however, taking some account of the 
difference of seasons. The first mention of piece-work to be 
found in our references is made in connection with a strike 
in Birmingham, in 1777.^^ At this time the merchants ad- 
vertised for one hundred journeymen tailors for piece-work, 
claiming that the men could earn sixteen shillings and up- 
ward a week. This in a counter advertisement was denied 
by the men, who said that the masters were in reality at- 
tempting to get cheap labour, and that at the piece-prices 
offered it would take an extraordinary hand to earn as much 
as twelve shillings. The strike arising out of this affair 
was prolonged for some time, and there is no record of the 
final result. The essential point, however, is that the op- 
position of the men to the piece-system was on this occasion 
practically unanimous. 

By 1800 certain "friendly societies" had sprung up in the 
various trades, including that of the tailors. These organi- 

9Webb, in preface to Gallon, The Tailoring Trade, p. v. See also 
in the same work, pp. 7-8, the reprint of "An Abstract of the Master 
Taylors' Bill, etc." 

lOGalton, pp. 71-74. 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 15 

zations were often known as "clubs," and so far as published 
rules are concerned, they seem at this time to have been 
purely beneficiary. About twenty years later, however, 
(1818), we have documentary accounts of their trade rules, 
showing that they were maintaining combined activities simi- 
lar to those of present unions. Of chief interest here is the 
fact that certain sects had sprung up among the London 
Tailors' Clubs, one division being known as "Flints" and 
another as "Dungs," and that the "Dungs" accepted both 
piece and day work, whereas the "Flints" would work only 
by the day. Galton conjectures that the "Dungs" may have 
been inferior workmen, who had at times perhaps taken the 
places of better men during strikes.^ ^ However this may 
be, the acceptance of piece-work by any organized tailors 
shows a change from the Birmingham attitude in 1777. That 
piece-work was gradually coming in is also shown by certain 
documents published in 1811. The first, an address by a 
Committee of Master Tailors to the trade at large, complains 
among other things that the masters are not at liberty to 
change their men "from day work to piece-work" without 
the leave of their servants. ^^ The second, an argument on 
behalf of the journeymen against a bill brought into the 
House of Commons by the Master Tailors, recites that the 
trade has "a printed list of prices for work done by the 
piece, consisting of about 150 different items," and protests 
against the clause in the bill permitting Judges to decide 
whether or not the piece-prices constitute a "fair propor- 
tion" of day rates. ^^ Finally, we find a stray advertisement 

• 

iiGalton, p. Ixxiv. See also p. 151. The term "dung" was used 
in America as late as 1885, meaning a "scab." Thus in the following 
extract : "After ten days strike in Cheyenne against a 'dung* it was 
lost." (Secretary's report, Proceedings of the 1885 Convention of the 
Tailors' National Union of the United States, p. 7). 

i2Galton, p. 103. 

13 Galton, p. 117. 



16 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

regarding a strike in Edinburgh, 1823, in which the men 
take satirical notice of the "fair and liberal list of prices" 
offered to them by the masters.^* All these quotations show 
that piece-work, while by no means universal, was becoming 
known in the trade during the period 1 775-1825. There is 
no doubt that the masters favored it in order to adjust more 
readily their labor costs to the extreme variations in the sea- 
sons, as well as to pay in accord with skill and to encourage 
^'speeding." 

It has been intended in the foregoing sketch to outline 
briefly the rise of the journeymen tailoring trade in England, 
as well as to point out the origin of some of its peculiar 
features, such as seasonal difficulties and the beginning of 
piece-scales. We now turn to the study of the American 
trade. 

2. History of the Trade in America. 

Early History. Records show that the tailor, like the 
blacksmith and the shoemaker, is one of the pioneers among 
tradesmen, and is usually found in the vanguard of settle- 
ment. Thus we find that there was a tailor with the first 
Jamestown expedition in 1607, and six more came over dur- 
ing the following year.^^ These tailors belonged to the class 
of indentured servants; they did not, however, remain per- 
manently in this class, being enabled after a few years to 
work out or purchase their freedom. In the latter part of 
the 17th Century the system of indentures still prevailed, 
but the terms were short. ^^ Between 1660 and 1700, several 

i4Galton, p. 165. 

1 sWorks of Capt, John Smith, pp. 390, 412. Citation is given by 
Bruce in his Economic History of Virginia, V. 2, p. 471, note. 

16 "The covenants into which Luke Mathews, a tailor of Hereford, 
entered with Thomas Landon of Virginia were probably fairly repre- 
sentative ; Mathews bound himself to serve Latndon for a period of 
two years, his term to begin when he reached the Colony ; the remunera- 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 17 

tailors became the owners of large tracts of land, one as 
large as a thousand acres.^"^ This explains in a large measure 
the scarcity of working tradesmen in the colonies; as fast 
as they were able they became freemen and citizens, and it 
was necessary continuously to import others to take their 
places. Thus in a South Carolina document of 1731 it is 
stated: ''Artificers are so scarce at present, that all sorts of 
work is very dear; Taylors, Shoemakers, Smiths, would be 
particularly acceptable."^^ By 1785 tailors seem to have 
been more plentiful ; we find a merchant of Charleston, South 
Carolina, who advertises himself as a ''Taylor from London," 
informing the public that he has recently added "several ex- 
cellent workmen" to his shop, and will be prepared to fill 
orders more promptly than before, as well as to furnish the 
English styles. ^^ 

Referring to methods of payment, the piece or at least 
the job system seems to have been begun much earlier in this 
country than in England. About the close of the 17th Century, 
the wages of a tailor in Virginia were 90 pounds of tobacco 
for making a suit, and from 40 to 60 pounds for making a 
coat.^^ A hundred years later, in Baltimore, wages were 

tlon was to be six pence a day when working for members of Landon's 
family, but when for other persons, he was to be entitled to one-half 
of the proceeds of his labor, whatever it might be." Bruce, Economic 
History of Virginia, V. 2, pp. 471-2. 

i^Bruce, Economic History of Virginia, V. 2, p. 474. 

18D0C. Hist, V. 2, p. 174. Reprinted from "A Description of the 
Province of South Carolina," Charleston, 1731. 

i9Doc. Hist., V. 2, p. 353. Reprint of advertisement from the 
"Gazette of the State of South Cairolina," Charleston, Mch, 7, 1785. 

It should be understood that the demand for custom trade in the 
Colonies was decidedly limited, the greater part of the garments worn 
being made at home. "The expensive suit of the custom tailor was 
worn only on holidays and special occasions, ancj one such suit often 
did service for a lifetime." (Pope, The Clothing Industry in New 
York, pp. 2-3). This fashionable trade, coupled with some work on 
servants' liyeries, constituted the only demand for the tailors' art. 

20Bruce, Economic History of Virginia, V. 2, p. 472. 



18 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

still reckoned by the job, and the journeymen in that city, 
by dint of strikes, had succeeded by 1805 in raising their 
pay to eight shillings and ninepence per job, and had also 
reduced the amount of a "job" by means of a system of ex- 
tras.2i 

During the first half of the 19th Century there seems to 
have been little uniformity in methods of payment, although 
it is probable that the piece system predominated. It is 
stated that in Zanesville, Ohio, in 18 19, the wages of tailors, 
''finding themselves and working fourteen or fifteen hours 
a day," were from $7.00 to $9.00 a week,^^ but it may be that 
the observer made this estimate after talking with journey- 
men about their piece-scales. Methods of payment are spoken 
of in connection with strikes in Buffalo, 1824,^^ and in Phila- 
delphia, 1827.^* In each case there is clear evidence that 
''bills of prices" or piece-scales were being employed, and in 
Philadelphia, at least, it is clear that the men were working 
in shops on the employer's premises. 

It is believed by men familiar with the present trade that 
a real "itinerant" system prevailed in this country at least 
as late as 1825. Such a system was widely known in Eng- 
land and on the continent in the early days, especially in the 
rural districts. The tailor would take his necessary tools and 
travel about the country, stopping at houses where his ser- 
vices were required, and remaining as a guest of the family 
until his work was completed. In such cases the cloth was 
ordinarily home-spun. We have endeavored to find definite 

siMcMaster, History of the People of the United States, V. 3, P- 
511. 

22Hulme's Journal, 1818-1819. Reprinted in Thwaites, Early West- 
ern Travels, V. 10, p. 75. 

23Doc. Hist., V. 4 pp. 93-95. 
24Doc. Hist., V. 4, pp. 99-264. 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 19 

references to this system in America, but thus far without 
success.^^ 

With reference to the distribution of the early tailors, we 
can only repeat what was said at the outset of this discus- 
sion, namely, that they followed the progress of settlement, 
and were always among the first on the ground. In Pitts- 
burgh in 1807 there were thirteen tailor shops,^^ and in Lex- 
ington, Kentucky, about the same time, there were ten shops, 
employing forty-seven journeymen and apprentices.^^ Cin- 
cinnati in 1 8 19 had twenty-three shops, with eighty-three 
workmen. ^^ About 1820 tailors were coming over from 
England,^^ and were making their way to the frontier settle- 
ments, especially Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois.^^ 
By 1834 they were found in Fort Union, a fur-trading post 
on the upper Missouri,^ ^ and in 1846 we are told there were 
four tailor shops in Oregon City, in the Oregon Territory,^ ^ 
There is no doubt that the tailors were settling in many other 
localities; enough have been cited to show that they were 
closely identified with the western movement. 

25We are informed by a tailor who learned the trade in Sweden 
that the itinerant system prevailed in that country as late as 1880. 
As manufactured cloth became cheaper the itinerant system was gradu- 
ally replaced by the shop system. 

26Thwaites, Early Western Travels, V. 4, p. 247. From Cuming's 
Tour to the West. 1807- 1809. 

27Ibid., V. 4, P- 186. 

28Ibid., V. 9, p. 240. From Flint's Letters from America, 1818- 
1820. 

29lbid., V. 12, p. 155. From Welby's English Settlements, 1819- 
1820. 

soibid., V. 4, P- 247; V. 10, pp. 58, 75, 135, 271; V. 12, p. 195; V. 
27, p. 54. From various writers on early western travels. 

3ilbid., V. 22, p. 378, note. From Maximilian's Travels, 1832-1834. 

32Ibid., V. 30, p. 296. From Palmer's Journal, 1845- 1846. 



20 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

Rise of the Ready-Made Industry. 

The fact of foremost importance in the history of the 
garment industry after 1800 is the rise of the manufacture 
of cheap clothing for the market. This movement agrees in 
point of time with the development of a middle class, who 
demanded better clothing than a workingman's suit, but were 
still unable to pay for the expensive custom suit. The poorer 
classes for a considerable period had depended largely on 
second-hand clothing, especially in England ; but even these 
found a use for the coarser grades of new clothing.^^ The 
garment-working industry may therefore be regarded pri- 
marily as a result of the economic demand for cheaper ap- 
parel. 

We are accustomed to associate the ready-made industry 
with the introduction of machinery, and it is true that the 
greatest development has taken place since the invention of 
the sewing-machine in 1846.^^ The industry, however, was 
known long before this date. There is evidence that as early 
as 1 68 1 master tailors of London were making up garments 
in advance of the demand.^ ^ The first ready-made clothing 
in America, according to Miss Sumner, consisted of shirts 
for the Indians and men's breeches, which were made in 1725 
by a woman in Northfield, Massachusetts.^^ A little later 
establishments grew up to make clothing for sailors and for 
southern negroes. It was, however, some years before any 
considerable demand arose for ready-made clothing. When 
this demand did come, the custom trade was the first to at- 
tempt to supply it. Master tailors began to employ their 

33 Pope, The Clothing Industry in New York, pp. 7-9. 

34Ibid., p. 12. 

ssGalton, The Tailoring Trade, p. xvii. 

36 Sen. Doc. 645, V. 9: History of Women in Industry in the United 
States, p. 120. (This work will be referred to hereafter simply as 
"Sen. Doc. 645, V. 9"). 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 21 

journeymen during the slack season making up left-over 
cloth, and eventually on raw material purchased expressly 
for this purpose.^"^ By 1835, the manufacture of ready-made 
clothing was well established. However, ''it was practically 
confined to men's and boys' clothing of the cheaper grades 
and to shirts, and the quantities manufactured were necessar- 
ily small, the work being all done by hand."^^ 

The introduction of the sewing-machine brought about 
a revolution in the ready-made industry. The quantity pro- 
duced increased enormously, and the quality gradually be- 
came such as to present a real competition to the custom work. 
In the endeavor to meet this, merchant tailors insisted upon 
cheaper production, and as a result the journeymen began 
taking work to their homes, where they could be assisted 
by their wives and daughters on the machine processes. 
Gradually other women took up the trade, becoming either 
tailors' helpers, or workers on their own account. Thus, the 
making of trousers and vests came to be largely carried on 
by women.^^ 

The Civil War demand had a great influence on the cloth- 
ing industry, especially in the ready-made branch. For a 
discussion of this period, as well as of the later development 
of the ready-made industry, the reader is referred to studies 
w^hich deal in the main with that industry alone. ^^ We have 
pursued the inquiry only far enough to notice the origin of 
the leading features of custom work. By 1865 this trade 

s^Pope, The Clothing Industry in New York, pp. 11-12. 

38Sumner, Sen. Doc. 645, V. 9, pp. 121-122. 

39Pope, The Clothing Industry in New York, p. 13. 

40The following works are of value for this purpose, some of which 
have already been cited : Pope, The Clothing Industry in New York ; Sum- 
ner, History of Women in Industry in the United States, Sen. Doc. 
645, V. 9; Andrews and Bliss, History of Women in Trade Unions, 
Sen. Doc. 645, V. 10. pp. 160-172; Willett, Mabel H., The Employment 
of Women in the Clothing Trade. 



22 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

seems to have assumed much of its present form, and later 
changes have operated not so much to alter conditions in the 
industry as to limit the extent to which it is still carried on. 
The follow^ing chapter will consider the present status of 
the trade and the effect of the constant cheapening of pro- 
duction. 



CHAPTER 11. 

Pri:se:nt Conditions in the: Taii^oring Trade in 

America.*^ 

I. Character of Establishments and Methods of Production. 

Before considering present conditions in the tailoring 
trade, it is necessary to define "custom tailoring." The term 
"tailoring," as colloquially used, is sometimes held to include 
all work upon men's, women's, and children's suits. "Cus- 
tom tailoring," however, applies only to the making of cloth- 
ing to the order and measure of each individual customer; 
and as the term is used in this paper it applies to men's 
clothing only. This is in accord with the most common usage, 
which applies the term "garment working" to the ready-made 
industry, and "ladies' tailoring" or "dress-making" to cus- 
tom work for women. 

There are few industries which present the same variety 
and complexity in types of production as does the garment 
industry. This fact is as true of the custom branch as of 
any other division of the trade. Here may be found every 
gradation, from the lone "entrepreneur," representing in his 
own person the entire establishment, to the large and well- 
equipped store on Fifth Avenue. In describing these grada- 
tions it seems best to begin with the smaller establishments. 

41A considerable portion of the material in this chapter is based 
upon correspondence and interviews with practical tailors, and upon 
the writer's own experience. Citations of authorities will not, there- 
fore, be found as numerous as elsewhere in the thesis. Statements 
with reference to technicalities in the trade, where not supported by 
citations, have been revised with the aid of the officers of the Jour- 
neymen Tailors' Union of America. 

23 



24 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

It is not uncommon in the small towns, and on the less 
prosperous streets of our larger cities, to find a tailor who, 
in the slang of the trade, is "running a tack." This means 
that he has a small shop, either at home or in a store building, 
and takes orders for suits, which he cuts and finishes en- 
tirely by his own labor. This, of course, stands for the min- 
imum so far as size of establishment is concerned. 

The "tack" could be enlarged by enlisting the tailor's 
family, or by the employment of one or more "helpers" to 
do the plain work and machine sewing. The next step toward 
increasing the scope of the business would be the employment 
of one or more additional journeymen. This would raise 
the tailor to the rank of a "boss," and on his stationery and 
in the newspaper he would advertise himself as a "merchant 
tailor." The journeymen might or might not employ helpers. 
The boss would continue to take orders and to do his own 
cutting. These "small shops," or "medium shops," employ- 
ing from one to a dozen or fifteen workmen, are the typical 
establishments of many of the smaller cities; they are also 
numerous in the less fashionable districts of the metropolis. 
If business warranted the boss could hire a cutter, and de- 
vote his own attention to the management. In the shops of 
this type the journeymen include coatmakers, vestmakers, 
and trousers-makers, each having learned some particular 
branch of the trade, and having frequently a man or woman 
helper. Apprentices in the true sense are found occasionally, 
being boys or girls aiming to become skilled journeymen; but 
there are many helpers, mistaken for apprentices by out- 
siders, who do not expect to learn the more difficult parts 
of the trade, and who regard their employment as being in 
many ways similar to factory work. In addition, there is a 
"bushelman" or repair man employed, who is paid by the 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 25 

week, and has about the same wage and quaHfications as a 
skilled journeyman.^^ 

Referring more concretely to the shops, it may be said 
that they are often on the same floor with the employer's 
store, in which case, if situated at the back of the store, they 
are called *'back-shops." In other cases, they are found on 
an upper floor of the store building, or quite often in a differ- 
ent building. The essentials of a good shop are light and 
cleanliness. In these respects, of course, all degrees can be 
found, but most of the shops furnished by the bosses for 
union men are reasonably decent. They are usually found 
over-looking streets and alley-ways, from which the necessary 
light can be had, although a few shops in the downtown dis- 
tricts of large cities are artificially lighted. In the daylight 
shops the benches are arranged near the windows, and here 
the tailor squats in his traditional position, plying his needle. 
His other equipment and tools are thimble, chalk and tape, 
shears, "goose" or smoothing iron, pressing board, and sew- 

42As a sample of the distribution of workmen among the various 
branches of the trade the following statement is given, showing the 
present composition of the Tailors' Union in Kansas City, Missouri, 
including 223 persons working at the trade. The figures are from 
the local secretary of the union : 







Per cent of 


Trade 


Number. 


total working force. 


Coatmakers 


138 


62.0 


Vestmakers 


27 


12.1 


Pantsmakers 


23 


10.3 


Helpers 


19 


8.5 


Bushelmen 


16 


7.1 



Total 223 loo.o 

Estimates given by three officers of the National Tailors' Union, as 
to the probable distribution of all union tailors in the United States 
and Canada among the various branches of the trade, have been aver- 
aged, with the following result: 

Trade. Per cent of total. 
Coatmakers 56.0 

Vestmakers 16.2 

Pantsmakers 19.5 

Bushelmen, helpers, 

and weekly men 8.3 



26 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

ing machine. The boss or cutter has a broad cutting-table, 
which is often in the main store-room. It will be seen that 
the furnishing of a shop is simple, and does not require a 
large outlay of capital. Usually the merchant tailor has 
risen from the ranks of the journeymen, and the most suc- 
cessful merchants, with the exception perhaps of a few part- 
ners who uphold the social end of the business in the larger 
cities, are recruited in this way. 

The fine stores, catering to fashionable trade in the larger 
cities, frequently employ salesmen and cutters, in addition 
to the members of the firm. The journeymen employed by 
these stores are of the same type as those that have been 
described, but, as a rule, they work in private shops away 
from the store building, these shops being furnished at the 
tailors' own expense. The following list includes the finest 
stores in several large cities. These stores sell suits ranging 
in price from $50 to $125, and employ the best workers ob- 
tainable, paying usually a little more than the average current 
wages. 

Firm. Locality. 

Dunn Boston 

Bell, James W. New York 

Rock, Matthew New lYork 

Muehler & Company Philadelphia 

Bullock & Jones San Francisco 

Stevenson, Harry Chicago 

Berger, Harry Chicago 

De Lang & Company Chicago*^ 

43A member of the tailors' union in Chicago has furnished the 
writer with statistics regarding the three firms in that city, and this 
information is herewith submitted. 

Salesmen. Journeymen. 

Firm. (Including Cutters and (Including Helpers. 

firm) Trimmers. Bushelmen) 

Stevenson, H. 4 5 85 8-10 

Berger, H. 4 5 72 7-10 

De Lang & Co. 2 2 34 2 

It should be noted that the helpers are paid by the journeymen, 
and not directly by the merchant tailor. 

The Bell store in New York employs about 200 persons, distributed 
as to occupation in about the same proportion as in the Chicago shops. 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 27 

We have hitherto spoken of the typical custom tailoring 
shop, furnished by the employer, in which most of the jour- 
neymen are specialists and piece-workers. It must, how- 
ever, be understood, that while probably more than half of 
the custom work of America is made in this type of shop, 
there are wide deviations from the type, some of these ex- 
ceptions being in the nature of survivals from former con- 
ditions, others representing tendencies of a transitional char- 
acter. We shall first speak of the survivals. 

Home Work. 

The origin of home work, following the introduction of 
the sewing machine, has already been discussed. It is un- 
fortunately true that such work still prevails in the custom 
trade, as well as in the ready-made clothing industry. Two 
types of home industry may be distinguished; work ob- 
tained directly from one or more merchants, and work ob- 
tained from contractors or piece-masters. 

It is sometimes true that a journeyman working at home 
will take all of his work from a single employer. Most home 
workers, however, take work from any employer who may 
happen to need help, thus working at different times, or even 
at the same time, for several stores. In the vest and trousers 
trade especially, contractors or ''piece-masters" are often 
found, who make no work themselves, but contract with em- 
ployers to get the work done, and then give it out to journey- 
men to be made, frequently in the tailors' homes. A "piece- 
master" may employ as many as five or six men to do the 
skilled work and perhaps fifty girls as finishers,^^ or from 

44Where so large a number of workers are employed by the con- 
tractor, he usually operates a shop, the work being mainly either for 
the cheap custom trade or for special order trade. The contract system 
is found in nearly every branch of the clothing trade. Even some of 
the better class of work, usually made in regular custom shops, is 
handled by contractors. It is difficult to trace all the variations of 
the trade, only a few of which have been noted here. 



28 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

that number down to eight or ten workers all told. This is 
a genuine ''sweating" system, and is so called in the trade. 
Home workers seldom employ outside helpers, but are often 
assisted by members of their own families^ 

Private Shops. 

Between the employer's shop and the home shop lies the 
"private shop." It should be noted here that an employer's 
shop is called a "free shop" when furnished to the journey- 
men free of rent or charges. In a few employers' shops 
"seat-rent" is charged to the journeymen. The practice, 
however, of paying for seat-room is more usual in "private 
shops." A journeyman will rent a shop and then sublet seat- 
room to his fellow- workers at a rate varying from 75 cents 
to $1.50 a week for skilled workers and 50 cents to $1.00 
for helpers. This system is adopted by journeymen who 
want to work for several stores, but who do not want to 
work at home, or who have no home. There are perhaps 
2000 tailors in New York City in private shops, and these 
shops are found in many other large cities. Occasionally, 
these shops are run on a cooperative plan, but more often 
sublet as described. 

The diverse conditions that may prevail in a single town 
are well illustrated by a report of an organizer of the Tail- 
ors' Union, who was traveling in Indiana in 1896. This 
report shows that in the town of Kokomo, having a popula- 
tion at that time of about 9000, the organizer found "four 
men working single-handed;^^ two week hands with one 
helper; one man working at home with his wife and one 
helper; one boss making coats with a helper who also makes 
vests ; one pantmaker with one and sometimes two helpers. "^^ 

We may now pass to what have been termed "transi- 

45Without helpers. 

46J. W. DeFord, in Tailor, March, 1896, p. 4. 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 29 

tional" phases. These are found in establishments employing 
methods similar to those in the ready-made industry, and in 
establishments handling both custom and ready-made cloth- 
ing. Ready-made clothing is made up mainly by machine 
workers, either at home or in factories. By this means cloth- 
ing has been so much cheapened that old-line custom tailor- 
ing is in constant danger of extinction. This fact has 
obliged merchant tailors and designers to seek ways and 
means of meeting this competition, and the favorite plan has 
been to adopt systems of making clothing to measure, which 
at the same time will employ a finer subdivision of labor and 
a wider use of machinery. Such systems are variously known 
as "factory," ''sectional," or "team" systems, and serve as 
good illustrations of the tendency toward cheapening and 
specialization which is today found in most industries. 

Under the head of "factory shops," the larger establish- 
ments will be first discussed. These establishments make 
work for customers in their own city, and also for a consid- 
erable surrounding territory.^'^ Local agents and traveling 
salesmen carry samples, and take the measures of individual 
customers. The specifications are then sent to the head es- 
tablishment and turned over to the cutter, who makes the 
pattern. An employee called the "chopper"' then takes the 
pattern and cuts the goods. The trimmings are put in by 
the "trimmer," and then the job is sent to the factory de- 
partment. Here, a "marker" chalks the pockets, button-holes, 
and some of the rougher seams. The work then goes through 
a number of hands, ending finally with the presser.^^ 

^^The writer has a letter from the Commissioner of Labor of 
Oklahoma, stating that garments from the factory shops of Chicago 
and St. Louis are sold in his state. In fact, this trade extends to 
the Pacific coast. 

480ne of the largest "factory shops" now in operation is that of 
Kahn & Co., Indianapolis. This shop employs several hundred people, 
and handles work for customers throughout the middle west. Similar 
shops are found in New York, Philadelphia, Boston, St. Louis, Chi- 



30 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

A "sectional" or "team" shop is held by its advocates 
to be essentially different from a factory shop. The follow- 
ing quotation is from a well-known Chicago designer and 
teacher of cutting:*^ "Section work is by no means factory 
work and is as different as day is from night. Section work 
means that five or six persons work together in one group, 
each devoting his energy and ability to the development of 
a different part of the garment. For example, a section of 
six would be constituted as follows : 

No. I. Apprentice, Junior. Duties: rough padding, 
sewing and all-round assistance. 

No. 2. Apprentice, Senior. Duties : pockets, linings, 
individual pressing. 

No. 3. Tailor, Junior. Duties: basting under canvas, 
linings, basting on stay tapes, etc; individual pressing and 
pressing for No. i. 

No. 4. Tailor, Senior. Duties : Edges, buttonholes, 
pressing off, etc. 

No. 5 Directing foreman, sleeve hanger, collar and 
shoulder adjuster, etc. 

No. 6. Girl for plain sewing." 

The same writer believes that sectional work is the hope 
of the trade, and that it will be gradually adopted for high- 

cago, Cleveland, San Francisco, and Seattle. The same system pre- 
vails in several smaller cities, though not on so large a scale. The 
firm of Gray & Graham in Dallas, Texas, formerly a typical old-line 
shop, employing about forty journeymen, changed their system to the 
factory plan a few years ago. Previous to the change they were pay- 
ing a good piece-scale; coats $8.00 and upward, pants $2.75 and upward, 
vests $2.50 and upward. A time scale is now employed with wages 
ranging from $3.00 to $15.00 a week. About fifty persons are employed 
in the operating department. Only about four of these are strictly 
skilled workers, the balance being operatives who have learned special- 
ized parts of the work, and who could not be classed as old-line jour- 
neymen. It should be noted that the change to the "factory" system 
usually involves a change from piece- rates to time-rates for all workers 
employed. 

49F, T. Croonborg, in Tailor, Dec, 191 1, p. 5. Reprint of address 
to Philadelphia and Boston Merchant Tailors. 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 31 

class merchant tailoring; in fact, he states, many merchants 
are already using this plan. In this opinion many of the 
rising generation of merchants concur; it is significant, how- 
ever, that the older men still cling to the individual system. 
At a Merchant Tailors' Convention in Washington, D. C, 
February, 1911, Mr. Edwin N. Doll, a well known New 
York tailor and former officer of Merchants' Associations, 
spoke strongly in favor of the old system of skilled individ- 
ual work and hand-sewing. In this matter, he was not in 
agreement with the more "progressive" spirits in the Con- 
vention, and it seems probable that the sectional system in 
some form is destined to find increasing favor. ^"^ 

The team described by Mr. Croonborg would be suitable 
for a shop of considerable size. He suggests that there 
might be as many as fifteen or eighteen sections working 
on one floor. A modified team system, however, may be 
found in many smaller shops. For example, it is quite usual 
to find in New England towns a shop with one journeyman 
on the bench, who marks and plans the work, and employs 
in addition two or three sewing girls, a machine operator and 
a pressman. Between this kind of a shop and the largest 
team shops there are, of course, many gradations. Occasion 
will be found, in the section on wage-payment, Chapter 4, 
to speak of ''weekly shops," employing some "old-line" jour- 
neymen, but paying them by the week, and of "mixed shops," 
containing both weekly workers and piece-workers. 

We now turn to the form of production which is the 
most distinctly transitional of all, namely, the "special or- 
der." Here, as in the case of the systems already described, 
the local agent or the traveling salesman takes the measure 
of the customer and his choice of samples. However, in- 
stead of sending it to a shop especially adapted for custom 
work, he sends it to a regular garment factory, usually in a 

50 Sartorial Art Journal, April, 191 1, p. 450. 



32 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

large city, where it is made up by operatives of the same 
type as those who manufacture the ready-made. The agencies 
vary in type, some being conducted by local special-order 
stores, and some by ready-made stores that maintain a special- 
order department. This type of trade is sold in all communi- 
ties; an especially good field is found in the small towns 
and the rural districts, where agents sell suits to measure 
practically as cheap as the ready-made. The term "special- 
order" is rather loosely employed, but in its most proper use 
refers to this "garment- working to measure" which we have 
just described. 

Before leaving the subject of the character of establish- 
ments, mention should be made of the pressing, cleaning, and 
repairing shops, which often employ a journeyman tailor, 
and also of the repair and alteration department of ready- 
made clothing stores, where the employee is called a bushel- 
man, and requires considerable skill, being distinctively a 
tailor and not a garment-worker. 

2. Seasons. 

It is evident from the nature of the tailoring trade that 
it is profoundly affected by the seasons. Few industries de- 
pend so strongly upon climatic conditions as does that of 
clothing. To give the exact boundaries of the seasons for 
the whole continent is of course impossible; they vary from 
place to place and from year to year. In the writer's own 
locality, the North Central States, the distinctly busy seasons 
are the spring and fall. The following table shows in gen- 
eral the trade calendar for this region : 

January Poor 

February Very poor 

March "Picking up" 

April Good 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 33 



May 


Good 


June 


Fair 


July 


Poor 


August 


Very poor 


September 


Fair 


October 


Good 


November 


Good 


December 


Fair 



The variations are very wide, and as a result practically 
all the evils of "seasonal" trades are rampant in this one; 
long hours and crowded work in some periods, and in other 
periods virtually none. The number of hours that a tailor 
will put in during the rush reason is limited only by his en- 
durance. Twenty-four hours on a stretch is not unknown, 
and twelve to eighteen hours is very common. 

3. Territorial Aspects. 

With reference to territorial aspects of the industry, 
climate of course has its influence, determining the seasons 
and the kind of clothing in demand. In addition, there are 
other matters of importance in connection with the terri- 
torial features of the trade. For purposes of discussion a 
broad classification is adopted, as follows: (i) East; (2) 
South; (3) North Central and Middle West; (4) Moun- 
tain and Pacific; (5) Canada. 

I . East. 

With regard to the East, meaning principally the New 
England and Middle Atlantic States, it may be said that the 
widest contrasts exist. Here are found some of the finest 
tailoring stores in America; here, again, are to be seen the 
worst consequences of unrestricted immigration and of sweat- 
ing. The system prevalent in the smaller New England 



34 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

towns has already been described; the larger cities are not 
different, except that the "piece-masters" handle more work 
apd employ more help, and not so much skilled labor in 
proportion. There is a general tendency in the large cities, 
like New York, Boston, Philadelphia, Washington and Balti- 
more, for the skilled tailors to enter the contracting business, 
or at least to employ a number of helpers, and even the finer 
garments are made largely in rented shops or in the tailors' 
homes. The journeymen of these cities include numbers of 
Italians and Jews, who are often content apparently to raise 
their earnings by indefinitely long hours, rather than by in- 
sisting on better rates. In formier years the Irish, German 
and Swedish tailors predominated, but in later times they 
have been rapidly replaced. 

2. South. 

In the South, as would be expected, the heavier garments, 
such as winter suits and overcoats, are not made to the 
same extent as elsewhere. In the warmer states much of the 
trade is for tourists, and varies with the winter-resort sea- 
sons. Many tailors, who are without home ties, and are 
sometimes known as ''birds of passage," follow the trade, 
entering the Southern cities during the good season, and 
traveling elsewhere during other seasons. ^^ There are many 
English speaking tailors in the South, including some ne- 
groes. Good stores are found in Atlanta, New Orleans, 
Charleston, and other leading cities. Free shops are prac- 
tically universal. Some Mexican tailors are found in Texas 
and other states near the border. ^^ With the exception of 

siThe Secretary of the Tailors' Union in Hot Springs. Ark., re- 
ports as follows : "Few men work here one year, as this is different 
from other towns, being a health resort. They only stay a few months." 

52It is stated by a member of the San Antonio Union that helpers 
in that locality are mostly Mexicans, who spend their winters in the 
cities, working at comparatively low wages, and then work in the coun- 
try at farm work during the summer. 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 35 

the above points there is little of special interest connected 
with the trade in the South. 

3. North Central and Middle West. 

Conditions of immigration in the large cities of this 
section are somewhat similar to the East, though not so 
aggravated. Numbers of Italian and Jewish tailors are 
found ; but also many Germans and Scandinavians, especially 
in Chicago and Minneapolis. Buffalo and Cleveland contain 
many Poles and Bohemians. ^^ A characteristic of the whole 
region is the wide range of territory covered by the factory 
and special order business. The central plants are located 
chiefly in Cleveland, Cincinnati, Chicago, Indianapolis, and 
St. Louis, and in some of the smaller towns in the central 
and west central states the old style tailoring business has 
been virtually wiped out. Nearly all cities of considerable 
size have still some fine merchant tailoring stores, but all 
have been affected by the new systems, and by the continuous 
improvement of ready-made clothing. 

4. Mountain and Pacific. 

In these districts, numbers of Italians are found, es- 
pecially in San Francisco. The changes brought by factory 
work continue, but now under the influence largely of Port- 
land, Seattle, San Francisco and Los Angeles. These cities, 
like those in the other sections, show all gradations as re- 
gards the quality of the trade. The movement for modern 
or "sectional" methods seem unusually strong in Seattle, and 
is not opposed by the journeymen to the same extent as in 

53lt is the opinion of Secretary Brais of the National Tailors' 
Union that when the whole country is considered, the leading nationali- 
ties among union tailors stand in the following order as to number : 
(i) Scandinavians, (2) Germans, (3) Hungarians and Austrians, (4) 
British and Americans (including Canadians, Scotch, Irish, Welsh"), (5) 
Finns and Russians, (6) Italians. The Hebrews are not listed as a 
separate nationality, as they come from several countries. 



86 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

the East. The question of Japanese and Chinese labor, so 
prominent in some trades, seems scarcely to affect the tail- 
ors. Trade conditions in general share the remarkable pros- 
perity of western communities; this is especially true in 
Oregon, Washington and California. 

5. Canada.^^ 

In the Canadian cities tailors are more numerous in pro- 
portion to the population than in the States. This in the 
main is for two reasons: (i) The changes in systems of 
production have not proceeded so far in Canada, and there is 
more of the old-line custom work being done. (2) The cus- 
tom trade is better than in the States for the reason that 
there is no tariff on imported cloth, and suits can be sold 
cheaper. ^^ The Canada tailors are not so migratory as those 
in the States. In many cases they settle for life in a given 
community, and often become prosperous citizens. The lead- 
ing nationalities are English, Irish, Scotch and French Cana- 
dian. A high class of trade is made in Canada; the Ameri- 
can styles hold sway, and Canadian merchants belong to the 
same Associations as Americans. At a Merchants' Conven- 
tion and style show held in Toronto several years ago, the 
prize for a single garment was awarded to a Prince Albert 
coat made in Hamilton, Ontario. Methods of production are 
similar to those in the States, except that in the States pants 
and vests are made almost exclusively by men with women 
helpers, whereas in Canada ninety per cent of this kind of 
work is made by women. There are also a number of skilled 
coatmakers in Canada who are women, and earn the same 
piece-rates as the men. 

54A considerable part of the information given here has been fur- 
nished by Mr. Hugh Robinson, Canadian organizer for the Journeymen 
Tailors' Union of America. 

''>5It is the belief of an officer of the National Tailors' Union that 
a suit which sells for $40 in the States could be sold for $25 in Can- 
ada, on account of the difference in the tariff. 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 37 

Concluding Note, Territorial Aspects. With reference to 
working conditions and union organizations in the various 
sections, the reader is referred to the tables in Chapter 4, 
which contain reports from seventy-three cities containing 
tailors' unions. Matter of interest also will be found in the 
notes to these tables. 

(4) Prices and Customers. 

No discussion of a trade would be complete without some 
mention of customers and prices. Custom tailoring of the 
better grade is distinctively a luxury, and the rich or well- 
to-do classes constitute upon the whole its principal patrons. 
The greater part of the trade is made for business men and 
professional men in cities. There is little expensive tailor- 
ing done for the agricultural classes.; the farmers usually 
patronize the special order or the ready-made. The same 
is true of the laboring classes as a whole, although a custom 
suit is occasionally bought by the better paid tradesmen in 
the cities. 

In speaking of the fine stores of the country brief men- 
tion was made of the prices paid for suits by customers of 
these stores. For high, low and average prices in union 
stores all over the country, the reader is referred to the 
tables in Chapter 4. 

(5) Concluding Note. 

It has not been attempted in the foregoing outline to 
describe the tailoring trade in detail. Such a task would re- 
quire a volume by itself. The aim has been primarily to 
make clear the broad general features of the trade, and es- 
pecially those that are essential to an understanding of or- 
ganized movements among the tailors, to the study of which 
the writer's further efforts are to be directed. 



CHAPTER 3. 

History 0^ Taii^ors' Unions in Engi^and and America. 

1721-1887. 

I. Eari,y Engijsh Unions. 

In Chapter i a brief account was given of the rise of a 
class of journeymen tailors in England. We must now in- 
quire into the history of early combinations in the trade. 

It is generally admitted by economists that the trade 
unions are not the lineal descendants of the gilds, but are 
rather to be regarded as simply one of the consequences of 
the varying conditions that followed the breakdown of the 
mediaeval system. Continuous associations or unions in the 
modern sense did not appear until the divorce of the worker 
from the ownership of the means of production. This state- 
ment is strengthened by the fact that the first combinations 
of a permanent character are contemporary with the rise of 
a capitalist class. The rise of such a class in the tailoring 
trade, as has been noted, occurred between 1650' and 1725. 
To this period we turn, therefore, for the first trade unions 
of tailors. 

It is agreed by Webb and Galton, the writers who have 
made the most careful study of the trade in England, that 
the first organization of tailors that can justly be termed a 
trade union was the combination entered into by the tailors 
of London and Westminster in the year 1721.^^ Our at- 
tention is called to this combination by a complaint of the 
masters to Parliament, which is found in the Journal of the 

56 Webb, History of Trade Unionism, p. 38; p. 39 (note). Galton, 
The Tailoring Trade, p. xiv. 

38 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 39 

House of Commons for that year. It is believed by Mr. 
Galton that if combinations of tailors had existed earlier 
than this, mention would be found in the House Journals, 
for it was seldom during this period that the masters in any 
industry failed to report their grievances to Parliament. No 
such mention, however, is found. Moreover, there is no 
reference to combinations in the ''hand-books" which were 
supplied by master tailors to journeymen, containing trade 
maxims and instructions. In view of these facts we may 
accept 1 72 1 as the date of the first ''Journeymen Tailors' 
Union," at least so far as our present information extends. 

In connection with this combination, it is interesting to 
read a part of the merchant tailors' petition, which we quote 
herewith : 

"The Journeymen Taylors in and about the cities of 
London and Westminster, to the number of seven thousand 
and upwards, have lately entered into a combination to raise 
their wages, and leave off working an hour sooner than they 
used to do; and for the better carrying on of their design, 
have subscribed their respective names in books prepared for 
that purpose, at the several houses of call or resort, (being 
publick-houses in and about London and Westminster), where 
they use; and collect several considerable sums of money 
to defend any prosecutions against them. 

"At this time, there are but few of them come to work 
at all, and most of those that do, insist upon, and have, 
twelve shillings and nine-pence per week (instead of ten 
shillings and nine-pence per week, the usual wages), and 
leave off work at eight of the clock at night (instead of nine, 
their usual hour, time out of mind), and very great numbers 
of them go loitering about the town, and seduce and corrupt 
all they can meet; to the great hindrance and prejudice of 
trade 

"This combination of the Journeymen Taylors is and may 



40 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

be attended with many very ill consequences; inasmuch as 
the publick is deprived of the benefit of the labour of a con- 
siderable number of the subjects of this kingdom, and the 
families of several of these journeymen thereby impover- 
ished, and likely to become a charge and burthen to the pub- 
lick; and the very persons themselves who are under this 
unlawful combination, choosing rather to live in idleness, 
than to work at their usual rates and hours, will not only 
become useless and burthensome, but also very dangerous 
to the publick; and are of very ill example to journeymen 
in all other trades; as is sufficiently seen in the Journeymen 
Curriers, Smiths, Farriers, Sail-makers, Coach-makers, and 
artificers of divers other arts and mysteries, who have actually 
entered into confederacies of the like nature; and the Jour- 
neymen Carpenters, Bricklayers, and Joyners have taken 
some steps for that purpose, and only wait to see the event 
of others."^''' 

In reply to this petition, the Journeymen presented argu- 
ments by counsel against the bill desired by the merchants. 
The net result of the whole affair was the passage by Parlia- 
ment, June 7, 1 72 1, of an Act (7th George I), entitled, "An 
Act for regulating the Journeymen Taylors within the 
Weekly Bills of Mortality."^^ The main provisions of this 
Act were: (i) Combinations to raise wages were forbidden, 
on pain of imprisonment. (2) Wages and hours were es- 
tablished and penalties set for violation of the schedule by 
either masters or journeymen. P'rovision was made for the 
Justices of the Peace at their quarter-sessions to revise the 
schedules if necessary. By the Act as passed hours were 

57From "The Case of the Master Taylors, etc." Quoted by Galton, 
pp. 1-3- 

58"Weekly Bills of Mortality" refers to parishes or districts out- 
lined for administrative purposes during the plague of 1665, The term 
here simply defines the jurisdiction of a part of London and West- 
minster. The full text of the Act, together with the main arguments 
and petitions on each side, may be found in Galton, pp. 1-22. 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 41 

to be from 6 a. m. to 8 p. m., with one-half hour off for 
breakfast and one hour for dinner. Wages from the 25th 
of March to the 24th of June were to be 2 shiUings a day; 
for other seasons is. 8d. Journeymen were forbidden to 
refuse work at these rates, unless for some ''reasonable or 
sufficient" cause. By this law the tailors secured a slight 
improvement in their condition, but were prevented from 
continuing their combination openly. It is probable, however, 
that it was still maintained in secret. 

In the same year, 1721, a legal prosecution is recorded 
under the caption, ''The King v. the Journeymen Tailors of 
Cambridge," in which "One Wise, and several other jour- 
ney men-taylors, of or in the town of Cambridge, were in- 
dicted for a conspiracy among themselves to raise their 
wages, and were found guilty. "^^ The proceedings in this 
case are somewhat obscure, and it is a question as to just 
what law was applied.^^ It is of interest, however, as show- 
ing that the movement to organize was not confined to the 
metropolis. 

It is not our purpose to follow in detail the entire history 
of the labor movement among the English tailors. It is de- 
sired, however, to bridge the gap between the associations 
of 1 72 1 and the beginning of the movement in America, 
which took place in the early part of the 19th Century. For 
the details of this period the reader is referred to Mr. Galton's 
excellent monograph on The Tailoring Trade.^^ There was 
no very considerable interval during which there were not 
disturbances among the tailors, and many of these disturb- 
ances were widespread, involving in one case as many as 
15,000 journeymen.^^ As long as the system of legal regu- 

59Galton, p. 23. 

60Webb, History of Trade Unionism, p. 61, note. 

61 An outline of the history of English unions, based upon Mr. 
Galton's work, is given in the appendix to this chapter. 

62Galton, p. XXX. 



42 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

lation prevailed, the tailors were able to secure some ad- 
vances in wages from the Court of Quarter-Sessions. Tow- 
ard the end of the i8th Century, however, the conflict of 
interests and demands among the master tailors themselves 
tended to confuse Parliament, and to prevent definite action 
upon proposed laws regulating the trade. Meanwhile both 
masters and journeymen were evading the laws, and the 
workmen were coming to depend more upon strikes to secure 
their demands. This effort was handicapped by the general 
Combination Acts of 1799- 1800, and even after the repeal 
of these Acts in 1824 and 1825, the tailors' ''clubs" found 
it very difficult to cope with the masters. Attempts by the 
journeymen to conduct extensive strikes in London and Man- 
chester in 1834 were complete failures, due in part to the 
employment of women. After this date conditions changed 
rapidly. The old workmen's clubs were breaking up in all 
trades, and the period was characterized by premature ef- 
forts at national organization and general strikes, led largely 
by Robert Owen. There is found here a convenient point 
at which to turn to the American movement, with which our 
further inquiry is to be mainly occupied. 

2. Eari,y Unions in America. 

It is obviously impossible, without access to old news- 
papers, journals, and union records of the period, to give 
an exhaustive account of tailors' organizations and strikes in 
America. The writer has been obliged to rely largely upon 
scattered and miscellaneous sources, and it is not claimed 
that the study here submitted is complete. It may, however, 
serve in some measure to illustrate the history and conditions 
of the tailors during the past century. 

Colonial Period, i6o'j-i'jj6. In Chapter i a few refer- 
ences were made to the tailoring trade in the Colonies. The 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 43 

union movement does not, however, really begin in any trade 
until practically the close of the Colonial Period. 

1^/6-1820. The earliest American trade union, accord- 
ing to Professor Commons, was the Federal Society of 
Journeymen Cordwainers, organized in Philadelphia in 1794. 
If this be accepted, the tailors were not far behind, for they 
were striking in Baltimore in 1795, and are said to have had 
a society in that city for some time previous. There was 
another strike in the same city in 1805.^^ By the year 1806 
at least three additional unions had been organized — Phila- 
delphia, New York and Boston.^* There was a strike in 
New York in 18 19 to prevent the employment of women. ^^ 
It seems probable, however, that the societies were not as 
yet upon a firm basis, and that their militant activities be- 
long to a later period. 

1820-1840. A good characterization of this period, in- 
cluding an allusion to the tailoring trade, is found in the 
following extract :^^ 

"The first period in American trade unionism begins prac- 

63 "Associations of journeymen of one trade were almost invaria- 
bly for the purpose of regulating wages. When, therefore, about 1805, 
the pay of the unskilled laborer began to rise, and that of the skilled 
laborer did not, a serious of strikes was inaugurated. The journeymen 
tailors of Baltimore had one as early as 1795, and forced wages up to 
seven shillings and sixpence per job, and another in October, 1805, when 
the pay per job was fixed at eight shillings and ninepence, and a 
system of 'extras' introduced, by which what had once been four jobs 
was at last made to count as eight." McMaster, History of the Peo- 
ple of the United States, V. 3, p. 511. 

64The Philadelphia Union is stated to have been the first by the 
Colorado Commissioner of Labor, who probably obtained his informa- 
tion from officers of the Tailors' Union in Denver. The Philadelphia 
union was composed mainly of English tailors, who until its organiza- 
tion had retained their membership in English unions. (Colo., Biennial 
Report of the Bureau of Labor Statistics, 1899-1900, p. 336)- The 
New York union is vouched for by Professor Carlton, (History and 
Problems of Organized Labor, p. 17), and the Boston union by its 
present officers and members, who celebrated the Centennial in 1906. 
(Tailor, November, 1906, p. 17). 

65Sumner, Sen. Doc. 645, V. 9, p. 120. 

66Andrews and Bliss, Sen. Doc. 645, V. 10, p. 21. 



44 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

tically with the year 1825 and extends to 1840. It was a 
period of experiment, of temporary successes, of humanitar- 
ian awakenings, of new agitations. The year 1825 marked 
the beginning of the first extensive strikes for the ten-hour 
day. In 1827, in Philadelphia, the first city federation of 
labor, the Mechanics' Union of Trade Associations, was or- 
ganized. In January of the following year the first wage- 
earners paper, the Mechanics' Free Press, was established in 
Philadelphia. At the same time in the same city the first 
labor party was formed. In New York, in 1834, the first 
national trade union was organized, and for three years it 
brought together in annual convention the scattered repre- 
sentatives of organized labor, until the panic of 1837 brought 
the movement to an abrupt close. But in the meantime trade 
unionism had induced many reforms. Among the questions 
discussed were popular education, public lands, prison labor, 
immigration, and child labor. Another problem, the posi- 
tion and influence of women in industry, was already pressing 
for solution. The labor of women had become an important 
feature in industrial life, and with the beginning of the 
general trade-union movement organizations of female wage- 
workers were formed. 

''Indications of protective organization among the tail- 
oresses of New 'York are found as early as April, 1825. 
Newspapers of other cities, commenting upon this effort of 
the young women tailoresses, predicted that their meeting 
would result in a 'turn-out for higher wages.' But the novelty 
of the situation at that time was plainly reflected in the 
editorial exclamation: 'What next?'" 

The first tailors' strike in America of which we have any- 
thing like a detailed account is that which occurred in Buffalo 
in 1824. On this occasion the Journeymen were tried for 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 45 

conspiracy, and after two trials were found guilty and each 
find $2.00.^^ 

Of still greater importance was the strike and conspiracy 
trial in Philadelphia in 1827. The proceedings of the trial 
are preserved practically complete,^^ and are of great inter- 
est, as nearly all the circumstances of the original contro- 
versy, as well as the nature and rules of tailors' societies in 
Philadelphia at this time, were thoroughly reviewed in the 
trial. The original dispute arose over the price which should 
be paid for making a "lady's riding habit, of thin pongee." 
Such a garment was not mentioned in the bill of prices signed 
by the employers, who offered about six dollars for the work, 
claiming that a similar piece of work had been previously 
paid for at that rate by a merchant in the city. The Jour- 
neymen claimed that the garment now in question had called 
for certain "extras" not on the riding habit taken as a stand- 
ard by the employers, and that the price should be increased 

<5 7 Information regarding this strike is found in the Buffalo Em- 
porium, Dec. 25, 1824, The following note is based upon a quotation 
in the Documentary History of American Industrial Society, V. 4, pp. 
93-95- 

"On Monday last all the journeymen tailors of the village had 
what they call a turn out for higher wages. They presented to their 
employers bills of prices." The demands were refused. Several of 
the journeymen were brought up the next day before a court of special 
sessions and tried for conspiracy. The custom was proved to exist 
throughout the United States to stigmatize persons who worked during 
strikes. The "Flints," or loyal tailors, took care to spread informa- 
tion of such persons. 

In the argument, the prosecution contended that it was the act 
of combination that constituted the crime, and not the refusal to labor. 
The English Courts and several labor cases in New York City was 
cited. In reply counsel for the defendants claimed that conspiracy in 
such cases was not known at common law, and that it was covered by 
special statute in England, no such statute having ever been adopted 
in America. "To make the conduct of these defendants criminal," the 
speaker added, "would be contrary to the genius of our institutions and 
an abridgement of our rights." 

The first jury disagreed, but the second brought in a verdict of 
guilty, and the sentence was as noted above. 

68The Trial of Twenty- four Journeymen Tailors, charged with a 
conspiracy. Phila., 1827. Reprinted in Doc. Hist. V. 4, pp. 99-264. 



46 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

to about seven dollars. The employing firm, Ropp & Wine- 
brener, paid the, seven dollars, but at the same time notified 
the five journeymen involved that their services would no 
longer be required. These journeymen complained to fellow- 
members of their tailors' society, (there were three societies, 
all told, in the city,) and a special meeting was called "to 
take into consideration late occurrences at the shop of Robb 
& Winebrener." At this meeting it was decided to call out 
all members of the society working in the shop unless the 
discharged men were reinstated, and, in accord with this 
decision, several tailors left their work. Street quarrels 
arose, involving both bosses and men, and warrants were 
sworn out on both sides. 

In the indictment the men were charged with eight counts, 
involving mainly conspiracy to force the re-employment of 
those discharged, to extort higher wages, and to ''injure and 
oppress" workmen who were hired in place of the strikers. 
In the course of the testimony it was brought out that the 
Tailors' Society to which the defendants belonged was work- 
ing under a "formal constitution, unincorporated."^^ Work- 
ing on strike work was said by one witness to be "contrary 
to all rules among the journeymen tailors." In another place 
the definite rule of the society is quoted, as follows: "Article 
14. Any man going to work at the time of a turn-out, and 
at a time when young men are standing out for their rights 
in, this city, or any of the principal towns of the U. S., if 
it shall come to the knowledge of this Society, the parties 
so offending shall pay a fine of five dollars; and after pay- 
ing the same, if any member shall upbraid him for his former 
conduct, he shall pay the sum of one dollar." 

With reference to the enforcement of a union shop rule, 
testimony was given by several witnesses. William Robb, a 

69It was charged by the prosecution that copies of the rules had 
been destroyed, so that they could not be brought in evidence. 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 47 

workman called by the prosecution, testified: "I have heard 
the rules of the Society explained by some of the defendants 
to new journeymen. I have heard them say they must join 
the second Monday night after entering, and if not, they 
would be fined 25 cents. If they persisted in not joining, 
they could not work in the shop." And from another wit- 
ness : *'The rule was that when a man had worked in a shop 
ten or twelve days, he was forced to join, or each one in the 
shop would be liable to a fine." The counsel for the prose- 
cution, in the concluding speeches, insisted that the evidence 
had shown conclusively the existence of such rules, and com- 
pared them with certain written rules in the constitution of 
the New York Cordwainers. The testimony for the defense, 
on the other hand, was somewhat different from that given 
above. One witness testified that there was no rule of the 
Society relating to journeymen's work. They were shop 
rules, but no rule of the Society. Another witness, although 
called by the prosecution, made the same statement, and 
added : "In the shop in which I work there are journeymen 
who do not belong to the Society. If a poor journeymen will 
not join the society, I would do nothing. If one who could 
pay were to enter the shop we would recommend his join- 
ing, with the concurrence of our employer, and if he refused, 
we would do nothing." 

It seems quite probable that the conflicting statements on 
this subject are due to the fact that there were three societies 
in the city, which may have had different rules. Enough 
has been shown, however, to indicate that the question of the 
union shop is by no means a new one in the tailoring trade. 
The jury in this case brought in a verdict of guilty, but only 
upon one count, namely: ''Conspiring to re-employ T. Rad- 
ford, T. Hough, James Wilson, Thomas Skeegs, and William 
Scott, who had been dismissed for demanding greater than 
the usual wages paid by Robb and Winebrener and others." 



48 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

On the other seven counts the journeymen were acquitted. 
Motions in arrest of judgment and for a new trial were made 
by the defense. By agreement of counsel the argument on 
the motions was postponed until the December term, 1827. 
An inspection of the record, however, shows that the mo- 
tions were never argued. 

The Philadelphia trial has been discussed in some detail, 
as indi^cating that a tailors' strike in 1827 was not so far dif- 
ferent from similar disturbances today. The proceedings are 
also of interest in that they show the extent to which trade 
union rules had developed at this date. 

Several other strikes are mentioned during this period. 
In 1833 the New York tailors were out, but it was remarked 
by the New York Journal of Commerce that it should be an 
easy matter to defeat them, since "women may well do half 
which the men have been accustomed to do."^^ We are 
reminded here of the tactics of the London masters in 1834. 
In 1835 the question of woman labor was up in three other 
cities, St. Louis, Cincinnati, and Louisville, where the jour- 
neymen refused to work for those who employed women. 
Additional demands were for increased wages, fewer ap- 
prentices, and the privilege of using the back shops on Sun- 
day for beer and cards.'^^ 

Of equal interest with the Philadelphia affair was the 
New York tailors' strike and conspiracy trial in 1836.''^^ It 
will be recalled that a Tailors' Society had been formed in 
New York as early as 1806. In October, 1835, the members 
of the Society struck for higher wages. At this time they 
were successful and returned to work at increased rates. In 
the following January, however, they were out again to en- 

70 Sumner, Sen. Doc. 645, V. 9, p. 120. 

7iSumner, Sen. Doc. 645, V. Q, o. 120: Yale Review. V. i, p. 98, 
article by Evans Woollen on "Labor Troubles Between 1834 and 1837." 

'J'2The Case of Twenty Journeymen Tailors of New York, People 
V. Faulkner. Doc, Hist, V. 4, pp. 315-333. 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 49 

force a ''turn-list." "No one was to take a job out of his 
turn, and no one was to have a second job until all had been 
supplied." Serious trouble grew out of this affair, and the 
journeymen were indicted for a conspiracy to injure trade 
and commerce, and for insult and violence to non-unionists. 
As a result Henry Faulkner, President of the Society, was 
fined $150, and Howard Vail, another conspicuous leader, 
$100. The other defendants were fined $50 each. This trial 
had important political consequences, which were closely con- 
nected with the general workingmen's movement at the close 
of the period 1820-1840.'^^ 

1840-1860. A good summary of this period is found in 
the following extract: 

"The period 1840 to i860 in the American labor move- 
ment is clearly differentiated from the earlier period, as well 
as from the periods which follow it, by the preponderance 
of a somewhat vague but highly humanitarian spirit. It 
was preeminently the age of lofty enthusiasms. Ideal con- 
ceptions of social order found expression through the Amer- 
icanization by Brisbane of the French philosophy of Fourier. 
Mechanical 'phalanxes' took on the form of pleasing pictures 
of community life through the glowing descriptions of lead- 
ing writers and speakers of that day. George Ripley, George 
William Curtis, Charles A. Dana, and Margaret Fuller joined 
in the delights and in singing the praises of the most famous 

"^•^''The trades-union movement reached its climax in 1836. The 
National Convention of that year shows the beginnings of disintegra- 
tion in the hopelessness of strikes and the attention given to panaceas 
and legislation. The turning point came in New York, where the em- 
ployers formed a counter-organization of all lines of business and made 
a test on the tailors. Twenty were convicted of conspiracy. The trial 
was attended by crowds. A mass-meeting of protest was held in the 
Park. It called a State Convention, and the working men went over 
to the Equal Rights, or Loco-foco Party, to aid in its attack on banks 
and chartered monopolies. Tammany lost control of the city, and only 
Ely Moore, the president of the Trades' Union, whom Tammany had 
nominated for Congress, saved the remnant. The Trades' Union dwin- 
dled and ended where the movement of 1829 began, in politics." (Doc. 
Hist, V. 5, Int., pp. 36-37). 



50 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

of these experiments: — the fairy-like frolic of Brook Farm. 
Horace Greeley furnished the most influential vehicle for 
the popular expression of this reform by fostering it through 
the columns of the New York Tribune and by much writing 
and speaking in the name of socialism. It was in 1840, too, 
that Emerson wrote to Carlyle : 'We are all a little wild here 
with numberless projects of social reform. Not a reading 
man but has a draft of a new community in his waistcoat 
pocket.' And Hawthorne tells us in his romantic account 
of the community in which he, too, was personally interested : 
'It was a period when science was bringing forward, anew, 
a hoard of facts and imperfect theories that had partially 
won credence in earlier times, but which modern science had 
swept away as rubbish. These things were now tossed up 
again out of the surging ocean of human thought and ex- 
perience'."^* 

During this period organizations of tailors did not com- 
pletely disappear, for in some localities they seem to have 
acted together with considerable vigor. It is recorded that 
in September, 1843, nearly all of the journeymen tailors em- 
ployed in Boston joined in a strike for higher wages. They 
were out only a day or t;wo, the required advance being in 
some cases granted, in others refused. '^^ In other cities the 
tailors were active during the same year. It is stated by 
John Finch, an English Owenite, who traveled in America 
in 1843, that the tailors of Cincinnati and Pittsburgh had been 
involved in brief but successful strikes. He also gives some 
interesting notes as to their condition. '^^ In 1844 the Phila- 

74Andrews and Bliss, Sen. Doc. 645, V. 10, p. 53. 

75Mass. Bureau of Labor, nth Ann. Report, 1880, p. 5. 

76 "The tailors were out when I was in Pittsburgh, and were parad- 
ing the streets with a band of music ; they were out only one day 
when the masters yielded, as they had done shortly before in Cin- 
cinnati. I conversed with some journeymen tailors on the subject. 
They say that the vests and trousers are mostly made by women, and 
the coats by men; that the keepers of retail and ready-made clothes 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 51 

delphia tailors won an increase in wages after a few days 
strike. "^^ There is some evidence to show that in this year 
an attempt was made to form a national organization of 
tailors. The Workingmen's Advocate of July 2y^ 1844, (New 
York), has the following statement: ''The Tailors of this 
city, who are now on a strike for higher wages, walked in 
procession on Monday through the principal streets, accom- 
panied by two bands of music. It is computed that there 
were about two thousand in the procession. Many of the 
Tailors are now looking for a radical remedy for their 
grievances, as well as to the temporary one of strikes. Their 
General Convention takes place on the 2^th inst., and we 
trust the measure of the National Reform Association will 
not escape their notice. "''^^ No record, however, is found 
showing what came of this movement. 

During the year 1847 strikes were frequent on account 
of the high price of provisions. In June of this year the 
tailors of Philadelphia were again out, demanding an ad- 
vance in prices. The strike lasted until October, when the 
men were successful. "^^ In 1849 there was another strike in 
Boston. At this time it was stated that wages had been 
reduced 57 per cent during the previous five years, the situa- 
tion being due largely to the employment of women on many 

shops purchase part of their goods from other towns, and get the 
rest made by persons out of employment, much below the regular rates 
of wages, and sell at very low prices ; consequently regular, good work- 
men are confined to bespoken articles for first-rate master tailors ; 
hence their employment is very precarious. They are often out of work, 
and are glad to get employment occasionally, at reduced rates, from 
ready-made clothes shops, which reduces wages eventually in spite of 
all they can do to prevent it," (From John Finch, "Notes of Travel 
in the U. S." Quoted in Doc. Hist., V. 7, pp. 65-66). 

The same writer states in another place that tailors in 1843 gen- 
erally get good wages, but are not usually well employed. Their wages 
are about 6s. a day. (Doc. Hist., V. 7, p. 48). 

77U. S. Bureau of Labor, 3rd Ann. Rept., p. 1038. 

78Doc. Hist., V. 8, p. 221. 

■^^U. S. Bureau of Labor, 3rd Ann. Rept., p. 1039. 



52 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

parts of the work hitherto performed by men.^^ In the 
same year the Boston Tailors' Union, discouraged by the 
difficulty of making gains through strikes, entered upon a 
scheme for a cooperative merchant tailoring establishment. 
An association for this purpose was formed with seventy 
members and a capital of $700. The enterprise is said to 
have been a success for several months, but the ultimate out- 
come is not noted. ^^ 

In 185 1 the movement for cooperation had largely de- 
clined, and in 1853, forced by a rise in prices and the cost 
of living, the workingmen began to adopt policies more simi- 
lar to the present ones.^^ "The decade of the fifties wit- 
nessed the organization of several national trade unions and 
of an indefinite number of local unions. For example, the 
cigar makers of Cincinnati are reported to have organized 
a local in 1843; another was formed in Baltimore in 185 1. 
In succeeding years, additional locals were formed in New 
York and other cities. In 1850 a national union of printers 
was organized. None had existed since the ephemeral nat- 
ional organization of the thirties disappeared amid the chaos 
of the panic of 1837. '^he National Trade Association of 
Hat Finishers was organized in 1854. The iron molders and 
the machinists and blacksmiths formed national unions in 
1859, ^^^ the ship carpenters and the coal miners in 1861. 
The period of the fifties had been marked by little labor legis- 
lation except of the humanitarian type."^^ 

Of the tailors during this decade we find but little men- 
tion. In 1850 the German tailors of New York City formed 

80 Sumner, Sen. Doc. 645, V. 9, p. 121. 

8ID0C. Hist., V. 8, pp. 279-285. Quoted from "The Spirit of the 
Age," Sept. 29, 1849, p. 187. 

82Commons, Doc. Hist., V. 7, Int., p. 43. 

83 Carlton, History and Problems of Organized Labor, p. 57. 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 53 

an organization,®* and in 1853 we find an association known 
as the Tailors' Protective Society, which is probably the same 
as that organized in 1850, participating with other trades in 
forming a general Trades' Union for New York City.®^ 
There is little doubt that during this period tailors' societies 
continued to be formed in various localities, although the 
rise of the ready made industry and the employment of 
women would tend to handicap their progress. 

3. 1 860- 1 887. Period of Nation ai. Organization. 
General Tendencies. 

We have already seen that there was some tendency 
toward national organization in the labor movement during 
the three decades following 1830. This tendency, however, 
did not become most prominent until i860. The rapid rise 
of prices during the Civil War had a strong influence upon 
trade union activity, while the enormous demands of the 
government brought about what was virtually a second in- 
dustrial revolution. Especially prominent was the rise of the 
iron, petroleum, and textile industries. The effect upon la- 
bor was soon manifested. '^By 1866 from thirty to forty 
national and international trade unions and amalgamaced socie- 
ties were in evidence, some of them numbering tens of 
thousands of men."®^ City central bodies were also numer- 
ous; it is stated by Carlton that there were at least thirty 
before the close of the year 1865.®"^ To this period belongs 
also the National Labor Union of 1866, which may be re- 
garded in many ways as the forerunner of the present Ameri- 
can Federation of Labor. 

84Doc. Hist., V. 8, pp. 308-309. Article in N. Y. Daily Tribune, 
Aug. 21, 1850. 

85Doc. Hist., V. 8, p. 342. Article in N. Y. Daily Tribune, Sept. 
28, 1853. 

86Adams and Sumner, Labor Problems, p. 219. 

87History and Problems of Organized Labor, p. 58. 



54 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

Only a few brief references to the tailors are found dur- 
ing the Civil War period. In New York an important Society 
was organized in 1862, known as the Journeymen Tailors' 
Protective and Benevolent Union.^^ Mention of this society 
is found at several later dates, and it seems to have had a 
practically continuous existence from that time down to the 
present date.^^ The New York tailors in i860 were prin- 
cipally Germans and Irish, and both nationalities participated 
in forming the new union,^^ whch appears eventually to have 
absorbed the earlier German union of 1850. The tailors 
were also organizing in the middle and far west. In 1863 
they were striking in California against extra fancy work 
on coats,^^ and in 1864 ^ Tailors' Society in St. Louis was 
protesting against the employment of women.^^ With this 
widespread extension of activity, it is not surprising to find 
the tailors yielding shortly to the spirit for national organiza- 
tion. 

First National Union of Tailors, 186^.^^ 

The various isolated unions in the tailoring trade, real- 

ssjn the report of the New York Union to the 1885 Convention 
of the Journeymen Tailors' National Union of the United States, ap- 
pears the following quotation : "The Journeymen Tailors' Protective 
and Benevolent Union of New York will celebrate the 25th anniver- 
sary of the founding of this union in 1887." (Constitution and By- 
Laws, also Proceedings, of the 3rd Annual Convention, p. 9). This 
is our authority for setting the date of this union at 1862. 

89The secretary of the present union in New York states that their 
union was organized in 1866. 

90TAILOR, Oct., 1906, p. 14; editorial on "Frederick Werner." 

91U. S. Bureau of Labor, 3rd Annual Rept., p. 1047. 

92Sumner, Sen. Doc. 645, V. 9, p. 121. 

93The material dealing with the history of the tailors from 1865 
to 1885 has been derived mainly from a sketch embodied by Mr. Fred- 
erick Werner in his report as Treasurer to the 1893 Convention of 
the J. T. U. of A. (Tailor, Aug., 1893, p. 3). Mr. Werner was a 
prominent German tailor of New York City, was instrumental in form- 
ing the New York union of 1862, and was one of the leaders through- 
out the history of the subsequent national movement. A few supple- 
m.entary facts have been added by Mr. John B. Lennon, who was an 
officer and delegate at every tailors' convention after 1883. Other ref- 
erences are as cited. 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 55 

izing the weakness that lies in separation, entered upon a 
movement for national federation, and in August, 1865, a 
Convention was held in Philadelphia, at which the following 
cities were represented : New York, New York ; Philadel- 
phia, Pennsylvania ; Washington, D. C. ; Worcester, Massa- 
chusetts; Troy, New York; Cincinnati, Ohio; and Louisville, 
Kentucky. The organization formed at this Convention was 
entitled ''The Journeymen Tailors' National Trades Union." 
It is implied in the account which we follow that subsequent 
yearly conventions were held regularly. "Strong efforts 
were made to organize local unions, not only in cities, but 
in small towns, but not with the success expected. However, 
the large cities followed our banner."^* There is some evi- 
dence that in 1871 a reorganization was necessary, as the 
Report of the Industrial Commission states that a national 
union of tailors was formed at that date, evidently over- 
looking the earlier organization.^^ The first union must 
have lasted at least until 1867, as in that year they were rep- 
resented at the Chicago Congress of the National Labor 
Union. ^"^ There were also tailors' delegates at the 1868 
and 1869 Congresses, but these were from the local unions 
in New York and Brooklyn, and did not represent the Nat- 
ional. ^^ 

In February, 1875, there was a tailors' strike in Boston, 
for the object of improving the scale of prices, but the strike 
failed to accomplish anything for the workmen, others be- 
ing engaged in their places. ^^ 

94Report of Frederick Werner, 1893. 

95Report of the Industrial Commission, V. 17, p. 64. 

96 Seven successive annual conventions or Congresses of the Nat- 
ional Labor Union were held, beginning in 1866 and ending in 1872. 
For reference to tailors' delegates at the Chicago Congress, see Doc. 
HHst, V. 9, p. 170. 

971868 Congress, Doc. Hist., V. 9, p. 196. 1869 Congress, ibid., p. 
229. 

98Mass. Bureau of Labor, nth Ann. Rept., 1880, p. 39. 



56 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

Whatever may have been the vicissitudes of the Tailors' 
National Union, it was certainly in existence in 1875, for 
we have the definite record of its Convention in St. Louis 
in August of this year.^^ Of thirty-nine local unions affili- 
ated with the National, twenty-three were represented, with 
thirty delegates. The Treasurer's books showed a balance of 
$2,924.23, but to the great chagrin of the delegates the Treas- 
urer himself failed to appear; in fact, in the language of 
Mr. Werner, "Treasurer and money were never seen again." 
It was necessary to borrow money from the New York and 
St. Louis Locals, largely on the guarantee of Mr. Werner 
himself, in order that the delegates might return to their 
homes. 

The embezzlement of the funds was a severe blow to the 
Union ; at the same time they managed to weather the storm 
for another year, and at the Convention of 1876 the new 
Treasurer reported all debts paid and a balance on hand of 
$169.64. Of thirty-seven local unions, thirteen were repre- 
sented, with fifteen delegates. Officers were elected, and Chi- 
cago fixed upon for the next Convention. This meeting, 
however, never took place, as the National Union broke up 
during the following year, due no doubt to the previous finan- 
cial trouble. 

A period now ensued of about seven years, including a 
part of 1883, during which there was no national union in 
the tailoring trade. The locals, however, continued their 
activity. In 1879 there was a strike in one shop in Boston, 
which resulted after about three months in the defeat of the 
men.^*^^ Beginning with 1881 we have an account of strikes 
by the United States Commissioner of Labor, which, al- 
though it cannot be regarded as exhaustive, throws consid- 

99Report of Frederick Werner, 1893. Since writing the above evi- 
dence has reached the writer that regular conventions were also held 
in 1873 and 1874. 

100 Mass. Bureau of Labor, nth Ann. Rept., 1880, p. 52. 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 57 

erable light upon what was going on in the tailoring trade.^^^ 
The following table shows strikes reported in this trade from 
1881 to 1883 : 

Strikes in the Taii^oring Trade, i 881 -1883. 

Date Locality Number Cause Result 

involved. 
Mch. 21, 1881 Cincinnati 25 For increase. Comprom'ed 

Mch. 2^, 1 88 1 Pittsburgh 121 For increase. Won. 

Apr. 16, 1881 New York no For increase. Won. 

Oct. 19, 1 88 1 Dubuque 66 For increase. Compro'ed. 

Aug. 12, 1882 Wash., D. C. 3 For union scale. Won. 
Mch. 12, 1883 Denver 15 Against reduction Lost. 

Mch. 17, 1883 Des Moines 92 For increase. Won. 

Mch. 20, 1883 Freeport, 111. 41 For increase Won. 

Apr. I, 1883, Philadelphia 10 For increase Lost. 

Apr. 24, 1883 Boston 12 Against reduction Lost. 

It is reported by the Commissioner of Labor that all the 
above strikes were called by labor organizations. The table 
is therefore of especial value as indicating the presence of 
local unions in certain cities not hitherto noted. 

Before taking up the history of the present National 
Union, it is considered of interest to introduce the following 
table, showing all local unions existing prior to the National 
Convention of 1883, so far as it has been possible to trace 
them. A city is not listed unless there is definite evidence 
of a tailors' society. The mere fact of a strike is not taken 
as prima facie evidence of organization. ^^^ The dates given 
are the earliest dates furnished by our references at which 

10 lU. S. Bureau of Labor, 3rd Ann. Rept., 1887, on "Strikes and 
Lockouts, 1881-1886." 

I021t is certain that the list is incomplete. Additional informa- 
tion would be appreciated by the writer and publishers, in case such 
information is in the possession of any of the readers. 



58 



STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 



unions existed in the cities in question. It is probable that 
in several instances the unions existed earlier than the dates 
named. Not all unions in the list were in existence im- 
mediately prior to 1883, some having been organized and 
disbanded again before that date. ^ 

List 01* Local Unions Existing Prior to the National 
Convention oe August, 1883. 



Locality 
Baltimore, Md. 
Philadelphia, Pa 

New York, N. Y. 
Boston, Mass. 
Buffalo, N. Y. 
Troy, N. Y. 
Cincinnati, Ohio 
Pittsburgh, Pa. 
Dubuque, Iowa 
Chicago, 111. 
St. Louis, Mo. 
Washington, D. C. 



Worcester, Mass. 
Louisville, Ky. 
Brooklyn, N. Y. 
Denver, Colo. 
Bloomington, 111. 
Atlanta, Ga. 
Bridgeport, Conn. 
Hartford, Conn. 
New Haven, Conn. 



Date Authority. 

1795 McMaster, V. 3, p. 511. 

1806 Colo. Bur. of Labor, ist Bien- 

aial Report, p. 336. 
1806 Carlton, p. 17. 
1806 Tailor, Nov., 1906, p. 17. 
1824 Doc. Hist., V. 4, pp. 93-95. 
1829 Officers present union. 
1843 Doc. Hist., V. 8, p. 220. 
1843 Doc. Hist., V. 7, pp. 65-66. 
1859 Officers present union. 
i860 Officers present union. 

1864 Sen. Doc. 645, V. 9, p. 121. 

1865 Report of Frederick Werner, 

1893, 

In Tailor, Aug., 1893, p. 3. 

1865 Tailor, Aug., 1893, p. 3. 

1865 Tailor, Aug., 1893, p. 3. 

1869 Doc. Hist., V. 9, p. 229. 

1870 Charter members. 

1873 

1873 MS, Charter 

1873 Officers present union. 

1873 Proceedings 1873 Convention. 

1873 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 



59 



Locality. Date. 

Binghamton, N. Y. 1873 

Elmira, N. Y. 1873 

Syracuse, N. Y. 1873 

Saratoga, N. Y. 1873 

Nashville, Tenn. 1873 

Memphis, Tenn. 1873 

Norfolk, Va. 1873 

Richmond, Va. 1873 

Meadville, Pa. 1873 

Harrisburg, Pa. 1873 

Springfield, 111. 1873 

Savannah, Ga. 1873 

Monmouth, 111. 1873 

Terre Haute, Ind. 1873 

Leavenworth, Kan. 1873 

Williamsport, Pa. 1874 

San Francisco, Cal. 1875 

Kansas City, Mo. 1875 

Burlington, la. 1875 

Council Bluffs, la. 1875 

Minneapolis, Minn. 1875 

Omaha, Neb. 1875 
St. Paul, Minn. ' 1875 

Utica, N. Y. 1875 

Indianapolis, Ind. 1876 

Rochester, N. Y. 1876 

St. Catherine's Ont. 1878 

Champaign-Urb'a, 111. i88t 

Portage, Wis. 1882 

Winnipeg, Man. 1882 

Freeport, 111. March 1883 

Des Moines, la. March 1883 



Atithority. 
Proceedings 1873 Convention. 



Proceedings 1874 Convention. 
Proceedings 1873 Convention. 
























Proceedings 1874 Convention. 
Proceedings 1874 Convention. 

Officers present union. 

jj j> j> 

Proceedings 1875 Convention. 



Proceedings 1876 
Officers present union. 



U. S. Bur. of Labor, 3rd Ann. 
Report, p. 120. 
Ibid., p. 188. 



60 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

Second National Union of Tailors, 1883. 

In June, 1883, the Philadelphia union issued a call for a 
convention, to meet in that city on the second Monday in 
August, 1883. Five local unions responded, Philadelphia^ 
New York, Troy, Baltimore, and Pittsburgh. Officers were 
elected and constitution and by-laws adopted.^ ^^ The new 
organization was entitled *'The Journeymen Tailors' National 
Union of the United States."^^^ John Mustadt of New York 
was chosen President; Charles Sharpe of Philadelphia, Sec- 
retary; and Barny O'Donnell, of Philadelphia, Treasurer. 

Convention of 1884. 

During the year following the 1883 convention, strikes 
are reported by the United States Commissioner of Labor in 
New York, Philadelphia, St. Louis and San Francisco, and in 
all of these cities the journeymen obtained some advan- 
tages. ^^^ During the year sixteen locals were granted char- 
ters.^^^ When the second convention met in Chicago, August 
II, 1884, eleven of these unions were represented, with fif- 
teen delegates. "The Executive Board was authorized to is- 
sue an appeal to all tailors of the United States to organize, 
also to all the Locals which belonged to the former union to 
join the ranks again. "^^^ The officers elected for the ensu- 

103 Copy of this constitution has not as yet been secured. 

i04This union has existed continuously from 1883 until the pres- 
ent date. In 1889 the name was changed to read, "Journeymen Tailors* 
Union of America," and since that date there has been no change in 
the title. 

10 5U. S. Bureau of Labor, 3rd Ann. Rept. See table for full list 
of strikes, 1884-1886. 

10 6 By consulting the Proceedings of the 1884 Convention, we have 
been enabled to ascertain the names of these unions, as follows ; New 
York, New York; Philadelphia, Pennsylvania; New Haven, Connecti- 
cut ; Baltimore, Maryland ; Worcester, Massachusetts ; Chicago, Illi- 
nois ; Peoria, Illinois; Champaign, Illinois; Springfield, Illinois; St. 
Louis, Missouri ; Kansas City, Missouri ; Denver, Colorado ; Cheyenne, 
Wyoming; Pittsburg, Pa.; Harrisburg, Pa.; Washington, D. C. 

10 ■^Report of Frederick Werner, 1893. 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 



61 



ing year were: President, John B. Lennon; Secretary, 
Joseph Wilkenson; Treasurer, Frederick Werner. 



Strikes in the Taii^gring Trade, 1884- 1886. 



Number 



Date 


Locality 


Involved Cause 


Result 


1884. 










Mch. 


18 New York, N. Y. 


39 


For increase. 


Won. 


Apr. 


5 Philadelphia, Pa. 


18 


Against reduction. 


Won. 


Apr. 


15 St. Louis, Mo. 


17 


For increase. 


Won. 


May 


6 New York, N. Y. 


76 


Against reduction. 


Compr. 


May 


29 San Francisco, Cal. 


13 


Against additional 


Won. 


1885. 






helpers. 




Feb. 


15 Louisville, Ky. 


10 


Against reduction.. 


Lost. 


Mch. 


27 Atlanta, Ga. 


9 


Against convict labor. Won 


Apr. 


I New York, N. Y. 


33 


Against reduction. 


Won. 


Apr. 


I Des Moines, Iowa. 


91 


Readjustment of 
scale. 


Won. 


Apr. 


2 Philadelphia, Pa. 


24 


Sympathetic strike. 


Lost. 


July 


6 Washington, D. C. 


13 


Against 3 non- 
unionists. 


Lost. 


Aug. 


18 Leavenworth, Kas. 


69 


For increase. 


Won. 


Oct. 


8 Champaign- 
Urbana, 111. 


20 


Against ''extras." 


Won. 


Oct. 


8 Butte, Mont. 


8 For increase. 


Lost. 


Dec. 


31 Baltimore, Md. 


22 


For increase. 


Lost. 



1886. 

Mch. 16 Danville, Va. 

Mch. 20 Boston, Mass. 
Apr. I Chicago, 111. 
Apr. 6 Springfield, 111. 

Apr. 14 Duluth, Minn. 

Apr. 19 Milwaukee, Wis. 



30 Pay for overtime. Compr. 
600 For increase. Lost. 

55 For increase. Won. 

47 Against ''extras." Lost. 

19 For increase. Lost. 

315 For increase. Compr. 



62 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

Number 
Date Locality Involved Cause Resiilt 

May 19 Pittsburgh, Pa. 403 For increase. Lost. 

Sept. 20 Chicago, 111. 25 For increase. Won. 

Sept. 25 Ithaca, N. Y. 18 For increase. Compr. 

Nov. 20 Grand Rapids, 7 For increase. Lost. 

Mich. 
Notes. 

1. Information in this table is taken from the 3rd Annual Report 
of the United States Bureau of Labor. Only one change has been made 
in the data as there reported. The Commissioner of Labor reported 
the Boston, 1886, strike as won, but we find from the Tailors' Journal 
that this was a mistake, and that the strike was in reality lost. Tailor, 
November, 1906, pp. 17-18. We have made the change accordingly. 

2. This table is continuous with that given in the text of Chapter 
3, showing strikes from 1881 to 1883. The list was divided so as to show 
strikes before and after the National Union of 1883 was organized. 

3. The Commissioner reports that all these strikes were called by 
labor organizations except Duluth and Ithaca, both 1886. 

4. The date given in each case is the date of the beginning of the 
strike. 

5. Strikes which succeeded partially are marked "Compr." for 
"Compromised." 



Convention of 1885. 



108 



This convention met in Baltimore, August 10, 1885. 
Twenty-three unions were reported as being in good stand- 
ing, with an aggregate membership of 2481. Five of these 
locals were represented at the convention, as follows: Bal- 
timore, Philadelphia, New York, New Haven, and Denver. 
New York sent three delegates, and the others one each, mak- 
ing a total of seven. 

The President reported that the year just passed had been 
a severe strain upon the National, in view of the serious de- 
pression in the trade. He stated, however, that there had 
been a gain in strength. It was suggested that in view of 

lOSThe account of this convention is taken from the "Constitution 
and By-Laws, also Proceedings, of the 3rd Annual Convention of the 
Journeymen Tailors' National Union of the United States." (N. Y., 
1885). This constituion aoid by-laws is found in. the appendix to this 
chapter. Table of local unions, 1885, is given herewith. 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 63 

the small number of delegates, great care would be required 
in order to legislate in a manner satisfactory to the locals not 
represented. The Secretary complained likewise of indus- 
trial conditions, stating that organization had been difficult, 
and that it had been found necessary to resist threatened re- 
ductions in wages. Strikes for this purpose had taken place 
in Baltimore, New York and Philadelphia, and while they 
had not been completely successful, a general reduction had 
been prevented in these cities. The Secretary took occasion 
to commend the "uniform, prompt and generous manner" in 
which the local unions had responded to appeals for help 
from the ''strike cities." This is significant as indicating that 
the National Union had already developed a considerable 
spirit of solidarity. With reference to organizing work, the 
Secretary reported that seven local unions had joined since 
the previous convention, and six more with whom he had 
been in correspondence indicated their intention of joining. 
Circular matter for local unions had been sent out through a 
periodical known as "Swinton's Magazine," which had been 
adopted as the official organ of the National Union. 

List of Local Unions Affiliated with the National. 

August, i88^. 



Locality. Membership. 


New York, N. Y. 


1260 


Chicago, 111. 


300 


Philadelphia, Pa. (United) 


116 


Baltimore, Md. 


102 


St. Louis, Mo. 


80 


Denver, Colo. 


72 


Philadelphia, Pa. (English) 


64 


Philadelphia, Pa. (German) 


58 


Peoria, 111. 


54 



64 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 



Locality 




Membership 


Brooklyn, N. Y. 




42 


Kansas City, Mo. 




40 


New Haven, Conn. 




40 


Worcester, Mass. 




35 


Bloomington, 111. 




35 


Springfield, 111. 




30 


Meadville, Pa. 




25 


Milwaukee, Wis. 




25 


Sedalia, Mo. 




20 


Janesville, Wis. 




19 


Leavenworth, Kas. 




19 


Rock Island-Davenport. 


18 


Cheyenne, Wyo. 




14 


Champaign-Urbana, 


111. 


13 



Total 2481 

NOTE: The above list is taken from the Proceedings of the 1885 
Convention, and represents the unions which were reported to that 
Convention as being in good standing. 

In the matter of strikes, the officers, as well as several 
unions who reported by letter instead of by delegates, agreed 
that strong efforts must be made to settle controversies with- 
out strike, and to avoid strikes during the dull seasons, es- 
pecially January, February, July and August. This recom- 
mendation was eventually embodied in a new by-law. ^^^ 
Unions in Urbana, Illinois, and Kansas City, Missouri, had 
been refused support in demanding an advance, the unions 
being advised that the efforts of the National must for the 
time being be confined to resisting reductions. Two other 
unions, Chicago and Denver, had been obliged to accept slight 
reductions, this policy appearing better than a strike, in view 
of the business depression. Actual strikes in cities affilated 

i0 9By-laws of 1885, Art. 13. See appendix. 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 65 

with the National had taken place in Baltimore, New York, 
Philadelphia, and Kansas City, and there had been a lockout 
of twenty men in Denver. In addition, strikes were reported 
from the following cities containing local unions not yet af- 
filiated : San Francisco, Boston, Atlanta, Nashville, Des- 
Moines, Louisville, and Washington, D. C.^^^ As a rule the 
national secretary had written these unions, inviting them to 
join, but they had not as yet taken action. Similar cor- 
respondence had been held with Providence, Rhode Island, 
Warren, Pennsylvania, New Orleans, Louisiana, Council 
Bluffs, Iowa, Ottawa, Kansas, and Los Angeles, California. 
In each of these cities unions existed, which it was hoped to 
bring into the National ; in fact, two of them — New Orleans 
and Warren — became members between the adjournment of 
the convention and the publication of the Proceedings. 

During the preceding term the strike benefit had been 
$6.00 a week; this the 1885 convention reduced to $4.00, 
fearing a depletion of the funds. It was reported that dur- 
ing the year since the 1884 convention strike benefit had been 
paid to the sum of $2,924.45, and claims allowed while the 
convention was in session brought the sum total up to 
$3,286.45. The seriousness of this expense will be realized 
when it is noted that the entire income of the union for the 
term was only $3,604.14. In fact, at the close of the conven- 
tion, after allowing for the expenses of the delegates, there 
was a balance of only $37.45 in the Treasurer's hands. ^^^ 

A matter of some interest in connection with this conven- 

110 See table for strikes in 1885, as reported by U. S. Commissioner 
of Labor. 

111 The balance sheet at the close of the Convention, August 15, 
1885, was as follows : 

Income, Aug. 15, 1884 to Aug. 15, 1885 $3,604.14 

Expense, Aug. 15, 1884 to Aug. 15, 1885 3-566.69 

Balance in hands of Treasurer, Aug. 15, 1885 $ 37.45 

From report of the Treasurer, 1885 Proceedings. 



66 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

tion is the fact that there was in existence at the same time 
a dual organization known as the "Tailors' Progressive Un- 
ion of America." This organization sent a letter to the Sec- 
retary of the Tailors' National Union, seeking support for 
an eight-hour movement, and criticizing the methods of the 
New York union of the Tailors' National. The Convention 
directed the Secretary to reply that the Convention could not 
interfere between local unions in any city, but that the branch 
of the ''Progressives" in New York would be permitted to 
affiliate with the National if they liked. This Progressive 
Union seems to have been a socialistic organization, which at 
no time had a large membership, and it is probable that it 
was gradually absorbed by the larger society, although we 
find it referred to as late as 1889.^^^ 

The Convention of 1885 concluded its work with a series 
of interesting resolutions, ^^^ including a decision to make the 

ii2ln the report of the Tailors' delegate to the A. F. of L. Con 
vention of 1887, Tailor, Jan., 1888, p. 5, appears the following: 

*T appeared before the Committee on Credentials to inquire into 
the nature of the Progressive Tailors' Union The Pro- 
gressive Tailors' Union, so far as I have been able to learn about it, 
is a poor struggling union with very good objects, but wholly impracti- 
cable methods. They have but a few local unions, and have not a 
scale of prices established in any of them. They are composed mostly 
of tailors working at ready made clothing. It is my opinion that such 
of them as work on custom made garments ought to join our national 
union, and that we in return should give them every encouragement 
and support to organize the manufacturing tailors." It should be noted 
that the United Garment Workers' Union was not organized until 
1891, and previous to that date it was a serious problem with the custom 
tailors as to what should be done with the ready-made workers, or 
"shop tailors," as they were then called. (See Sen. Doc. 645, V. 10, 
p. 160; also Tailor, Sept., 1889, P- !> Report of the General Secretary 
to the Columbus Convention). It appears that the "Progressive Union" 
was represented at the Convention of the A. F. of L. in 1889, as well 
as in 1887. At the 1887 convention, as suggested by the above ex- 
tract, the credentials of its delegates were disputed, but the delegates 
were finally seated. (Proceedings of A. F. of L. Convention, 1887, 
p. 8). In 1888 the Progressive Union was listed as one of the National 
Unions of the American Federation, although it had no delegate at 
this convention. (Proceedings, 1888, pp. 34-36). This union was granted 
permission to use its label on ready-made clothing, but not on custom- 
made. (Proceedings, 1887, p. 28). In 1889 the Progressive Union 
claimed to have eleven branches. (Proceedings, 1889, p. 8). 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 67 

convention biennial instead of annual, and elected the follow- 
ing officers for the ensuing term : 

President, Charles H. Sharpe, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. 

First Vice-President, Frederick Jensen, New York, New 
York. 

Second Vice-President, Henry Becker, Baltimore, ]\lary- 
land. 

Third Vice-President, John B. Lennon, Denver, Colorado. 

Fourth Vice-President, James W. Smith, Springfield, 
Illinois. ^^^ 

Secretary, Joseph Wilkenson, New York, New York. 

Treasurer, Frederick Werner, New York, New York. 

Auditors, John Casey, William Brodil. 

The Tailors and the Knights of Labor. 

In accord with the resolutions of 1885, there was no an- 
nual convention of the Tailors' National Union in 1886, the 
next meeting being set for 1887. Before, however, taking 
up the 1887 convention, it is our desire to discuss briefly the 
relation of the tailors to the Knights of Labor. It will be 
recalled that this organization started with an organization of 
garment cutters in Philadelphia in 1869. By 1886 it had 
reached its height, and shortly after began to decline, as a 
result largely of the rise of craft unionism and of the Ameri- 
can Federation of Labor. 

It is not possible to ascertain from the Proceedings of the 
Knights whether or not any of the delegates to their con- 
ventions were of the tailoring trade, inasmuch as all delegates 
are designated according to ''local assemblies," most of which 
were mixed. In some issues, however, of the Journal of 

11 3 See Appendix to this chapter. 

ii^This member was of considerable prominence in the labor move- 
ment. In 1884 he represented the National Tailors' Union at the Con- 
vention of the American Federation of Labor, and in 1886. while serv- 
ing in a similar capacity, was elected President of the Convention. 
(Proceedings of the Conventions of the A. F. of L.. 1884 and 1886). 



68 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

United Labor, the official organ of the Knights, are found 
monthly summaries of newly organized assemblies, and here 
we have found mention of several assemblies of tailors, 
though not as many as of other crafts. ^^^ 

It seems probable that where tailors were members of the 
Knights of Labor they were usually connected as individuals 
with mixed assemblies, and that the local tailors' societies 
were affiliating with their own national union, at least after 

1883. In one or two cases, however, considerable contro- 
versy arose over the matter; thus we find that in 1885 the 
Cincinnati union of tailors had disbanded and gone over to 
the Knights,^ ^^ and in 1887 an officer of the National gave 
as a reason for his resignation the fact that there was a dis- 
cord in his local union over this subject. ^^'^ 

Strikes in the Tailoring Trade, August, 188 j, to August, 188/. 

During this term there were a number of tailors' strikes. ^^^ 
Apparently the most serious were those in Boston and Pitts- 

ii5ln running through a broken file of the Journal of United La- 
bor, containing thirty-eight of the eighty-four numbers between March, 

1884, and May, 1887, we find mention of the following tailors' assem- 
blies being organized : 

Locality. 

Albany, New York 
Cleveland, Ohio 
Springfield, Ohio 
Lynn, Massachusetts 
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania 
Newark, New Jersey 
Newark, New Jersey 
Boston, Massachusetts 

The monthly summaries are discontinued early in 1887. There is 
no positive assurance that all of the above assemblies were composed 
of custom tailors ; in the Journal they are listed as "tailors" or "tail- 
ors' employees ;" some garment workers may have been included. 

116 Proceedings of the National Tailors' Union. i88k. d. 7. 

ii^Proceedings of the 1887 Convention, Tailor, Oct., 1887. 

11 8 See table already given for full list of strikes from 1884 to 1886, 
as reported by the U. S. Commissioner of Labor, 



Date,. 


Assembly 






Number. 


May, 


1885 


3859 


June, 


1885 


3974 


June, 


1885 


3980 


Jan., 


1886 


4868 


Feb., 


1886 


5274 


Feb., 


1886 


5346 


Feb., 


1886 


5672 


Mch., 


1886 


5892 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 69 

burgh in 1886, involving respectively 600 and 403 members. 
1886 seems to have been a bad year for strikes; of ten re- 
ported by the United States Commissioner, five were lost, in- 
cluding the two above mentioned, and only two were entirely 
successful. A continuation of the depression complained of 
in 1885 was probably responsible for some of these difficul- 
ties.^ ^^ With the exception of these strikes we have little rec- 
ord of the tailors until their next convention. 

Convention of 188/. 

This convention was in many ways more important than 
any that had previously taken place. The Proceedings will 
therefore be examined in some detail. ^^^ 

The convention opened in New York City, August 8, 
1887. It was reported that there were twenty-seven unions 
in good standing, with an aggregate membership of 2512.^^^ 
Of these unions thirteen were represented, with fifteen 
delegates. The unions represented were : New York, Brook- 
lyn, Troy and Poughkeepsie, New York; Worcester and 
Springfield, Massachusetts; Providence, Rhode Island; New^ 
Haven and Danbury, Connecticut; Baltimore, Maryland; 
Columbus, Ohio ; St. Louis, Missouri, and Denver, Colorado. 

ii9An rnteresting account of the Boston strike is found in the 
Tailor, Nov., 1906, pp. 16-17. The article is by Thomas Sweeney, a 
well-known organizer of the Tailors' Union : 

"The most eventful thing in connection with the life of the union 
in Boston is a strike in 1886. When that strike took place the Boston 
union was well organized ; they had between six and seven hundred 
members and had a good treasury. Believing themselves masters of 
the situation, they decided to present a uniform bill to all firms in the 
city. The Executive Board and a Committee having the bill in charge 
reported against presenting such a bill, but the union voted down the 
report and went ahead with the bill. Up to that time there was no 
union of employers. They soon organized one and resisted the demand 
of the union. In addition to the uniformity looked for by the union, 
they raised the price ten per cent." The writer states further that after 
dragging along for several month's the strike was finally lost, and the 
men returned to work, leaving the union considerably weakened. 

120 See Tailor, Oct., 1887. 

121 A full list of these unions, with the membership of each, is given 
on p. 70. 



70 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

List o^ Locai, Unions Ai^fii^iated with thk National,, 

August, 1887. 



Locality. 


Membership. 


New York, N. Y. 


1240 


Boston, Mass. 


145 


Baltimore, Md. 


123 


Troy, N. Y. 


113 


Columbus, Ohio. 


90 


Providence, R. I. 


80 


St. Louis, Mo. 


80 


Denver, Colo. 


80 


Grand Rapids, Mich. 


55 


Peoria, 111. 


55 


Wichita, Kas. 


50 


DesMoines, Iowa. 


41 


Brooklyn, N. Y. 


40 


Worcester, Mass. 


37 


Springfield, Mass. 


33 


Bloomington, 111. 


33 


Danbury, Conn. 


32 


Butte City, Mont. 


30 


Leadville, Colo. 


25 


Emporia, Kas. 


23 


Poughkeepsie, N. Y. 


23 


South Bend, Ind. 


. 21 


Springfield, 111. 


20 


Warren, Pa. 


15 


Champaign-Urbana, 111. 


12 


Sedalia, Mo. 


9 


Leavenworth, Kas. 


7 


Total, 27 unions 


2512 



NOTE : The above list is taken from the report of the Finance 
Committee of the 1887 Convention, Tailor, Oct., 1887, p. 3. This re- 
port indicated all local unions paying dues during the term 1885-1887, 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 71 

and in making the above list it was necessary to eliminate those locals 
that had lapsed before 1887. The membership given above is probably 
the largest membership reported during the term, and may be a little 
too large for 1887; it is, however, the only list obtainable. It should 
be stated that when the new secretary took charge in 1887, several of 
these unions had fallen behind with their dues, and were not technically 
in benefit. 

Frederick Jensen was made chairman of the convention. 
In his opening speech he called attention to the fact that 
strikes were failures and expensive, and intimated that the 
money of the organization would better be used for organiz- 
ing purposes. He also recommended that an official Journal 
be established. 

Mr. Samuel Gompers, of the American Federation of 
Labor, was present as a visitor, and spoke on ^'Trade Union- 
ism." Following Mr. Gompers, Mr. Charles H. Sharpe, re- 
tiring President of the Tailors' Union, tendered his resigna- 
tion, stating as a reason that there was discord in his local 
union of Philadelphia over the question of affiliating with the 
Knights of Labor. 

The Secretary, Joseph Wilkenson, reported that wages 
had been slightly increased since the last convention, but that 
systematic organization was necessary. He favored the ap- 
pointment of a secretary on full time, and recommended that 
the Executive Board be empowered to appoint an organizer 
from time to time as needed. Like Mr. Jensen, he believed 
that an official Journal should be started as soon as possible. 
With reference to strikes, he spoke in part as follows: 

''The proper regulation of strikes is a question that has 
always perplexed and bothered all labor organizations. Judg- 
ing by the past, I can see no way by which they can be en- 
tirely avoided. The great thing is to know when and how to 
strike or to leave it alone. In my opinion a strike should 
never be ordered, no matter what the cause may be, when de- 
feat is sure, as, for instance, when a considerable portion of 



72 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

the men working are not in the union." This utterance is 
significant as expressing in a few words the poHcy which has 
been followed throughout the subsequent history of the union. 

A report was heard from the delegate of the Tailors' Un- 
ion to the convention of the "American Federation of Organ- 
ized Trade and Labor Unions of the United States and 
Canada," which had just reorganized under the name of the 
"American Federation of Labor." The delegate bore an in- 
vitation to the Tailors tO' join the reorganized body, and 
this invitation was later accepted by the convention. 

The Treasurer's report indicated a favorable showing, as 
follows : 

Total receipts, Aug. 15, 1885, to Aug. 10, 1887. . .$5,698.99 
Total expense, Aug. 15, 1885 to Aug. 10 1887 2,075.90 



Balance in general fund, Aug. 10, 1887 $3,623.09 

This represented a gain in the fund of $3,585.64 since the 
previous convention. 

The Committee on Constitution brought in a. set of re- 
vised laws, which were adopted without amendment by the 
convention. Some of the changes made in the old Constitu- 
tion were of minor consequence; there were, however, other 
changes of the highest importance, (i) A secretary was ap- 
pointed on full time at a salary of $1,000 a year for the en- 
suing term. (2) The secretary was appointed chief organ- 
izer, to direct extension work under the authority of the 
Executive Board. (3) An official Journal was established, 
called The Taii^or, to be published monthly and mailed free 
to every member.^ ^^ (4) The principle of the referendum 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 73 

was extended so that any local union could secure an ex- 
pression of opinion prior to the convention from the whole 
membership upon a proposed amendment, such opinion to be 
binding on the convention. According to the previous con- 
stitution propositions must be seconded by seven unions be- 
fore they could be submitted.^ ^^ (5) Provision was made 
for one-half the mileage of convention delegates to be paid 
by the National Union. This expense had formerly been met 
entirely by the local unions. 

The resolutions of 1885 were practically re-affirmed, and 
in addition the following important resolutions adopted i^^'* 

8. Resolve:d : That we recommend to the members 
of the local unions composing this body, when purchasing 
goods of any description, goods made by union men, particu- 
larly such as bear the labels of national or international trade 
organizations. 

9. RksoIvVEd : We believe it to be for the interest of 
our trade, and do therefore recommend, all local unions to 
establish employment bureaus as soon as possible. 

10. Resolved: That all local unions are hereby most 
earnestly urged to observe in connection with other labor or- 
ganizations the first Monday of September in each year as a 
National Labor Holiday. 

11. Resolved: That all local organizations of tailors 
should affiliate with their own National Union in preference 
to any other body. 

i22As originally passed by the Convention, each member was to 
pay five cents a month for the paper, but within a couple of months 
after the adjournment of the Convention the General Executive Board, 
finding funds sufficient, took the responsibility of furnishing the Jour- 
nal free of charge, and this has been the practice ever since. 

i23Resolutions of 1885, No. 10. See Appendix for full text of these 
resolutions. 

i24Constitution of 1887, pp. 20-21. 



74 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

12. Ri:soi.vkd: That what is known as the sweating 
system is very injurious to our trade, and we therefore call 
upon all local unions to give the matter careful consideration, 
and try and devise means to stop it. 

13. ResgIvVKd: That we do hereby submit to the local 
unions for careful consideration during the next two years 
the following propositions, believing that their adoption will 
result in much good : 

First. — To establish throughout all unions a uniform sys- 
tem of benefits. 

Second. — To equalize the funds, dues and initiation fees 
of all local unions. 

Third. — To pay in full the expenses of delegates to the 
conventions. 

14. ResoI/VKi): That all local unions are hereby urged 
to thoroughly discuss the above propositions and instruct 
their delegates to the next convention in regard to them. 

It is not too much to say that the convention of 1887 
marks the beginning of the Journeymen Tailors' Union of 
America as a permanent business institution. This is es- 
pecially true in view of the fact that the chief officers elected 
by this convention held their positions for many years fol- 
lowing. Mr. Frederick Werner, who was re-elected Treas- 
urer, held his office until July, 1906, only eighteen months be- 
fore his death ; and Mr. John B. Lennon, who was now elected 
Secretary for the first time, served continuously for twenty- 
three years. ^^^ 

Concluding Note. 

It has been decided not to carry this chronological sketch 
beyond the year 1887, in view of the fact that the files of the 

i25Mr. Lennon served from August, 1887, to July i, 1910, when 
he was succeeded by Mr. Eugene J. Brais. A brief biographical sketch 
of both of these officers will be found in the Appendix. 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 75 

official Journal begin with that date,^^^ thus affording an op- 
portunity for more detailed studies. ^^^ It may, however, be 
remarked here that no essential change of principle has taken 
place in the organization since its foundation. The member- 
ship has risen, fallen, risen and fallen again, under the influ- 
ence of industrial conditions and the internal evolution of the 
trade. Important crises have been passed; serious battles 
won and lost; policies have been initiated, improved, and 
made a part of the movement, but the fundamental purpose, 
as stated today, is not different from that when the union 
was founded, namely : ''To rescue our trade from the con- 
dition to which it has fallen and by all honest and just 

means to elevate the moral, social, and intellectual condition 
of our members. "^^^ 

126 The opening number of The Tailor is dated October, 1887. 

i2TThe first of these studies, a statistical investigation, will be 
found in the following chapter. 

i28Constitution, 1910, p. 5. 



APPENDICES 



CHAPTER THREE 



APPENDIX A. 
Outline oi^ Tailors' Unions in England, 1721-1834. 

Note. The material for the following outline is taken 
from Galton, The Tailoring Trade. 

1 72 1. Tailors' combinations and strikes in London. Act 
passed to regulate tailors. 

1725-29. A poem appears annually in Dublin, inscribed 
to the ''Ancient and Loyal Society of Journeymen Tailors" 
of that city. 

1730. Anti-combination act passed by Irish Parliament; 
trade clubs subside. 

1744-45. Widespread disturbances in London, involving 
15,000 journeymen tailors. The Privy Council directs the 
Justices of the Peace to enforce the Act of 1721. Licenses of 
five taverns revoked for harboring tailors' combinations. 

1748. Strike in Edinburgh. 21 tailors are indicted and 
their combination broken up. 

1 75 1, July. Tailors of London secure raise of about 6 d. 
per day from the Court of Quarter-Sessions. 

1 75 1. September. Journeymen again become restless and 
demand advance. A reduction of one hour a day from work- 
ing time is secured from the City Sessions of London. 

1752. Master-tailors send petition to the House of Com- 
mons setting forth grievances. Journeymen present counter- 
petition. After some argument the whole matter is dropped. 

1753. Quarter-Sessions of London grant a 12-hour day. 
1763. Another slight increase in wages is granted. 
1763-67. Period of constant dissensions in the trade. 
1767. A humorous play is produced at the Theater 

79 



80 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

Royal in the Hay market, entitled, "The Tailors; a Tragedy 
for Warm Weather." 

1768. Laws regulating tailors are again revised by Par- 
liament, largely in the interest of the masters. Journeymen 
enter a protest. Laws are evaded by both masters and jour- 
neymen, so far as the maximum wage is concerned. 

1768. Strike in Aberdeen, Scotland. 

1729-72. Ireland. Little complaint or legislation in Ire- 
land during this period with regard to combinations. 

1772. Ireland. Dublin's Trades' Clubs reviving. A special 
bill is passed by the Irish Parliament to regulate Journeymen 
Tailors. Wages and hours are established, and combinations 
forbidden. 

1772. London tailors secure raise of from 6d. to is. a 
day from the City Sessions. 

1777. Birmingham tailors strike against piece-work 
system. 

1778. A part of the master-tailors of London complain 
of the flat-rate system for all journeymen. Bills are brought 
into Parliament to change this feature. Another section of 
the masters oppose the bills. The House is bewildered and 
makes no change. 

1783. Seven tailors of Liverpool are prosecuted for 
combination. 

1797. Tailors of Aberdeen again on strike. Twelve are 
convicted of illegal combination and sentenced to fines and 
imprisonment. 

1 799- 1 800. General Combination Acts passed, affecting 
all trades. 129 

1800. Master Tailors again present petition of com- 

i29"VVebb, p. 63, Beginning with this date the tailors' history is 
taken largely from the documents collected by Francis Place, who be- 
gan life as a journeymen leather-breeches maker, becoming later a 
master tailor. This man was a leader in the movement for the repeal 
of the Combination Acts. (Webb, History of Trade Unionism, p. 85). 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 81 

plaints. Journeymen are striking for a raise from 25s. to 
30s. a week. Court of Quarter-Sessions grants 27s. ^^^ 

1805. Revival of the farce, ''The Tailors; a Tragedy for 
Warm Weather," causes a riot in London. ^^^ 

1807. Strike in London for 30s. a week. Victory for 
the men. 

1810-11. Strong association of employing tailors formed 
in London. Plans are made to fight the union. A new bill 
is presented by the masters to Parliament. The employers 
are divided and the bill is dropped. 

181 1. Further complaints and demands of employers to 
Parliament are ineffective, due largely to influence of Fran- 
cis Place. 

1812. Printed rules of a London Tailors' Club of this 
date are preserved. ^^^ 

i30Double wages, or 54 s., were to be paid in case of a "general 
mourning." 

131 An interesting account of this affair has been found in the Tailor. 
May, 1907, p. 17, entitled, "The Tailors in Riot," being reprinted from 
an article in The American Tailor and Cutter : 

"In 1769 Foote had produced a burlesque, the author of which has 
never been discovered, entitled "The Tailors ; a Tragedy for Warm 
Weather." Dowton announced the revival of this piece for his benefit. 
As the title implies, it is a satire upon the sartorial craft, and upon the 
bills being issued an indignation meeting was convened by the knights 
of the needle, who vowed to oppose the performance by might and main. 

"Menacing letters were sent to Dowton telling him that 17,000 tailors 
would attend to his piece, and one, who signed himself 'Death,' added 
that 10,000 men could be found if necessary. The threats were laughed 
at by the actors, but when night came it was discovered that the craft 
were in earnest, and with few exceptions they had contrived to secure 
every seat in the house, while a mob without still squeezed for admission. 
The moment Dowton appeared upon the stage there was a hideous uproar 
and someone threw a pair of shears at him. 

"Not a word would the rioters listen to, nor would they accept any 
compromise in the way of changing the piece. Within howled and hissed 
without intermission hundreds of exasperated tailors ; outside howled and 
bellowed thousands of raging tailors, who attempted to storm the house. 
So formidable did the riot wax that a magistrate had to be sent for and 
special constables called out, but these were helpless against the over- 
whelming odds, so a troop of life guards was ultimately summoned, who 
after making sixteen prisoners, put the rest to flight." 

i32Galton. pp. 132-145. 



82 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

1818-19. "The Gorgon," a small London periodical, con- 
tains numerous articles by F'rancis Place, describing Tailors' 
Unions of this period.^ ^^ 

1 8 19. Copies are preserved of half-yearly reports and 
balance-sheets of a Tailors' Club of this date.^^^ 

1823. Strike in Edinburgh. 

1824. Attempt to federate the tailors' clubs of London 
for benefit purposes. 

1824-25. Repeal o.f the general Combination Acts. 

1825. Strike in Birmingham. 
1828. Strike in Sheffield. 

1831-32. Tailors take active part with other workers in 
political reforms. 

1834. A big tailors' strike in London, involving more 
than six hundred shops. Masters organize firmly and replace 
men in part by women. Journeymen are completely routed. 

1834. A similar strike fails in Manchester. General 
conditions are rapidly changing. The old tailors' clubs are 
breaking up. The date is characterized by premature efforts 
at national organization and general strikes in many trades, 
led largely by Robert Owen.^^^ 

133 Ibid., pp. 146-60. 

i34Galton, pp. 161-163. 

i3 5The above outline has been purposely interrupted at the date of 
1834, as indicating a crisis in the trade, and the beginning of new types 
of organization. 



APPENDIX B. 

Constitution and By-laws of the Journeymen Tailors' 
National Union oe the United States, 1885. 

(As adopted by the Third Annual Convention, Baltimore, 
Md., August 10-15, 1885). 



Preamble' 



Whereas, We, the Journeymen Tailors' Delegates, from 
the various cities and towns of the United States of America, 
in Convention assembled, have seen the necessity of a thor- 
ough organization of our trade, and that a common cause and 
the universal sympathy with all who work at our trade, de- 
mand of us to urge the immediate unity and consolidation of 
all the various organizations throughout the United States, 
in order that we may form a common bond of brotherhood, 
having for our object the elevation of our social and moral 
standing, not only amongst other branches of industry, but 
in the community at large, and the advancing of the material 
interests of our trade, believing as we do, that it will serve 
our employers, while it elevates our condition; (therefore have 
we adopted the following Constitution and By-Laws) '}^^ 

i3GThe preamble as printed was apparently incomplete; it has been 
found necessary to change one or two words and to add the clause in 
parenthesis in order to establish the connection. 



83 



84 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 



CONSTITUTION. 

Artici^e: I. Name of the Organization. — This or- 
ganization shall be known as the "Journeymen Tailors' Na- 
tional Union of the United States." 

Articee 2. Object. — The object of this union shall- 
be to consolidate the interests of the trade throughout the 
United States, and organize unions where none exist, and in 
every legitimate way to resist the encroachments of capital. 

ArticeE 3. Officers. — The officers of the National 
Union shall consist of a President, four Vice-Presidents, Sec- 
retary, and Treasurer, who combined shall constitute the Ex- 
ecutive Board, the Secretary, Treasurer, and one Vice-Presi- 
dent to be elected from one Local Union. 

ArticeE 4. Auditors. — Two Auditors shall be elected 
from the same Local Union from which the Secretary and 
Treasurer have been elected. 

Articee 5. Duties of Officers. 

Section i. The Executive Board. The duties of the Ex- 
ecutive Board shall be executive in character; they shall have 
the power to arbitrate on all questions relating to the trade, 
and as affecting the employer and employee, and have full 
power to act, when such differences occur as cannot be settled 
by arbitration. The Executive Board shall also be required 
to furnish semi-annually a complete report of the financial 
condition of the National Union, copies of which shall be 
furnished to each local union. They shall conduct all busi- 
ness by mail or telegraph except in very urgent cases when 
they can convene by obtaining the consent of two-thirds of 
all local unions belonging to the National Union. 

Section 2. Duties of President. The President shall pre- 
side at all meetings of the National Union, preserve order, 
and enforce the laws thereof; he shall give the casting vote 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 85 

in case of a tie, and perform all such other duties as may be 
prescribed by this Constitution. 

Section 3. Duties of Vice-Presidents. The Vice-Presi- 
dents shall perform all the duties of President in his absence. 

Section 4. Duties of Secretary. The duties of the Sec- 
retary shall be to receive all dues of the National Union, for 
which he shall forward a receipt within one week for the 
same, which receipt shall be countersigned by the Treasurer, 
and he shall pay the same over to the Treasurer weekly; he 
shall conduct all correspondence between the National and 
Local Unions; he shall also be the custodian of the seal of 
the Union and shall perform such other duties as may be 
required of him in conformity with this Constitution and 
By-Laws. 

Section 5. Duties of Treasurer. The Treasurer shall be 
the custodian of all funds of the National Union, and shall 
countersign all receipts forwarded by the Secretary of the 
National Union to Local Unions for dues. He shall pay out 
all moneys vouched for by a majority of the Executive Board, 
and shall give a good and sufficient bond to the Executive 
Board, the amount of said bond to be determined by the 
Convention ; the sufficiency of the bond to be approved by the 
Local Union of which the Treasurer is a member. He shall 
also together with the Secretary deposit all funds received by 
him within one week in a reliable bank, and shall not draw 
out the same or any part thereof, without the signature of the 
Secretary of the National Union and the Trustees of the 
Union to which he belongs; an order for the payment of 
money signed by a majority of the Executive Board, shall be 
sufficient authority for the Trustees of the Local Union. He 
may retain in his possession the sum of one hundred dollars, 
and no more, for current expenses of the National Union. 

Section 6. Duties of Auditors. It shall be the duty of 
the Auditors to examine the books of the Secretary and 



86 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

Treasurer semi-annually, and report thereon to the Executive 
Board, who shall print and distribute such report to the local 
unions. 

Section 7. The term of office for all officers of the Na- 
tional Union shall expire when their successors are duly 
elected and qualified. 

Section 8. The outgoing officers shall hand over all 
books, papers, moneys, and all other property belonging to 
the National Union to their successors. 

ArticIvK 6. Travi:,i^ing and Withdraw ai. Cards. 

Section i. Members, who go traveling, will receive a 
traveling card from their Local Union; such card must be 
signed by the Secretary and presented to the Secretary of the 
Union where the holder obtains works or locates within eight 
days of time of such location. If there is no Union at the 
place, the card must be sent to the nearest Union in the 
vicinity. 

Section 2. Any member who leaves the trade or goes out 
of the country, after paying all dues, fines, etc., is entitled to 
a Withdrawal Card from the Union to which he was attached. 
Such card entitles the holder to re-admission in any Local 
Union without admission fee, provided that such member has 
not acted against the interests of the Union. 

Section 3. This National Union cannot be dissolved as 
long as five Local Unions declare in favor of its continuance. 



BY-LAWS. 



Article i. The Convention of the National Union shall 
be held biennially and commence the first Monday in August. 
The Convention before adjourning shall appoint the place for 



holding the next Convention. 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 87 

ArticIvK 2. The President shall appoint a Committee on 
Credentials, consisting of three delegates. 

Article 3. The roll of Local Unions and presentation of 
credentials shall be first in order after opening the Conven- 
tion. 

Article 4. All Local Unions shall be entitled to one 
delegate to the Convention, and all Unions of 200 members 
and under 300, shall be entitled to two delegates, and all 
Unions of over 300 members shall be entitled to three dele- 
gates and no more. 

Article 5. The Secretary is empov^ered to group small 
Local Unions before the Convention meets, to send delegates 
based on the ratio provided in the foregoing section. 

Article 6. Any Local Union may become a member of 
the National Union on application to the Secretary and pay- 
ment of an initation fee of five dollars. 

Article 7. Seven members may organize a Local Union 
where none exists ; they will be granted a charter by the 
Secretary upon application and the initiation fee. 

Article 8. Each Local Union may make its own Con- 
stitution and By-Laws, which must, however, be in accord 
with this Constitution and By-Laws. 

Article 9. Every Local Union shall pay to the National 
Secretary the monthly dues of ten cents per capita, said dues 
to be forwarded every three months with a statement of 
their condition; blanks for said statement to be furnished 
free of charge by the National Secretary; dues to be for- 
warded on the first day of October, January, April and July 
of each year. But Local Unions of over 200 members are 
recommended to pay their dues monthly. 

Article 10. Local Unions six months in arrears shall 
not be entitled to protection from the National Union until 
all arrears are paid up and they are clear on the books at 
least one month. 



88 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

Article ii. Any member out of work on account of a 
strike or lockout recognized by the Executive Board shall be 
paid four dollars per week during its continuance. 

Artici^e: 12. Whenever any Local Union intends to in- 
itiate a strike, but cannot do so without the aid of the Nat- 
ional Union, it must notify the Secretary of the National 
Union immediately; such notice to contain a full account 
of the reasons and circumstances, as well as the number of 
men expected to go on strike. 

ARTICI.K 13. No strike in any Local Union shall be sup- 
ported by the National Union unless the Local Union has 
complied with the requirements of this Constitution, and is 
duly authorized by the Executive Board. But the National 
Union shall not support any strike declared in the months of 
January, February, July and August. 

ArticIvK 14. The Executive Board may recognize and 
support any strike caused by a reduction and a lockout forced 
on the Local Union by the employers without previous notice 
of the Local Union, but no financial benefit shall be paid by 
the National Union by the Local Union for the first week 
of any strike. 

ArTici^E 15. In case of any strike or lockout, the Exe- 
cutive Board shall have power to appoint a Committee to 
effect a settlement of the differences existing between the 
employer and the employees, and if the Committee so ap- 
pointed effects a settlement, by arbitration or otherwise, and 
the Local Union refuses to comply with the terms of said 
settlement, then the Local Union shall support the strike or 
lockout from their own local funds. 

ART1C1.E 16. The Executive Board shall have power in 
case of a strike or lockout, when the funds of the National 
Union are exhausted, to declare a special levy, but not to an 
amount of more than 50 cents in any one quarter. 

Article 17. In extreme cases of a long-continued strike 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 89 

or lockout, the Executive Board shall submit to the Local 
Unions for their vote propositions for a further levy, which 
shall receive the approval of a majority of the members of 
the Local Unions, before being declared by the Executive 
Board adopted. 

ArTici^E 1 8. All levies authorized by the General Exe- 
cutive Board shall be forwarded to the National Secretary 
within thirty days after the time the same were declared. 

Artici^e 19. No Local Union shall be subject to a levy 
for the first six months of their membership in the National 
Union. 

Artici^K 20. If any member of a Local Union, having 
violated the conditions imposed upon him by the Constitu- 
tion of this Union, either leaves or is expelled from the 
same, it shall be the duty of the Local Secretary to notify the 
Secretary of the National Union of such action, who shall 
at once notify all Local Unions. Such member shall not be 
eligible to membership in any other union, until all indebted- 
ness against him by his Local Union shall have been paid. 

ARTIC1.K 21. The Secretary must be notified of every 
change of address of Local Secretaries. 

Artici^K 22. The Convention shall fix the salaries of 
officers and shall have full power to amend Constitution if 
necessary. 

Article 23. Propositions of amendments to this Con- 
stitution shall be forwarded to the Secretary of the National 
Union at least three months before the meeting of the next 
Convention, and the Secretary shall be required to notify im- 
mediately all Local Unions of such propositions. 

Article 24. The expenses of delegates to the National 
Convention shall be paid by the Local Unions they represent. 

Article 25. Expenses of the President, Secretary, and 
Treasurer of the National Union to the Annual Convention 
shall be paid from the funds of the National Union, but 



90 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

they shall not be eligible as delegates from their Local Unions. 

Artici^e: 26. No Local Union shall be entitled to any 
benefit until such union has been at least six months a mem- 
ber of the National Union, and is clear on the books of the 
National Union. 

Artici^K 27. All propositions submitted to the Local 
Unions for their approval or disapproval, shall in order to 
become legal and binding have a two-thirds majority; the 
exact number voting ''Aye" and the exact number voting 
"Nay" shall be taken by the local secretary and forwarded 
to the General Secretary, who shall compute the result and 
notify the Executive Board and Local Unions of the same. 

Articlk 28. In case of disability of any officer of the 
Executive Board, either through sickness, death or retire- 
ment, the vacancy shall be filled by the Local Union of which 
such officer was a member. 

ArTici^K 29. It shall be the duty of the Secretary and 
Treasurer to secure and carry out a uniform system of keep- 
ing the accounts of the National Union. 



RESOLUTIONS. 

1. Resolved: We declare ourselves in firm terms to be 
in true accord with all labor unions in the United States, and 
pledge them our support to bring about remedial measures in 
the interest of Labor in general. 

2. Resolved: We believe that a permanent improvement 
of the condition of the wage-working class cannot be effected 
by any means whatever, unless accompanied by a reduction 
in the hours of labor. 

3. Resolved: The Prison Contract Labor System as car- 
ried on in the prisons and penitentiaries of several states of 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 91 

the Union is economically impolitic and an insult to the feel- 
ings and an injury to the interests of the working people in 
general. We therefore urge the necessity upon all labor or- 
ganizations to demand its abolition. 

4. Resolved: We recommend the principles of co-opera- 
tion to our trade and the working classes in general when 
practicable. 

5. Resolved: That in the opinion of this Convention the 
best interest of the trade will be served by the establishment 
of a trade organ. We therefore earnestly recommend to the 
Local Unions the necessity of the same, and request the Ex- 
ecutive Board to find a paper which shall be the recognized 
organ of this Union until we start one of our own. 

6. Resolved: That we unequivocally condemn the sys- 
tem in the trade of having the work done in our homes, and 
while we recognize the system to be deep rooted, we would 
recommend the gradual substitution of the system of work- 
shops provided by the employers of trades. 

7. Resolved: We recognize the inexpediency at the pres- 
ent time of attaching a sick and burial fund to the National 
Union, but we fully recognize the benefits to be derived there- 
from, and call on all Unions to give it their most serious 
consideration and adopt it as soon as possible. 

8. Resolved: We as a body thoroughly approve of the 
object of the organized Trade and Labor Unions of the 
United States and Canada, and pledge ourselves to give it 
our earnest support. 

9. Resolved: That we recommend all Local Unions to 
attach themselves to any representative Central Labor Union 
or Trades Assembly existing in their vicinity. 

10. Whereas, the delegates to this Convention have 
after careful consideration postponed the Annual Convention 
so that no Convention will be held for two years, therefore 
be it 



92 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

Resolved, That in case any serious matter arises during 
the interim between the Conventions, or should the Constitu- 
tion or By-Laws be found insufficient or unwise, the Execu- 
tive Board shall on the united request of seven or more Local 
Unions, submit to a vote to the general body any proposition 
that seven or more Local Unions shall demand to have sub- 
mitted, and in case the propositions shall be carried the Exe- 
cutive Board shall be governed thereby.^ ^''^ 

13 7 At date of writing, the above constitution was the oldest in the 
writer's collection. Constitutions have since been discovered of 1865 and 
1884, but too late to be incorporated in this thesis. 




JOHN B. LENNON, 



APPENDIX C. 
BioGRAPHiCAi, Sketch, John B. Lennon. 

John Brown Lennon, the son of John A. and Elizabeth 
F. Lennon, was born in Lafayette County, Wisconsin, Octo- 
ber 12, 1850. When he was two years of age the family 
removed to Hannibal, Missouri, and here the greater part 
of his boyhood was spent. He had few advantages as to 
education, being obliged at the age of eleven to take hold 
with his mother and help work the small farm on which they 
lived, the father having entered the Union Army in 1861. 
John Lennon, Sr., was a tailor by trade. At the close of the 
war he reopened his shop in Hannibal, and his son started 
in to learn the trade. After a four years' apprenticeship the 
son set out for the west, and in 1869 opened a merchant 
tailoring store in Denver, Colorado. The following year his 
parents and sisters also came to Denver and his father took 
charge of the shop. After this John B. Lennon worked as 
a journeyman for various merchant tailors of Denver, con- 
tinuing this employment until about July, 1886. 

Mr. Lennon had been active in forming a tailors' union 
in Denver. This union became affiliated with the new Na- 
tional organization before the close of the convention year, 
1883. At this time Lennon was Secretary of the Denver 
union. In 1884, while acting as president of the same union, 
he was appointed as a delegate to the Chicago convention of 
the National Union. At this convention he was elected 
President of the National, and at the 1885 convention wa> 
elected one of the vice-presidents. At the New York con- 
vention in 1887 he was elected General Secretary and editor 

93 



94 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

of the official Journal, and took up his residence in New 
York, as the headquarters of the National Union. In 1896 
the general office was removed to Bloomington, Illinois, and 
the Secretary moved with his family to this locality, where 
he has continued to make his home until the present date. 
The office of Secretary he held until July, 19 10, when he was 
superseded by Mr. Eugene J. Brais, of Cleveland, Ohio. 

Mr. Lennon has been present at practically every Con- 
vention of the Journeymen Tailors' Union of America, usu- 
ally in his official capacity as an offilcer. In 1887 he was one 
of the delegates of the Tailors' Union to the Convention of 
the American Federation of Labor, and has been a. delegate 
at every one of their annual meetings since that date. At" 
the Detroit Convention in 1888 he was elected Treasurer of 
the Federation, and has been annually reelected. By virtue 
of this appointment he is a member of the Executive Coun- 
cil, and has been closely associated with Mr. Gompers, Mr, 
Mitchell, and others prominent in the labor movement. 

In recent years Mr. Lennon has become well known as a 
public speaker, especially upon the subject of Church and 
Labor and upon the Anti- Saloon movement. He has ad- 
dressed a number of large meetings in different parts of the 
country upon these subjects, and is regarded as one of the 
leaders in the fight against the liquor traffic. He is a mem- 
ber of the Committee on Social Service of the Federal Coun- 
cil of the Churches of Christ, and has taken an active part 
in the recent movement toward a closer affiliation between 
the church and the masses. 




E. J. BRAIS. 



APPENDIX D. 
BioGRAPHiCAi^ Sketch, Eugene J. Brais. 

Eugene J. Brais was born in St. John's, Quebec, June 
i8, 1880, both of his parents being of French Canadian 
descent. When he was five years of age the family moved to 
Montreal. Here he attended parochial school until the age 
of ten, when his people moved to the United States, taking 
up residence in Cleveland, Ohio. The boy attended the pub- 
lic schools in Cleveland for three years, after which he turned 
to the trades, working for about two years at printing, and 
for about three years at making and selling shoes. In 1899 
he took up the tailoring trade, and prepared himself for a 
coatmaker. 

The Brais family were all active unionists, his father be- 
ing a carpenter, and a member successively of the Knights 
of Labor and the United Brotherhood of Carpenters, while 
several brothers and sisters have been union members. Eu- 
gene J. Brais soon became prominent in the Cleveland move- 
ment, and in 1907 was elected Business Agent of the local 
Tailors' Union in that city. In 1909 he was a delegate to 
the Buffalo Convention of the Journeymen Tailors' Union 
of America, and a member of the Committee on Laws and 
Audit. At the opening of the Convention he was elected 
Chairman, and was regarded as the spokesman of the Social- 
ist or ''progressive" element. Following this Convention, he 
became a candidate for General Secretary, and when the vote 
was taken, December 13, 1909, he was elected, to take office 
July I, 1910. On this date he took up his residence in Bloom- 

95 



96 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

ington, Illinois, the location of the general headquarters, and 
continues to make his home in that city. 

In 1900 Mr. Brais became a member of the Socialist 
Party, and has since been an active leader in this movement. 
He is held to represent that element in the National Tailors' 
Union which believes in maintaining the organization for trade 
purposes, but desires in addition a more vigorous Socialist 
propaganda than the more conservative unionists. Mr. Brais 
has been a delegate to several Conventions of the American 
Federation of Labor, and is regarded as a rising leader in 
those branches of social reform in which he is interested. 



CHAPTER 4. 

Statistics of thi: Journeymi:n TaiIvOrs' Union of 

Ame:rica. 



CHAPTER 4. 

Statistics of the Journeymen Tailors' Union of 

America. 

/. Development of the Journeymen Tailors Union of 
America y 188^-ipii. 

Table i. Condition of the National Union, 188^-ipii. 

(a) Source and accuracy. The figures in this table are 
taken from the reports of the general officers to the succes- 
sive legislative sessions of the National Union. ^^^ The bal- 
ances in the general fund as indicated for the several dates 
are taken from the audited accounts and are correct. The 
number of local unions is also correct. The number of mem- 
bers on each date is given as reported by the Secretary. It 
may vary in the larger figures as much as 500 from an ac- 
curate statement, in viev^ of the fact that the membership 
was not exactly the same from month to month, changing on 
account of members initiated and members suspended for 
non-payment of dues. 

(b) Special Notes. 

I. Variations in number of locals. The rapid increase 
in the number of locals from 1887 to 1893 is explained by 
the adoption of a vigorous organizing policy, under the direc- 
tion of a paid secretary. By this means practically all of the 
scattered tailors' unions not previously affiliated were brought 
into the National, and in addition a number of new locals 
were organized. 

i3S0wing to the lack of published proceedings of the Convention of 
1883, the writer has been obliged to estimate the membership of the five 
charter locals, — New York, Philadelphia, Troy, Baltimore and Pittsburgh, 
from the membership of the same unions in 1884. 

99 



100 



STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 



From 1893 to 1899 a decline is noted, due primarily to 
the after-effects of the panic.^^^ Following this industrial 
depression, there is a steady increase in membership until 
1907, when another decline begins. This is undoubtedly due 
in the main to the rapid development of the special-order 
and agency trade, which, as suggested in a former chapter, 
has nearly destroyed old-line tailoring in some of the smaller 
towns. 

At the present date the administration is spending large 
sums of money for organizing purposes, and a special effort 
is being made to organize tailors working on the new systems. 
This policy may succeed in arresting the decline in member- 
ship. 

TABLE I. 
Condition of the National Union, 1883-1911. 









^Tumber 


Total 


Average 


General Fund 




Date 




of 


Member- 


Member- 














Locals 


ship 


ship 

per 

Local 


Balance 
on hand 


Deficit 


Balance 

per 
Capita 


Aug., 




1883 


5 


1,800 


360.0 








July 


I, 


1884 


16 


2,402 


150.0 








Aug. 


15, 


1885 


^3 


2,481 


107.9 








Aug. 


15, 


1887 


27 


2,512 


93-0 


$ 3,256 09 




$1 5.= 


Aug. 




1889 


97 


5,000 


51.5 


4,098 09 




82 


Aug. 




1891 


169 


9,014 


53.3 


8,103 69 




90 


July 




1893. 


200 


10,204 


51.0 


8,111 41 




79 


April 




1896 










688 86 




July 




1897 


181 


5,683 


314 


2,389 01 




42 


July 




1899 


151 


6,217 


41.2 


14,134 12 




2 27 


July 




1901 


202 


9,727 


48.1 


25,006 55 




2 57 


July 




1903 


308 


14,496 


47-0 


46,417 05 




3 20 


Jan. 




1905 


331 


16,000 


48.3 


32,503 49 




2 03 


July 




1907 


327 


16,000 


49.1 


87,860 03 




5 49 


July 




1909 


32s 


13,000 


40.0 


56,423 66 




4 34 


July 




1911 


310 


12,300 


39.7 


96,555 17 




.785 



2. Variations in Total Membership. 

The reasons given for the variations in the number of 

local unions from 1883 to 1897 apply with equal force to the 

i39For some time after the panic organizing work was seriously 
handicapped. In the two years, 1894 and 1895, only $1,158.02 was spent 
for organizing purposes, as compared with $2,401.15 in the single year 
1896. 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 101 

variations in total membership during the same period. The 
unusually heavy loss of membership following the panic was 
due in a large measure to the loss of the New York union, 
which left the National after a disastrous strike to resist a 
reduction in wages. ^*° In 1899 it is seen that there was a 
slight recovery of membership, although the number of local 
unions had continued to decrease. This is accounted for by 
the fact that the weak unions continued to straggle away, 
while the stronger ones were beginning to recuperate. Fol- 
lowing 1899 there is a continuous gain until 1907. During 
this period the New York union rejoined. (September i, 
1903.) After 1907 there is a decline, for the same reasons 
that have produced decline in the number of locals. 

3. Variations in Average Membership per Local. For 
the first four dates, 1883, 1884, 1885 and 1887, the averages 
do not accurately describe the greater number of the local 
unions, for the reason that on each of those dates the New 
York union alone contained in the neighborhood of half the 
entire membership. After 1887, this discrepancy is not so 
noticeable, owing to the larger number of locals. The al- 
most complete loss of the New York union between 1893 and 
1897, coupled with the general demoralization of other unions, 
produced a sharp decline in the average membership. After 
1897 the average recovers again, and follows closely the 
changes in total membership. 

4. Variations in General Pund}^'^ The term "General 
Fund," as used in the publications of the National Tailors' 
Union, refers to the balance on hand at any given date, clear 

140 A small number of members remained affiliated with the National 
Union and retained the charter, but the majority Avithdrew and later 
formed a ncAv association, which remained independent until 1903. 

i4iThe figures in this table begin with the earliest accounts that can 
be found in the official journal, The Tailor, and conclude with July i, IQII, 
the end of the latest fiscal year. The same is true of all financial state- 
ments given in this chapter. 



102 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

of all indebtedness. During the greater part of the period 
from 1883 to 191 1, the general fund was maintained as a 
single fund from which all kinds of expenses of the National 
Union, including the benefits of members, were to be paid. 
About 1 89 1 an attempt was made to maintain four separate 
funds, — an organizing fund, a funeral fund, a strike fund, 
and a general fund, but this was found impracticable, and 
was abandoned soon after the panic of 1893. A deficit is 
recorded in 1896; at this date the union had borrowed money 
in excess of its assets. 

The notable fall in the funds following the panic is shown 
clearly by the table. The other main fluctuations occur be- 
tween 1903 and 1905, and between 1907 and 1909. The 
falling off in funds in each case was due to expensive strikes. 
The large balances shown on all dates after 1899 ^^^ due to 
increases in membership and in the monthly dues.^^^ 

TABLE 2. 

Income and Expense^ Journeymen Tailors^ Union of America. 

1885-1911. 

Income. . Expense. 

Oct. I, 1885-Aug. 14, 1887 $ 5,698.99 $ 2,442.90 

Aug. 15, 1887-Jiily 31, 1889 10,370.22 9,528.22 

Aug. I, 1889-July 31, 1891 47,734-16 43,728.56 

Aug. I, 1891-June 30, 1893 76,566.11 76,558.49 

July I, 1893-June 30, 1895 64,312.45 71,056.94 

July I, 1895-June 30, 1897 45,313-84 44,291.75 

July I, 1897-J^Hie 30, 1899 45,266.22 33,576.97 

July I, 1899-June 30, 1901 73,229.00 62,300.71 

July I, 1901-June 30, 1903 113,998.72 92,588.22 

July I, 1903-Dec. 31, 1904 {iy2 yr.) 128,791.69 142,705.25 

Jan. I, 1905-June 30, 1907 (2i/4 yr.) 202,810.21 147,453.67 

July I, 1907-June 30, 1909 184,304.70 215,741.07 

July I, 1909-June 30, 191 1 197,255.92 157,124.41 

$1,195,652.23 $1,099,097-06 

Total Income, Oct. i, 1885 to June 30, 1911 $1,195,652.23 

Total Expense, Oct. i, 1885 to June 30, 1911 1,099,097.06 

Leaves balance in general fund, June 30, 1911 $ 96,555.17 

i42For details of changes in monthly dues and other sources of in- 
come, see notes to Table 2. 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 103 

Table 2. Income and Uxpense, i88yipii. 

(a) Source and Accuracy. The figures for the table of 
income and expense have been taken from the reports of the 
General Secretary to the legislative sessions of the National 
Union. These figures have been carefully audited and are 
correct. 

(b) Special Notes. 

1. The regular fiscal period of the Tailors' National 
Union is two years. It will be noticed in the table that there 
is a slight deviation from this in the case of the first, second 
and fourth periods; also that the four years from July i, 
1903, to June 30, 1907, is divided into periods of i^ and 
2^ years, instead of into periods of two years each. These 
deviations are due to the shifting of the date specified by 
the constitution for the general audit, and should be taken 
into account by the reader in comparing the amounts of in- 
come and expense for the successive periods. 

2. Sources of income. At the present date the principal 
sources of income are initiation fees and monthly dues, in- 
terest on the general fund, and income from the sale of sup- 
plies to local unions. Levies were formally an important 
item, but have now been replaced largely by increased monthly 
dues. The following statement shows the classification of 
income for the fiscal year ending June 30, 191 1.^'*'^ 

Income 01^ The Tailors' Nationai, Union, 
July I, 1910 — June 30, 191 1. 

Initiation fees and monthly dues $ 97,438 55 

Interest on general fund 2,132.41 

Sale of supplies 1,109.40 

Miscellaneous 250.02 

Total $100,930.38 

143 This statement is taken from The Tailor, July, 191 1, p. 18. 



lOi 



STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 



To understand the variations in income during the period 
covered by Table 2, it is necessary to know the history of 
the regulations of the National Union on the subject of dues, 
levies and fees. For this purpose the foUov^ing statements 
have been compiled, showing the laws as found in the suc- 
cessive constitutions of the Union. 



Laws of the Journeymen Tailors' Union of America, 
Fees and Monthly Dtjes.i 













Init. 


Reinst. 


Charter 


Mo. 


Const. 




In force. 






fee\. 


fee. 


fee. 


dues. 


1883 


Aug., 


1883-Aug., 




1884 








$ .05 


18842 


Aug., 


1884-Aug., 




1885 








.10 


1885 


Aug., 


1885-Aug., 




1887 


None 


None 


$ 5-00 


.10 


1887 


Aug., 


1887-Aug., 




1889 


None 


None 


5-00 


.10 


1889 


Aug., 


31889-Jan. 




1892 


$1.00 


$1.00 


8.00 


.25 


18924 


Jan. 


I, 1892-Jan. 




1894 


I.OO 


I.OO 


8.00 


.25 


1894 


Jan. 


I, 1894-Aug. 




1895 


1. 00 


2.00 


10,00 


.30 


18955 


Aug. 


I, i89S-Apr. 




1896 


I.OO 


2.00 


10.00 


.30 


1896 


Apr. 


I, 1896-Jan. 




1898 


1.00 


2.00 


10.00 


.30 


1898 


Jan. 


I, 1898- Jan. 




1900 


I.OO 


2.00 


10.00 


.35 


1900 


Jan. 


I, 1900-Jan. 




1902 


1.00 


2.00 


10.00 


.35 


1902 


Jan. 


I, 1 902- Jan. 




1904 


I.OO 


2.00 


10.00 


.40 


1904 


Jan. 


I, 1904-July 




1905 


I.OO 


5-00 


10.00 


.40 


1905 


July 


I, 1905- Jan. 




1908 


^ loc. fee 


3-00 


None 


.45 


1908 


Jan. 


I, 1908-Jan. 




1910 


K loc. fee 


3.00 


None 


.456 


1910 


Jan. 


I, 1910 






I.OO 


3.00 


None 


.65 



(i) The fees and monthly dues as given in this table are the amounts 
payable to the National Union. In addition each member is re- 
quired to pay local fees and local dues. Reinstatement fees are 
required of members who become suspended for non-payment of 
dues, and who want to reenter the union. Under the present consti- 
tution (1910) the local initiation fee is $1.00 in all local unions; 
the local reinstatement fee is $3.00; there is no local charter fee; 
the local dues are set by the constitution of each local union, but 
cannot be less than twenty cents a month, 

(2) At date of writing this article the texts of the 1883 and 1884 con- 
stitutions are not available. The provisions as to dues have been 
ascertained from the former secretary. 

(3) The 1889 constitution went into effect August 17, 1889, except the 
clauses on funeral benefit and organizing levies, which went into 
effect January i, 1890. 

(4)) The first five constitutions, 1883, 1884, 1885, 1887, and 1889, were 
dated the same as the convention years, because each of these 
constitutions went into effect before the close of the convention 
year. All later constitutions went into effect the first of January 
following the convention or committee meeting, and are dated ac- 
cordingly, with three exceptions: (i) The 1895 constitution went 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 105 

into effect August i, 1895, following the adoption of certain amend- 
ments submitted to a general vote by the General Executive Board 
(2) The 1896 constitution went into effect April i, 1896, following 
the adoption of further amendments submitted by the Board, (3) 
The 1905 constitution went into effect July i, 1905, following a 
convention held in February instead of in August as usual. 

(5) The constitution of 1895 is not published in book form, but can 
be found in The Tailor, August, 1895, pp. 1-.7 

(6) The 1908 constitution provides that dues shall be 45 cents a month 
until July i, 1908, when they shall be raised to 60 cents a month, 
on account of the adoption of a sick benefit. 

Laws 01^ the Journeymen TaiIvOrs' Union oe America. 
Levies and SpEciai, Assessments. 

Cofist} Provisions for Levies and Assessments. 

1883 (Constitution not available.) 

1884 (Constitution not available.) 

(i) The period during which the successive constitutions were in 
force has been given in the preceding table and is not repeated here. 

1885 (i) A Special levy may be declared, if necessary, 

by authority of the General Executive Board; 
not to exceed 50 cents per member in any one 
quarter. 
(2) In case of long-continued strikes, additional 
levies can be declared by a majority vote of 
the general membership. 

1887 Same as 1885. 

1889 (i) In case of danger of deficiency in the general 

fund, Executive Board may levy assessment of 
10 cents per member against local union treas- 
uries, but not more than twice in any three 
consecutive months. 

(2) Special strike levy, not to exceed 50 cents per 
member, can be declared by a two-thirds vote 
of the general membership. 

(3) Special convention levy, to assist in payment of 
mileage of delegates, can be declared by a two- 
thirds vote of the general membership. 



106 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

Const. Provisions for Levies and Assessments. (Con.) 

(4) Regular levy for organizing purposes, 50 cents 
per member, to be paid annually. 
1892 (i) JO cent assessment by Executive Board, same 
as 1889. 

(2) Special strike levy, same as 1889. 

(3) Special convention levy, same as 1889. 

(4) Regular organizing levy, 5 cents per member 
per month. 

1894 Provisions (i), (2), and (3) of 1892, re- 
enacted. (4), organizing levy, repealed. 

1895 Same as 1894. 

1896 Same as 1894. 

1898 (i) 10 cent assessment by Executive Board, as be- 
fore. 

(2) Special organizing assessments by Executive 
Board, not to exceed 50 cents a year. 

(3) Two regular annual 25 cent levies, to be paid 
by each member on May i and November i ; 
to be discontinued when the general fund 
reaches $10,000. 

(4) Special strike levy, not to exceed 50 cents per 
member, by majority vote of general member- 
ship. (Formerly two-thirds vote.) 

(5) Special convention levy, by majority vote of 
general membership. (Formerly two-thirds 
vote. ) 

1900 Provisions (i), (4) and (5) of 1898, re- 

enacted. 

(2) Special organizing assessments, repealed. 

(3) Two annual levies as in 1898, but not to be 
discontinued until fund reaches $30,000. 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 107 

Const. Provisions for Levies and Assessments. (Con.) 

1902 (i) 10 cent assessment by Executive Board, as be- 

fore. 

(2) Special strike levy, as before. 

(3) Special convention levy, to be declared by Exe- 
cutive Board in case the membership vote to 
have a convention. 

1904 (i) One annual 25 cent levy, to be paid by each 

member on October i ; to be discontinued when 
the general fund reaches $5.00 per member. 

(2) Special strike levy, as before. 

(3) In case of a strike lasting more than six weeks, 
the Executive Board may at their discretion 
raise the strike benefit 50 cents a day. To 
provide funds for this purpose the Board may 
if necessary declare a levy of 25 cents on each 
member of the National Union, payable at once 
from the treasuries of the local unions ; the 
local unions to reimburse their treasuries by 
collecting the levy from the members. 

1905 (i) Two 25 cent levies, annual, payable May i and 

October i, to be discontinued when general 
fund reaches $100,000. 
(2) Special strike levy, not to exceed 50 cents per 
member, to be declared by Executive Board 
when necessary, without a general vote. (For- 
merly majority vote of general membership re- 
quired. ) 
1908 Provisions (i) and (2), same as 1905. 

Note. The 10 cent assessment and special convention levy are re- 
pealed in 1904, and do not appear in an}^ later constitution. Expense 
of organizing work and mileage of delegates are paid from general 
fund, without special assessments. 



108 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

Const. Provisions for Levies and Assessments. (Con.) 

1 910 (i) Special emergency or strike levy, not to ex- 
ceed 50 cents per member per month, to be de- 
clared by Executive Board without a general 
vote. 
(All other levies repealed.) 

3. Classification of Expense. Undoubtedly the greatest 
single item of expense, when the whole period is considered, 
has been the strike benefit. As shown in a following table, 
the strike benefit from August 15, 1887 to July i, 19 11, 
amounted to $378,508.31, or a little over one-third of the 
total expense for the same period. 

The following statement shows classification of expense 
for the fiscal year ending June 30, 1911.^*^ 

Organizing expenses $24,165.40 

Sick benefits 21,256.35 

Death benefits 10,870.75 

The Tailor, printing and shipping. . 4,363.08 

Strike benefits . . . 4,330.00 

Office salaries 3,856.00 

Stationery and supplies for local 

unions and for the general office. 2,739.82 

Miscellaneous items 5,364.04 

Total expense $76,945.44 

Note. Under "Miscellaneous Items" are included small bills, such 
ais rent, postage, telegrams, etc., and also the following larger items : 
dues to AmiCrican Federation of Labor, and Canada Labor Congress ; 
services General Executive Board; services of delegates to American 
Federation of Labor; salary General Treasurer; attorney's fees, and 
premiums on bonds of general officers. 

3 44This statement is taken from The Tailor, July, 191 1, p. 18. 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 



109 



TABLE 3. 

Legislative Sessions of the Journeymen Tailors' Union 

OF America. 



Nature of 




Date. 


Place 


Reference to 


Session. 










Proceedings.^ 


Convention 


Aug., 




1883 


Philadelphia, Pa. 






Convention 


Aug. 


II, 


1884 


Chicago, 111. 


Pub. (N.Y., 1884) 


Convention 


Aug. 


10, 


1885 


Baltimore, Md. 


Pub. (N.Y., 1885) 


Convention 


Aug. 


8, 


1887 


New York, N.Y. 


Tailor, 


Oct., 1887 


Convention 


Aug. 


12, 


1889 


Columbus, Ohio 


Tailor, 


Sept., 1889 


Convention 


Aug. 


3, 


1891 


St. Louis, Mo. 


Tailor, 


Aug., 1 89 1 


Convention 


Aug. 


7, 


1893 


St. Paul, Minn. 


Tailor, 


Aug., 1893 


Committee 


Aug. 


2, 


18972 


Bloomington, 111. 


Tailor, 


Aug., 1897 


Committee 


Aug. 


7, 


1899 


Bloomington, 111. 


Tailor, 


Aug., 1899 


Committee 


Aug. 


5, 


1901 


Bloomington, 111. 


Tailor, 


Aug., 1901 


Committee 


Aug. 


3, 


1903 


Bloomington, 111. 


Tailor, 


Aug., 1903 


Committee 


Jan. 


30, 


1905 


Bloomington, 111. 


Tailor, 


Feb., 1905 


Convention 


Feb. 


6, 


1905 


Bloomington, 111. 


Tailor, 


Feb., 1905 


Committee 


Aug. 


5, 


1907 


Bloomington, 111. 


Tailor, 


Aug., 1907 


Committee 


July 26, 


1909 


Buffalo, N. Y. 


Tailor, 


Aug., 1909 


Convention 


Aug. 


2, 


1909 


Buffalo, N. Y. 


Tailor, 


Aug., 1909 



1 The writer has not as yet been able to secure complete proceed- 
ings of the 1883 convention. 

2 The vote of the membership in 1895 was adverse to holding a 
convention, so that there was a period of four years, 1893-1897, without 
any regular legislative session. 

Table 5. Legislative Sessions. 

Special Notes. The 1883, 1884 and 1885 constitutions of 
the Tailors' National Union were adopted by the conventions 
of those dates, and were not submitted to a vote of the whole 
membership. The 1887 constitution, as adopted by the con- 
vention of that year, was submitted as a unit to a general 
vote, and was approved. The 1889 constitution was not sub- 
mitted to a general vote, with the exception of certain prop- 
ositions to levy an assessment for organizing purposes, and 
to establish a funeral benefit. These propositions were sub- 
mitted to a vote of the membership, and were carried. The 
balance of the 1889 constitution went into effect by the action 
of the convention alone. The constitution of 1891, as 
adopted by the convention, was submitted as a unit to the 
membership, and was carried. The convention of 1893 



110 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

adopted certain amendments to the 1891 constitution, which 
were then submitted to the membership as separate numbered 
propositions. The propositions which were carried were then 
incorporated in the constitution of 1893. All future consti- 
tutions were amended by this method of submitting to a vote 
of the general membership the separate constitutional changes 
as approved by the convention or other legislative session. 
The body submitting amendments has not always been a con- 
vention. The General Executive Board, acting under con- 
stitutional authority, has frequently sent out amendments for 
a general vote, and on one occasion (1896), virtually took 
the place of a convention, sending out a number of proposi- 
tions, some of which were carried and embodied in the con- 
stitution of 1896. One of these propositions adopted in 1896 
made an important change in the legislative machinery. Pre- 
viously it had been the custom to send out a circular every 
two years, calling for a general vote on the question as to 
whether a convention should be held. If the vote was ad- 
verse there was no convention, and no provision was made 
for any regular legislative session until another two years 
had passed, when the vote could be taken again. If the vote 
was favorable the convention met and revised the laws. In 
those years that the convention met, it was provided that a 
Committee of five members should be appointed, known as 
the Committee on Laws and Audit, to meet just before the 
convention. This Committee was required tO' audit the books 
of the general officers, to examine proposed amendments to 
the constitution, and to make a report to the convention. By 
the amendment of 1896, the Committee on Laws and Audit 
was to be appointed in years when, by reason of an adverse 
vote, the convention did not meet, as well as in those years 
when it did. When there was no convention the Committee 
was empowered to consider amendments proposed, and to 
make recommendations and submit propositions to a general 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE HI 

vote, just as the convention would have done if it had been 
in session. The Committee v^as also to audit the books, and 
to make a report to the membership through the official Jour- 
nal. This system of optional conventions, to be replaced by 
Committees when desired, prevailed with some modifications 
until 1909. Later amendments made the membership of the 
Committee twelve instead of five, and set the optional con- 
vention period at four years instead of two, the Committee, 
however, to meet every two years, whether the convention 
met or not. It is seen from the table that for twelve years, 
from 1893 to 1905, there was no convention, the legislative 
work being done in 1896 by the General Executive Board, 
and after that by Committees. In 1909 the law was made 
mandatory so as to require the holding of a convention every 
four years. The services of the Committee before conven- 
tions are retained, but the Committee meetings between con- 
ventions are abolished. The next convention will be held in 

II. Strikes and Lockouts. 
Definitions. 

(a) Strikes. The term ''strike" is familiar, and scarcely 
requires definition. In general a strike implies that the initi- 
ative in the dispute leading to a cessation of work is taken 
by the workmen. 

(b) Lockouts. The term "lockout" is used somewhat 
indiscriminately in the tailoring trade, to indicate any of the 
following situations : 

( 1 ) All imion members discharged, and declaration made 
that no unionists will be employed. 

(2) One or more unionists discharged, on account of 
special activity in the union. 

(3) Unionists permitted to remain at work, provided 
they will bargain as individuals; employers refuse to sign 
any agreement with union. 



112 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

The question as to whether a disturbance is a strike or 
a lockout has come up in connection with the applications of 
local unions to the General Executive Board for support. 
In such cases the first situation named has always been rec- 
ognized as a lockout. The second case might be regarded as 
a partial lockout, but it is more usual to refer to the members 
discharged as "victimized." While recognizing that "victim- 
ized" members have a grievance, the union has not as a rule 
demanded their reinstatement by the employer, but has simply 
aided such members from the strike benefit until they could 
get work elsewhere. As to the third case, it may be regarded 
as nearly equivalent to the first, as the employers know that 
as a rule the members will not work under these conditions. 
However, technically speaking, it is better tO' regard a dis- 
turbance growing out of this case as a strike for enforcing 
the system of collective bargaining, rather than as a lockout. 

Closely connected with the situations named above are 
those where the employers refuse tO' employ unionists under 
any circumstances, or where they demand an agreement from 
prospective employees that they will not join a union. These 
are to be regarded as phases of the "black-list." 

If the above distinctions are followed, the greater part of 
the important controversies that have taken place in the tail- 
oring trade can be brought under the head of "strikes." 

General Strike Policy of the Tailors' National Union. 

From the very beginning it has been the policy of the 
National Union to maintain centralized control of strikes. 
The principal aid to maintaining this kind of control is the 
fact that the strike benefit fund is governed by the National 
Union. Before granting support to any local union it has 
been customary to make the following requirements : 

(i) A genuine effort must be made by the local union 
to settle the controversy by negotiation with the employers. 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 118 

before calling a strike. If such negotiation fails, a secret 
vote of the union is to be taken as to whether the members 
involved shall be called out and supported, a two-thirds vote 
to decide. 

(2) Before any strike is actually begun, full information 
must be sent to headquarters, indicating the cause of diffi- 
culty; the number of members likely to be involved; the 
likelihood of all such members responding to a strike call, 
if it is ordered; the condition of trade, and the prospects of 
success. No members must be called out until permission has 
been received from the General Executive Board. Failure 
to observe this provision debars the local union from the re- 
ceipt of benefit, and any strike undertaken without the sanc- 
tion of the Executive Board must be carried on at the risk 
and expense of the local union. 

(3) As a rule the union is requested to delay radical 
action and to keep the members at work until a representative 
of the National Union can be sent to the city to endeavor to 
secure a settlement. Many strikes have been avoided in this 
way, and the services of the national organizers in helping 
to settle local controversies are fully as important as their 
strictly organizing duties. 

The essentials of the policy outlined above may be found 
in the earliest constitutions of the National Union,^^^ and 
with some modifications have been continued to the present 
date. 

Causes of Strikes. Specific Union Policies. 

(a) Strikes to resist reduction in wages. It has been 
the uniform policy of the National Union to resist reductions 
whenever offered. There has been no deviation from this 
policy except during times of extreme industrial depression. 
In resisting reductions the union has met with a very high 

i^^See in Appendix B to Chapter 3, the By-laws of 1885, Articles 
11-15. 



114 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

degree of success, and it has been found necessary to accept 
very few reductions, except during panic times. 

(b) Strikes for increase of wages. Considerable dis- 
cretion has been exercised by the Executive Board in the 
matter of supporting demands for increased wages. It has 
been their rule for a number of years to require from local 
unior^s desiring to raise their price-bills a copy of the bill 
already paid, as well as a copy of the bill which it is desired 
to present to the employers, so that the Board can see directly 
the amount of the increase demanded. The Board has never 
placed obstacles in the way of any local union's obtaining as 
large an increase as possible by peaceable negotiations, but 
when it has been evident that a strike would be necessary, 
the Board has usually required that the local union should 
not demand more than a ten per cent increase ; and the locals 
have been strongly urged to accept a compromise of less than 
this amount, rather than to strike. This policy has been fol- 
lowed quite consistently, with the result that a very large 
part of the demands made by local unions have been settled 
on a satisfactory basis without strikes. Where strikes have 
been necessary, a large per cent have succeeded, and, as a 
rule, the gains made have been permanent. 

(c) Strikes to enforce a union shop. It is well known 
that many unionists desire to enforce the rule that all em- 
ployees of establishments shall be members of the unions, 
and that unionists shall not work with non-unionists. The 
tailors have supported this principle as firmly as any other 
trade, but have not always insisted that it should be em- 
bodied in their wage contracts. There has been a tendency 
on the part of the general officers toward conservatism in 
this matter. It has been felt that while a demand for a union 
shop contract was legitimate, in case an employer was will- 
ing to sign it, nevertheless the strike and the boycott should 
not be used to enforce this demand; this principally on ac- 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 115 

count of the strong feeling in the pubHc mind that if the 
union reserved the right of its members to quit work at will 
the employer should be conceded the right to employ at 
will.-^*^ It was then the business of the union to get the 
employees organized, if they could. There have been, there- 
fore, many contracts signed between tailors and their em- 
ployers which make no mention of the employment of union 
members only. In such cases, however, the imions have re- 
served the right to cease working for an establishment if 
new employees refuse to join, and this position has ordinarily 
been sustained by the General Executive Board. It should 
be understood that the union regulations with respect to these 
matters have come to be customary in the trade, and in a 
majority of cases are observed by employees coming into 
union shops without any strike being necessary. 

(d) Strikes to enforce a system of collective bargaining. 
Some of the most serious conflicts in the tailoring trade have 
arisen from the demands of employers that the workers in 
their employ should bargain as individuals. Sometimes the 
presentation of a new scale of prices by the men has been 
made the pretext for a demand of this kind. The imions 
have invariably refused to abandon the principle of collective 
bargaining, and in most cases the employers have given up 
their demands and made a settlement with the union com- 
mittees, although sometimes long and expensive strikes were 
necessary before this result was secured. 

(e) Strikes against home work and in favor of free 
shops. The agitation against home work has been very 
strong in the tailoring trade, especially on the part of the 
general officers of the union. During the early years of the 
official Journal, beginning with 1887, there was scarcely an 
issue that did not contain vigorous articles or editorials by 

i46Recent large strikes for enforcing a union shop, e.g., Toronto, 
appear to indicate some change in this policy. 



116 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

the general secretary on this subject. The net result of the 
movement to secure the iree shops was a considerable increase 
in the number of members working in such shops. It was 
not possible, however, to make the free shop system universal 
all over the country. The situation is well expressed by the 
Secretary in his report to the 1905 Convention : 

"While the piece system of work so largely prevails in 
our trade, it appears as though it will be almost impossible 
to completely enforce the free shop system, and this more 
because of the opposition of the journeymen tailors, than 
from the opposition of the employers. To work at home 
gives the journeyman tailor an opportunity to work for sev- 
eral different establishments, and they believe as a rule that 
this is an advantage to them, and believing that, it is almost 
an impossibility to persuade or force every one into the free 
shops."i4^ 

Strikes arising out of the question of the free shops have 
taken two forms : ( i ) Strikes to oblige employers to furnish 
free shops. (2) Strikes to oblige members to work in the 
free shops after they have been secured. The details of all 
such strikes can not be given here; the results were as noted 
above. 

(f) Strikes against the change of system. In the chap- 
ter on present conditions in the trade it was noted that there 
is a continuous tendency on the part of employers to in- 
augurate systems of cheaper production. Such systems have 
usually meant that all or part of the skilled journeymen 
would be thrown out of work, and the journeymen have 
naturally objected strongly to such changes. Strikes for the 
purpose of resisting changes in the system of production 
have been the least successful strikes in the trade. It has 
become the policy of the National Union not to support such 
strikes, as long as there is any possibility of securing an agree- 

3 47Tailor, Aug., 1905, p. 7. 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 117 

ment between the employers and the journeymen for the 
government of the new system after it is started. It is not 
always possible to reemploy all the journeymen, but fre- 
quently some of them can be reemployed, and this is consid- 
ered better, provided union conditions can be had, than a 
strike. 

The list of causes enumerated above does not, of course, 
include all possible causes of strikes in the tailoring trade, 
but it includes the most important ones. 







TABLE 


4. 








Strike 


Benefit 


Regulations, 1884 


-1910. 
















Str. hen. 


Str. hem. 














per wk.. 


per wk., 


Const. 


In forceA 


Str. ben. h~ 


egins : 


1st 6 wks. 


after 6 wks. 


1883 


1883- 18842 














1884 


1884- 1885 










$6.00 


$6.00 


1885 


1885- 1887 


8th 


day 


of 


strike 


4.00 


4.00 


1887 


1887-1889 


8th 


day 


of 


strike 


4.00 


4.00 


1889 


1889-1891 


8th 


day 


of 


strike 


5-00 


500 


1892 


1892- 1893 


8th 


day 


of 


strike 


6.00 


6.00 


1894 


I 894- I 895 


8th 


day 


of 


strike 


6.00 


6.00 


1895 


I 895 -I 896 


8th 


day 


of 


strike 


6.00 


6.00 


1896 


I 896- I 897 


8th 


day 


of 


strike 


6.003 


6.oa3 


1898 


I 898- I 899 


8th 


day 


of 


strike 


6.004 


6.oo4 


1900 


I 900- I 90 I 


5th 


day 


of 


strike 


6.oo5 


6.oo5 


1902 


I 902- I 903 


5th 


day 


of 


strike 


6.006 


6.006 


1904 


1904- 1905 


qth 


day 


of 


strike 


6.00 


6.00^ 


1905 


I 905 -I 907 


5th 


day 


of 


strikes 


6.00 


9.009 


1908 


I 908- I 909 


I St 


day 


of 


strikeio 


6.00 


9.00 


1910 


1910- 


1st 


day 


of 


strike!! 


6.00 


9.00 



1 For exact dates see table of regulations respecting fees and monthly 
dues, page 114. 

2 The constitution of 1883 is not available. 

3 "Except during the months of January, February, July and August 
of each year, during which months strike or lockout benefits shall 
be four dollars per week." (Constitution of 1896, Sec. 48.) 

4 Except four months, same as 1896. 

5 Except in January, February, July and August, when benefit shall 
be $4.50 per week. (Constitution of 1900, Sec. 54). 

6 Applies the year around ; former exceptions repealed. 

7 After a strike hais been on six weeks, the General Executive Board 
shall have power at their discretion to raise the strike benefit to 
$9.00 per week, and to levy for this purpose if necessary a special 
assessment of 25 cents on each member of the National Union, 
(Constitution of 1904, Sec. 63.) 



118 



STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 



10 



II 



"In case of any strike or lockout involving 50 per cent or more of 
the members of the Journeymen Tailors' Union of America, no 
strike benefit shall be paid for the first four weeks." (Constitution 
of 1905, Sec. 78.) The same provision is found in the 1908 and 
1910 constitutions. 

Qualifications in 1904 constitution removed; regular benefit is 
now $9.00 per week for each member involved, after the strike has 
been on for six weeks. 

But if strike is settled within four days from the beginning, no 
benefit shall be paid. If strike lasts more than four days, benefit 
shall be paid from the first day. 
Qualifications same as in 1908. 



TABLE 5. 

Expenditure for Organizing Purposes, Strike Benefits, Death Benefits, and Sick 

Benefits. 



Period. 



Aug. 15, 1887, to Aug. 
Aug. I, 1889, to Aug. 
Aug. I, 1891, to July I 
July I, 1893, to July I, 
July I, 1895, to July I, 
July I, 1897, to July I, 
July I, 1899, to July I, 
July I, 1901, to July I, 
July I, 1903, to Jan. i, 
Jan. I, 190S, to July i, 
July I, 1907, to July I, 
July I, 1909, to July I, 



I, 1889 (23.5 mo.) 

I, 1891 (2 yrs.) . 

, 1893 (23 mo.) 

189s (2 yrs.) 

(2 yrs.) 

( 2yrs.) 

(2 yrs.) 

(2 yrs.) 



1897 

1899 

1901 

1903 

1905 {iy2 yrs 

1907 

1909 

1911 



(2.5 yrs 
(2 yrs.) 
(2 yrs.) 



Org. 



$ 1,171.40 
3,793.85 
7,953-64 
1,765.91 
4,108.95 
9,186.14 
8,912.18 
16,908.32 

17,737.71 
33,998.32 
30,943.88 
40,574.31 



Strike. 



$ 3,438.00 
14,683.01 
24,369.25 
27,485.05 
12,565.95 
4,371.00 
28,463.25 
34.262.50 
84,842.45 
31,874.50 

95,817.35 
11,336.00 



Death. 



$. 



11,250.00 
29,300.00 
26,045.40 
13,852.85 
9,298.40 
10,716.19 
15,312.40 
13,678.00 
31,133.50 
22,195.63 
21,138.75 



Sick. 



30,056.00 
43,412.90 



Totals, Aug. 15, 1887, to July i, 1911 : 

For organizing purposes $177,054.61 

For strike benefits 373,5o8.3i 

For death benefits 203,921.12 

For sick benefits 73,468.90 

N. B. — Payment of death benefit began April i, 1890; of sick benefit, Jan. i, 1908 



Strike Benefit Regulations. 

Table 4. Strike Benefit Regulations^ 1884- 19 10. The 
abstract in this table is taken from the successive constitutions 
of the National Union. The table shows the amount of 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 



119 



strike benefit per week paid to each member involved in a 
strike which has been authorized by the General Executive 
Board. It is seen that the strike benefit since 1905 has been 
exceptionally liberal, being $1.50 a day or $9.00 a week for 
each member, after a strike has been on more than six weeks. 

Table 5. Expenditure for Organizing Purposes^ Strike 
Benefits, Death Benefits, and Sick Benefits. 

The figures in this table are taken from the reports of 
the General Secretary to the Conventions and Committees of 
the National Union. The primary purpose in submitting 
them at this point is to enable the reader to compare strike 
benefit with the other leading objects of expenditure by the 
Tailors' Union. 

TABLE 6. 
Strikes and Lockouts in the Tailoring Trade, 1881 — 191 1. 



Period 


M-H 



;-i 
<u en 

^ (U 

^- 


Won or 
Compromised 


■i-> 



a; > 




<u 


Percent 
Benefited of 
Total Involved 


National 
Strike 
Benefit Paid 


Jan. I, 1881— Dec. 31, 1886 

Aug. 15, 1887— July 31, 1889.... 
Aug. I, 1889— July 31, 1891.... 

Aug. I, 1891— June 30, 1893 

Tulv I 180? — Tune '^o i8q=^ 


35 

40 

219 

150 


23 

35 

185 

135 


12 

5 

34 
15 


2476 


t886 


590 


75.8 




$ 3,438.00 
14,683.01 
24,369.25 
27,485.0=; 


























Tnlv T t8qi^ — Tune "^o i8q7 
















12,565.05 


July I, 1897— June 30, 1899 

July I, 1899 — June 30, 1901 

July I, 1901— June 30, 1903 

Tulv I TOO"? Auff "?! TOO'? . . . . 


40 

78 

113 


Z2, 

72 

113 


7 
6 



1263 
1846 
1862 


1216 
1423 


47 
423 


96.3 
77.0 


4,371-00 
28,463-25 
^4,262.50 








9,014.00 


Sept. I, 1903— Aug. 31, 1904.... 

Sept. I, 1904— Aug. 31, 1905 

Sept. I, 1905— Aug. 31, 1906.... 

Sept. I, 1906 — Aug. 31, 1907 

Sept. I, 1907— Aug. 31, 1908 

Sept. I, 1908 — Aug. 31, 1909.... 

Sept. I, 1909 — Aug. 31, 1910 

Sept. I, 1910 — Aug. 31, 1911 


24 
22 
16 
22 
21 
18 
17 
13 


18 
16 
14 
19 
16 

15 

12 

8 


6 
6 

2 
3 

5 
3 

5 
5 


1 142 
641 
800 

t8io 
400 
500 
706 
169 


340 

397 

735 

1400 

420 
588 
139 


802 
244 

65 
410 

"So 

118 

30 


29.8 
61.9 
91.9 
77-Z 

84.0 

83-3 
82.3 


44,315-00 

11,414.00 

9,676.50 

21,275.00 

78,613.85 

12,960.50 

6,580.00 

9,901.00 



120 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

History of Strikes, i88i-ipii. 

Table 6. Strikes and Lockouts in the Tailoring Trade, 
i88i-ipii. 

(a) Source and Accuracy. The figures for the first pe- 
riod, covering the six years from 1881 to 1886, inclusive, are 
taken from the Third Annual Report of the United States 
Commissioner of Labor, published in 1887. They represent 
a summary of the tables already given in the text of Chapter 
3, in connection with the history of early American unions. 
These figures can not be regarded as exhaustive; they appear 
to include only the most important strikes of the period.^ *^ 

Following 1886 there is a period of eight and one-half 
months, to the middle of August, 1887, for which we have 
no record. Beginning with October, 1887, the files of The 
Tailor are available, and they give a record beginning with 
the Convention which concluded on August 15. From this 
point down to June 30, 1903, the figures are taken from the 
biennial reports of the General Secretary of the Tailors' Na- 
tional Union. For the two months from July i to August 31, 
1903, the strike benefit has been compiled from the monthly 
expense accounts in The Tailor, but the other items are not 
supplied. Beginning with September i, 1903, the reports 
found in the Proceedings of the Annual Conventions of the 
American Federation of Labor have been followed. These 
reports were furnished by the General Secretary of the Tail- 
ors' Union to the Secretary of the Federation, and are slightly 
more complete than those published by the tailors in their own 
Journal. 

i4SFor the year from August, 1884, to August, 1885, it is possible to 
check in part the completeness of the report of the U. S. Commissioner 
of Labor, by comparing his report with the one given in the Proceedings 
of the 1885 Convention of the Tailors' National Union. These Proceed- 
ings speak of eleven strikes during the year, while the U. S. Report only 
names six. Tailors' strikes are especially hard for the U. S. investigators 
to list, as they are often small affairs, and involve members working at 
home. 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 121 

There are a few gaps in the table, which will be explained 
in connection with the special notes on each period. In con- 
nection with all figures furnished by the Secretary of the 
Tailors, it should be noted that they are not to be accepted 
as mathematically exact, but are based upon the best data 
that the Secretary was able to obtain from the expense ac- 
counts of the National Union and from the correspondence 
with local unions regarding the strikes. It is believed that 
the figures are fairly reliable for purposes of comparison. 

(b) Definitions and Notation. A disturbance originating 
in several stores in a given city at about the same date is 
counted as a single strike. The writer has followed the prac- 
tice of the officers of the Tailors' Union in this matter. 
Where necessary the reports of the United States Commis- 
sioner of Labor have been modified to agree with this method 
of recording strikes. 

Each strike has been counted in the period during which 
it terminated. This is necessary in order to tabulate the re- 
sults. Strike records are based largely upon benefit paid, 
and strikes lasting only a few days, so that no benefit was 
due under the union laws, are not, as a rule, counted at all. 

Strikes by which the journeymen secured all or a part of 
their demands, or by which reductions or other aggressions 
upon the part of the employers were successfully resisted, 
are listed as "won or compromised." Strikes where the men 
went back to work without securing any of their demands, 
or where they were obliged to accept reductions, are listed as 
"lost." Members involved in won or compromised strikes are 
held to have been "benefited." Members involved in lost 
strikes are held to have been "not benefited." The term "ben- 
efited" in this connection refers to the direct result of the 
strike in question ; no attempt is made to estimate the ab- 
solute results of strikes, or to balance gains in wages and 



122 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

conditions against losses of time and expenses of union main- 
tenance. 

(c) Special Notes. 

January i, i88i-December ^i, 1886. Of the 35 strikes 
listed by the United States Commissioner during this period, 
25 took place after the organization of the National Union 
in 1883'.^*^ Neither the report of the Commissioner nor the 
Tailors' Journal contains a complete account of strike benefit 
paid for this period, and this item is therefore omitted from 
the table.^^^ Strikes during this period were comparatively 
successful, 75.8 per cent of the members involved being bene- 
fited. 

August ij, i88/-July ji, i88p. During this period unions 
formerly not affiliated were joining the National, and in addi- 
tion a number of new locals were formed. In most cases, 
upon becoming members of the national organization, the 
local unions presented new bills of prices to their employers, 
and after short strikes many of these bills were signed. The 
number of members involved is not given by the Secretary, 
but he states that during the period about one-third of the 
membership secured advances in wages averaging at least 
ten per cent.^^^ 

August I, i88p-July ^i, i8pi. Here again the exact num- 
ber of members involved in strikes is not given, but it is 
stated that of the 219 strikes reported, 52 were against re- 
ductions, the other 167 being mainly for increase in wages. 
Reductions were successfully resisted in all except 18 cases. 
Of the strikes for causes other than reductions, 151 were 

i49See table, Chapter 3. 

150 From August, 1884, to August, 1885, the strike benefit paid 
amounted to $3,286.45. (Proceedings of the 1885 Convention.) 

isiTailor, Sept., 1889, p. i. Report of the General Secretary to the 
1889 Convention. 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 123 

successful, and only i6 were lost.^^^ The large number of 
strikes during this period is explained by the rapid affiliation 
of new locals, which endeavored as a rule to improve their 
conditions at once. 

August I, i8pi-Jtine ^o, i8p^. Of 150 strikes during 
this period, 135 were successful. The remaining 15, how 
ever, that were lost, included serious strikes in Denver, Col- 
orado; Winnipeg, Canada; Erie, Pennsylvania; Steuben- 
ville, Ohio; and Bloomington, Illinois. The outcome of 
these strikes called forth the following remark in the Secre- 
tary's report: 

"In every one of the above cases and many others the 
Unions assured the General Executive Board that the de- 
mands made by the union could and surely would be secured 
by a very short contest, but the outcome proved that they 
had not the least conception of the resistance they would have 
to meet. This is the very worst kind of generalship, and no 
union should make such blunders. "^^^ During this period, 
and in fact throughout the history of the Union, the greater 
part of the strikes were for the purpose of increasing wages 
or resisting reductions. The number of members involved, 
benefited, etc., is not stated in the Secretary's report. 

July I, iSp^-June 30, i8p/. This period was largely one 
of business depression, and trade disturbances seem to have 
been so numerous that no definite record was kept by the 
Secretary, except of the strike benefit payments. In his re- 
port to the 1897 Convention appears the following state- 
ment : ''During the four years strikes and lockouts have been 
constant, and many of them were the largest that have ever 
engaged our craft on this continent. While many were lost, 
others compromised, yet we find that the majority of all sucb 

i52Tailor, Aug., 1891, p. 2. 
i53Tailor, Aug., 1893, p. 2. 



124 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

conflicts were won by our unions. "^^* By all odds the most 
important of the strikes during this period was that in New 
York City. In June, 1894, while business was still suffering 
from the recent panic, fourteen of the leading merchants of 
New York notified their men individually that after June 23, 
all work must be done at a ten per cent reduction. The 
bosses, moreover, refused to carry on any negotiations with 
the union, or to recognize union committees. ^^^ A bonded 
agreement was entered into by the employers, with a $1000 
forfeit and a $50 penalty in case of violation. This agree- 
ment bound the parties concerned to make a reduction in 
wages amounting to not less than ten nor more than fifteen 
per cent, and set forth in justification for this action that the 
reduction was to be ''temporary and provisional only," until 
the industrial crisis should be passed. ^^^ The journeymen 
determined to resist the reduction, and the support of the 
National Union was secured. In view of the low condition 
of the general fund ($3,924.87 on July i, 1894), the National 
Union did not promise full strike benefit, but undertook to 
raise money by every means in its power, and to give as 
much assistance as possible. ^^^ With the aid of loans from 
local union treasuries, and the additional aid of a special 
levy, which was ordered by a vote of the general membership 
in accord with the constitution, the National Union was en- 
abled to pay to New York during this strike the sum of 

i54Tailor, Aug., 1897, p. 2. For two years from Oct. i, 1895, to Sept, 
30, 1897, statistics of tailors' strikes are given in the American Federa- 
tion of Labor report. These indicate that during the period named there 
were 55 strikes, of which 43 were won or compromised, and 12 were 
lost. 2,782 members were involved, but the number benefited and not 
benefited is not stated. These figures are not inserted in Table 6, for the 
reason that they do not follow the fiscal periods of the Tailors* Union, 
which have been used as the basis for the early part of that table. 

i55Tailor, July, 1894, p. 4. 

150 Tailor, Sept., 1894, pp. 2-3. 

i-'j'J'Tailor, Aug., 1894, p. 9. 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 125 

$10,817.05.^^^ In spite of this liberal support the strike was 
lost, and it was called off September 29, 1894.^^^ As indicated 
in the special notes to Table i, the result of this strike was 
the almost complete loss of the New York Union. 

July ly i8py-June jo, i8pp. For this period little special 
comment is recjuired. Business conditions were much better 
than during the preceding period, and strikes were generally 
short and successful. The strike expense was small, and the 
percentage of members benefited (96.3 per cent), was higher 
than for any other similar period for which this item is re- 
corded. 

Jtily I, i8pp-June jo, igoi. The table gives the essential 
facts for this period. No reductions were accepted by the 
unions, the six strikes lost being for increase of wages or 
for the free shops. The strike benefit bill for the period was 
rather high, ($28,463.25). The greater part of this was 
expended on a few contests. ^^^ 

July I, ipoi-June 50, 1903. It is difficult to express in 
statistical form the situation during this term. As reported 
by the Secretary, there was no strike during this period which 
was lost completely. ^^^ At the same time it would not be 
correct to say that all the members involved were benefited, 
for the reason that in some cities the union lost control of 
certain establishments, but obtained a victory in others. It 
has therefore been decided in posting the table to report all 
strikes as "won or compromised," but to make no attempt 
to give an exact division of the number involved into those 
benefited and those not benefited. It seems certain that the 
unions came very near to winning all of their strikes during 
this period. The strike benefit paid was greater than for any 

issTailor, Nov., 1894, p. 8. 
i59Tailor, Oct., 1894, p. 8. 
iGOTailor, Aug., 1901, p. 3. 
i^iTailor, Aug., 1903, p. 3. 



126 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

previous term of equal length. About half of the entire sum 
was paid to three local unions: Buffalo, New York; Dallas, 
Texas; and Washington, D. C. 

July I J ipoj-Aug. ^i, ipo^. Only the strike benefit is 
listed for these two months. The division is inserted to bridge 
the gap between the report of the Tailors' Secretary to the 
Committee in 1903, and his report to the American Federa- 
tion of Labor for the term beginning Sept. i, 1903. 

Sept. ly ipo^-Aug. ji, 1^04. During this year the strike 
benefit paid amounted to $44,315.00, or more in a single year 
than in any two years previous. This great expense was due 
in the main to strikes in five cities: Kansas City, Denver, 
Binghamton, N. Y., Milwaukee, and Cleveland. The situa- 
tion in these cities was somewhat similar to that in New York 
in 1894, as the merchants were organized and were deter- 
mined to break the power of the unions. This effort, which 
was backed in a large measure by a national union of mer- 
chants, known as the Merchant Tailors' Protective Associa- 
tion, was contemporaneous with the formation of ^'union- 
smashing" employers' associations in a number of industries. 
The strikes in the five cities mentioned above were disastrous 
to both merchants and men. In some cases the unions suf- 
fered a technical defeat, being obliged to call the strike off 
without securing any formal recognition or concession from 
the bosses. The unions were not, however, destroyed, and 
after a few months were about as strong as ever, while the 
bosses never recovered completely the trade they had lost 
during the trouble. While these large strikes were pending 
the Executive Board of the Tailors' National Union employed 
their authority to prevent strikes elsewhere, in order that the 
defense might be concentrated in the cities were the Employ- 
ers' Associations were strongest. By this policy it was found 
possible to finance the strike without incurring any deficit in 
the general fund, and there is no doubt that the firm resist- 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 127 

ance of the unions discouraged the employing tailors of the 
country from similar tactics in other localities. 

Sept. I. ipo4-Ang. ^i, 190J. (Three periods.) During 
these three years it is seen that the percentage of success rises 
very materially, and that the cost of strikes is considerably 
lower than in 1903-1904. The struggles of the previous year 
seem to have had a salutary effect, and to have disposed both 
sides toward a more conciliatory attitude. 

Sept. I, igoj-Aug. 51, igog. (Two periods.) During 
this time the very large sum of $91,574.35 was paid for strike 
benefit. Of this more than two-thirds was paid to five cities : 
Los Angeles, California; Ithaca, New York; Kingston, On- 
tario, Canada; Philadelphia, Pennsylvania; and Oakland. 
California. The most serious contest was that in Los An- 
geles, which was a part of the general movement in that city 
against trade unionism. The employing tailors "locked out" 
all of their workmen, 112 in number, and gave notice that 
union men would not be employed. The local union in Los 
Angeles made an exceptionally vigorous defense, which was 
aided by the National Union, by other local unions, and by 
the American Federation of Labor. As a result the employ- 
ers' combination was broken, and at the end of the strike the 
Los Angeles union had more members and more union shops 
than at the beginning. 

It will be noticed in the table that for the year 1907- 1908 
the last three columns are not posted. This is for the reason 
that the figures required do not appear in the American Fed- 
eration of Labor report for 1908, probably for the reason 
that the Los Angeles strike was still pending on August 31^ 
1908, and the results could not be given. 

Sept. 1, ipop-Aug. ji, ipii. (Two periods.) During 
the last two years covered by the table, it is seen that the 
expense of strikes was comparatively low, and that a large 
percentage of the members involved were benefited. This is 



128 



STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 



an illustration of the same fact shown five years before, that 
a successful resistance by the journeymen in severe contests is 
worth while from the union standpoint, and reduces materially 
the future trouble that they have to meet. 

///. Wages and Conditions of Union Tailors, 
January i, ipi2. 

Plan of investigation. In December, 191 1, a circular was 
sent out to the corresponding secretaries of all local unions 
affiliated with the Journeymen Tailors' Union of America. ^^^ 
It was requested that returns be made by February i, 1912. 
A number of unions responded later than this, and the tables 
were held open until April 15, at which time the form was 
made up, and all returns later than that date are excluded. 
Of 308 unions affiliated at date of circular, 73 responded in 
time to be listed. List of local unions and copy of question- 
naire are herewith submitted. 



IvOCAIv UNIONS AFPlIylATED WITH THK JOURNBYME^N 
TAII^ORS UNION OF AMERICA, DKCE^MBER 15, 1911. 



Alabama. 

75 — Birmingham. 
145 — Montgomery. 
242 — Mobile. 
260 — Dothan. 

Arkansas. 

36— Little Rock. 

73 — Fort Smith. 
140 — Hot Springs. 
416 — Helena. 

California. 

2 — San Francisco. 
81 — Los Angeles. 
82 — ^Los Angeles. 
84— Stockton. 



107 — Sacramento. 
108 — San Jose. 
159 — ^Palo Alto. 
266 — Oakland. 
277 — ^San Diego. 
339 — ^Bakersfield. 
366 — Fresno. 
414 — Eureka. 

Canada. 

23 — Peterboro, Ont. 

30 — London, Ont. 

33 — Woodstock, Ont. 

58 — Haileybury, Ont. 

70 — Winnipeg, Man. 
114 — ^Windsor, Ont. 
117 — Brantford, Ont. 



132 — Toronto, Ont. 
138 — Lethbridge, Alta. 
141 — St. Thomas, O'nt. 
142 — Victoria, B. C, 
143 — Ottawa, Ont. 
149 — Hamilton, Ont. 
156 — West Toronto, Ont. 
17s — ^Revelstoke, B. C. 
178 — Vancouver, B. C. 
183— Amherst, N. S. 
191 — Fort William, Ont. 
194 — ^Calgary, Alta. 
226 — Sudbury, Ont. 
233 — Edmonton, Alta. 
235 — St. Catherines, Ont. 
241 — Sarnia, Ont. 
252 — Rossland, B. C. 
262 — Brockville, Ont. 



i6 2Through the courtesy of Mr. E. J. Brais, National Secretary of 
the Tailors' Union, it was made possible to have this circular sent out 
from the National Headquarters, with the endorsement of the general 
office, and at their expense. 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 



129 



263 — Kingston, Ont. 
264 — Berlin, Ont. 
275 — Regina, Sask. 
297 — Guelph, Ont. 
317 — Miontreal, Que. 
355 — Cornwall, Ont. 
409 — Halifax, N. S. 
410— St. John's, N. F. 

Colorado. 

3 — Denver. 
21 — Leadville. 
102 — Pueblo. 
150 — Colorado Springs. 
280 — Victor and Cripple 
Creek. 

Connecticut. 

7 — Danbury. 

22 — New Haven. 

28 — Bridgeport. 

95 — Stamford. 
139 — Hartford. 
171 — New Haven. 
364 — South Norwalk. 

District of Columbia. 
188 — Washington. 

Florida. 

279 — Pensacola. 
319 — Jacksonville. 

Georgia. 

51 — Atlanta. 
128 — Macon. 
174 — Savannah. 
206 — Columbus. 
216 — Augusta. 
269 — Bainbridge. 

Idaho. 

170 — Boise. 
261 — Wallace. 

Illinois. 

5 — Chicago. 

8 — Champaign. 
19 — Peoria. 
24 — Bloomington. 
34 — Rock Island. 



60 — Decatur. 

65— De Kalb. . 
115 — Joliet. 
129 — ^Alton. 
135— Springfield. 
152 — Danville. 
161 — Rockford. 
169 — Galesburg. 
180 — Quincy. 
190 — Streator. 
212 — Jacksonville. 
222 — Ottawa. 
223 — Elgin. 
281 — Canton. 
294 — Belleville. 
298 — Murphysboro. 
337 — Kankakee. 
360 — ^Pekin. 
368— Mattoon. 
370 — Moline. 
375 — Chicago Heights, 
376 — Freeport. 
426 — Pontiac. 
428 — Dwight. 

Indiana. 

16 — South Bend. 

31 — Terre Haute. 

32 — Peru. 
100 — Anderson. 
118 — Ft. Wayne. 
146 — ^Elwood. 
154 — 'Marion. 
157 — Indianapolis. 
165 — Richmond. 
220 — Logansport. 
234 — Muncie. 
254 — Vincennes. 
296 — Elkhart. 
331 — Wabash. 
362 — Kokomo. 

Iowa. 

15 — Des Moines. 

42 — Waterloo. 

63 — Ottumwa. 

72 — Dubuque. 
109 — Fort Dodge. 
147 — Oskaloosa. 
158— Fort Madison. 
160 — Cedar Rapids. 
177 — Keokuk. 
207 — Burlington. 



230 — Clinton. 
231 — Council Bluflfs. 
232 — Sioux City. 
300 — Davenport. 
346 — Centerville. 

Kansas. 

9 — Leavenworth. 
20 — Wichita. 
120 — Topeka. 
122 — Parsons. 
127 — Atchison. 
286 — Salina. 
287 — Arkansas City 
378 — Independence. 

Kentucky. 

49 — Louisville. 
124 — Owensboro. 

Louisiana. 
187 — New Orleans. 

Maryland. 
4 — Baltimore. 

Massachusetts. 

12 — Boston. 

26 — Springfield. 
103 — Lowell. 
105 — Brockton. 
168 — Northampton. 
245 — Holyoke. 
295 — Pittsfield. 
353 — North Adams. 
403 — Andover. 

Michigan. 

29 — Grand Rapids. 

83 — Saginaw. 
121 — ^Kalamazoo. 
202 — Battle Creek. 
210 — Ann Arbor. 
229 — Detroit. 
240 — Port Huron. 

Minnesota. 

88— St. Paul. 
89 — Minneapolis. 
97 — Duluth. 
303 — Grand Rapids. 



130 



STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 



306 — Virginia. 
315— Hibbing. 

Missouri. 

6 — Sedalia. 

II — St. Louis. 

61 — St. Joseph. 

64 — Kansas City, 

76 — Springfield. 
113 — ^Kansas City. 
250 — Poplar Bluff. 
283 — Hannibal. 
290 — Joplin. 
382— Moberly. 

Montana. 

25 — Butte City. 

43 — Great Falls. 
151 — Anaconda. 
265 — Helena. 

Nebraska. 

92 — Omaha. 
273 — ^Lincoln. 

New Jersey. 

']'] — ^New Brunswick. 
199 — Paterson. 

New York. 

14 — Troy. 

18 — Poughkeepsie. 

45 — ^Syracuse. 

46 — Buffalo. 

52 — Binghampton. 

69 — Schenectady. 

87 — Rome. 

91 — Elmira. 

93 — Ithaca. 
172 — Niagara Falls. 
176 — Salamanca. 
198 — Albany. 
259 — Rochester. 
326 — Gloversville. 
390 — New York City. 
396 — 'Cortland. 

North Carolina. 

123 — Wilmington. 
148 — Rocky Mount. 
267 — ^Winston-Salem. 
422 — Charlotte. 
423 — Asheville. 



North Dakota. 
237— Fargo. 

Ohio. 

27 — Columbus. 

41 — Akron. 

48— Niles. 

50 — ^Bucyrus. 

53 — Youngstown. 

94 — Delaware. 

98 — Zanesville. 
no — Findlay. 
144 — ^Canton. 
155 — Cincinnati. 
162 — ^Cleveland. 
163 — Lima. 
166— Toledo. 
181 — Steubenville. 
203 — Springfield. 
205 — Massillon. 
248 — Fremont. 
249 — Mansfield. 
251 — Newark. 
253 — Coshocton. 
272 — ^East Liverpool. 
284 — Cambridge. 
ZIZ — ^Norwalk. 

Oklahoma. 

227 — Muskogee 

271 — Tulsa. 

314 — Oklahoma City. 

Oregon. 
74 — Portland. 

Pennsylvania. 

ID — ^Warren. 

56 — Philadelphia. 

57 — Franklin. 

(i7 — Erie. 
Id — Meadville. 
119— Oil City. 
125 — Ridgway. 
130 — New Castle. 
131 — Pittsburg. 
196 — Williamsport. 
258 — Wilkesbarre. 
288— Bradford. 
308 — Dubois. 
309 — Hanover. 
322 — Washington. 
348 — Lancaster. 



381 — Allentown. 
419 — Sharon. 

Rhode Island. 
13 — Providence. 

South Carolina. 

17 — Charleston. 
201 — Columbia. 
305 — Greenville. 

South Dakota. 

221 — Sioux Falls. 
393 — Aberdeen. 

Tennessee. 

38 — Knoxville. 
79 — ^Memphis. 
85 — Nashville. 
276 — Chattanooga. 

Texas. 

78— Dallas. 

96 — Waco. 

99 — Fort Worth. 
126 — Palestine. 
1 53^ Paris. 
214 — San Antonio. 
247 — Houston. 
321 — ^Beaumont. 

Utah. 

59 — Salt Lake City. 
Ill — Ogden. 

Virginia. 

40 — Norfolk. 

44 — Richmond. 

47 — Lynchburg. 

54 — Danville. 
197 — Roanoke. 
292 — Charlottesville. 

Washington. 

68 — Tacoma. 

71 — Seattle. 
104 — Raymond. 
106 — Spokane. 
112 — Olympia, 
21 1 — B'ellingham 
238 — North Yakima. 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 131 

335 — Everett. Wisconsin. 213 — Kenosha. 

399— Hoquiam. 35— Oshkosh. 215— Madison. 

Wtest Virginia 55-Portage.' 225-Fond du lac. 

Wtest Virginia. 66— LaCrosse. 282— Green Bay. 

133 — Huntington. 86 — Milwaukee. 328 — Manitowoc. 

137— Charleston. 164— Superior. 361— Wausau. 

246— Wheeling. ^7^-Eau Claire. 384— Watertown. 

285— Fairmont. 192— Ashland. 427— Racine 

379 — Clarksburg. 209 — Neenah. ' 

CIRCUL.\R OF INFORMATION. 
(To be returned to Headquarters on or before Feb'y i, 1912). 

T. What was the date of organization of the earliest Tailors' Union 
in your city of which you have any knowledge ? 

2. When was your present union organized ? 

3. Number of members in good standing January i, 1912? 

4. How many members working in free shops ? 

5. How many legitimate merchant tailoring establishments in your 

city ? 

6. How many of these establishments are union shops? 

7. What is the average price to customers of suits made by firms 

employing your members ? Highest ? 

Lowest ? 

8. How many non-union tailors now employed in your city, who would 

be eligible to join the J.T.U. of A? 

9. Are average wages of union tailors in your city higher than those 

of non-union tailors? What is the per cent of 

difference ? 

10. How many of your members on the "sectional" or team system? 



11, What is the full amount of dues paid by your members, both local 

and national ? 

12. How many apprentices are learning the trade with your members? 



13. What is the rule of your union regarding helpers? 

14. Does your union limit the hours of labor ? 

15. How many of your members work by the week? 

16. What is the average wage per week of weekly workers, when work- 

ing full time? 

( 1 ) Of j ourneymen 

(2) Of helpers 

17. Does your local union use the label? 

18. What do you estimate to be the per cent of increase in your price 

bills since your local union was organized ? 

(If vour local was in existence before 1883, give increase since 
1883.) 

19. Please fill out the following schedule of prices, showing wage con- 

ditions in 1890 and in 191 1. Put in the prices paid for finished 



132 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

garment in each case, including start, try-on, and all extras. If 
your union was not in existence in 1890, please give in the first 
column the prices paid in the year your union was organized. 



S. B. Sack Overcoat 


Price Paid, 
1890. 


Price Paid, 
1911. 


D. B. Sack Overcoat 






D. B. Frock Overcoat 






D. B. Prince Albert Coat 






D. B. Sack Coat 






S. B. Sack Coat 






Trousers 






Vests 







Weekly Wage, 1890. 
Weekly Wage, 191 1. 



20, Please answer the following questions, after consulting with mem- 
bers who have kept wage accounts in 191 1 or previous years: 
(i) What are the average yearly earnings of coatmakers in your 
city ? 

(2) Of vestmakers ? 

(3) Of trousers-makers ? 

(4) Of bushelmen ? 

(5) Of weekly workers? 

(6) Of helpers? 



Returns of Local Union No of. 



The undersigned officers hereby certify that the above replies are correct. 

President 

L. U. Seal. 

Cor. Secretary. 

Probable accuracy of returns. The following questions 
were of such a nature that the secretaries could answer them 
from personal knowledge, or with the aid of the union rec- 
ords. The returns on these questions may therefore be ac- 
cepted as accurate : 

2. When was yotir present union organized? 

3. Number of members in good standing January t, 
1912? 

4. How many members working in free shops? 

6. How many of these (merchant tailoring) establish- 
ments are union shops? 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 133 

7. What is the average price to customers of suits made 

by firms employing your members ? Highest ? 

Lowest ? 

10. How many of your members work on the sectional 
or team system? 

11. What is the full amount of dues paid by your mem- 
bers, both local and national? 

12. How many apprentices are learning the trade with 
vour members? 

13. What is the rule of your union regarding helpers? 

14. Does your union limit the hours of labor? 

15. How many of your members work by the week? 

16. What is the average wage per week of weekly work- 
ers, when working full time? i. Of bushelmen? 2. Of 
helpers ? 

17. Does your local union use the label? 

Concerning the remaining questions some special comment 
is necessary : 

I. What was the date of organization of the earliest 
tailors' union in your city of which you have any knowledge ? 

Most of the secretaries have answered this question, and 
there is no doubt that there was a union in the city on the 
date named. It is probable, however, that in some cases this 
union was not the earliest, although it may have been the 
earliest under the present National Union. To avoid con- 
fusion we have copied the returns just as given, and have 
not attempted to supply dates from other sources. 

5. How many legitimate merchant tailoring establish- 
ments in your city?^^^ ' 

This will be reported quite accurately from the smaller 
cities; in the larger cities the figures must be regarded as 

i63For definition of "legitimate merchant tailoring," see special notes 
to Table 7. 



134 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

approximate only, in view of the fact that there are a great 
many small shops, and without an exact census perfect ac- 
curacy would be impossible. 

8. How many non-union tailors now employed in your 
city, who would be eligible to join the Journeymen Tailors' 
Union of America? 

As in question 5, returns will be accurate from small 
cities, but only approximate from larger ones. 

9. Are average wages of union tailors in your city higher 
than those of non-union tailors? What is the per cent of 
difference ? 

It is the general impression of the secretaries that Union 
wages are higher than non-union, but the per cent of differ- 
ence, if reported at all, must be regarded as approximate, in 
view of the fact that in many cases no direct comparison has 
been made. 

18. What do you estimate to be the per cent of increase 
in your price bills since your local union was organized? 

There is so great a probability of inaccuracy in connection 
with the returns from this question, due mainly to the com- 
plexity of the piece-scales, that it has been concluded not to 
use the figures at all except in a few cases. ^^* 

19. Schedule of wages, 1890 and 191 1. 

With regard to the second date, 191 1, the returns may 
be regarded as accurate, being copied in practically all cases 
from actual scales of prices. The same will be true in most 
cases of the first date, but in some cases the secretary may 
have depended upon the memory of old members, in which 
case the returns would not be so reliable. It is believed, how- 
ever, that as a rule the unions that could not get accurate 
figures did not report at all, and that the returns received 
are reasonably good. 

i64See special notes, Table 9. 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 135 

20. Average yearly earnings of coatmakers, vestmakers, 
etc. 

It is probable that these have not been based upon actual 
accounts kept except in a few cases, and that upon the whole 
they are simply estimates. The accuracy will vary consid- 
erably as between different unions. It is the belief of tailors 
whom we have consulted that in general the estimates are too 
low. There is an unusual difficulty about calculating yearly 
wages in the tailoring trade, in view of the fact that the 
hours are exceedingly irregular, ranging from 18 to 20 hours 
a day down to zero in the dull seasons. The figures are 
submitted as given by the Secretaries, and an opportunity 
may arise at some future time to check them with greater 
accuracy. 

Guide to the tables. 

The returns from Questions i, 2, 3, 5, 6, 8, 11, and 17 
are found in Table 7. 

The returns from Questions 4, 10, 12, 13, 14, and 15 are 
found in Table 8. 

The returns from Questions 3, 7, 9, 16, 18, 19, and 20 
are found in Table 9. 

Classification by geographical sections. In listing returns 
the classification employed by the United States Census Bu- 
reau in its bulletins of population is adopted, as follows : 

Section. States. 

New England Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, 

Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Con- 
necticut. 
Middle Atlantic New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania. 

East North Central Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, Wis- 
consin. 
West North Central Minnesota, Iowa, Missouri, North Da- 
kota, South Dakota, Nebraska, Kan- 
sas. 



136 



STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 



South Atlantic Delaware, Maryland, District of Co- 

lumbia, Virginia, West Virginia, 
North Carolina, South Carolina, 
Georgia, Florida. 

Kentucky, Tennessee, Alabama, Miss- 
issippi. 

Arkansas, Louisiana, Oklahoma, 
Texas. 

Montana, Idaho, Wyoming, Colorado, 
New Mexico, Arizona, Utah, Ne- 
vada. 

Washington, Oregon, California. 

Returns from Canada have been listed after the Pacific 
division. 

At date of circular the Journeymen Tailors' Union oi 
America had local branches in all states except Maine, New 
Hampshire, Vermont, Delaware, Mississippi, New Mexico, 
Arizona, and Nevada. 



East South Central 
West South Central 
Mountain 

Pacific 



Summary oi^ Returns^ by Skc'Tions. 





Unions 


Aggregate 


Section 


Reporting. 


Membership 


New England 


5 


186 


Middle Atlantic 


lO 


i>450 


East North Central 


25 


1,898 


West North Central 


10 


573 


South Atlantic 


5 


153 


East South Central 


I 


21 


West South Central 


5 


102 


Mountain 


2 


69 


Pacific 


7 


866 


Canada 


3 


155 



Totals 



1Z 



5.473 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 



13' 



It is seen from the above table that at least one union 
reported from every section, and that in all 73 unions re- 
ported, with an aggregate membership of 5,473. 



List o^ Cities of More than 100,000 Inhabitants, erom 
WHICH Returns have been Received, Arranged in 
THE Order oe their Population, Together with 
THE Union Membership in each City. 

Union 
Membership 



City. 
New York 
Chicago 
Boston 
Cleveland 
Baltimore 
Pittsburgh 
Buffalo 
San Francisco 
Milwaukee 
Kansas City 
Seattle 
Indianapolis 
St. Paul 
Portland 
Atlanta 
Winnipeg 
Lowell 



1,000 

1,000 

61 

150 

16 

100 

165 
300 

153 
230 

265 

82 

no 

185 

100 
100 

30 



Total membership in 17 cities 4,047 

The above list is inserted for reference purposes, and also 
as indicating that of the 5,473 members reported from 73 
cities, 4,047 are in the 17 cities named above, or 72.9 per 
cent. 



TABLE 7. 

GENERAL STATISTICS. 

STATISTICS OF ORGANIZATION. 

January i, 19 12. 



140 



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IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 



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144 . STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

Table /. General Statistics. Statistics of Organization. 

(a) Notation. Dotted lines (....) indicate that no answer 
was returned by the Secretary upon the particular point invol- 
ved. A blank in any square indicates "zero" or "none." 

(b) Special notes. 

1. Local union number. This is the serial number of the 
local union in the filing system at the general headcjuarters, 
and has nothing to do with the locality of the union or its 
date. 

2. Population ipio. Ths is taken from the latest bulle- 
tins of the United States Census, with the exception of the 
three Canadian cities, the population of which is taken from 
the Commercial Handbook of Canada (Heaton's Annual). 
In the table the cities are arranged in each state in the order 
of their population. 

3. ''Date of earliest iinion' and ''Date of present union'' 
refer to the date of organization of the local union. 

4. Pull monthly dues. This is the sum of the local and 
national dues paid by each member in the city named. 

5. "Use the label?" According to the law of the National 
Tailors' Union, the union label is the property of the Union, 
and may be affixed to garments under the following condi- 
tions: (i) The garment must be made by a member of the 
union. (2) All tailors working for the employer for whom 
the garment is made must be members of the union. (3) 
The bill of prices paid must be in accord with an agreement 
with the union. The label is protected under the copyright 
laws of most of the states, and journeymen or employers who 
affix it contrary to the above conditions can be prosecuted un- 
der statute law. 

6. The term, "merchant tailoring establishment," as used 
in this table, is equivalent to the term "legitimate merchant 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 145 

tailoring establishment," as used in Question 5 of the ques- 
tionaire, and the returns from that question are given in this 
part of the table. The term applies to establishments in 
which custom work of a high grade is made in the home 
city by skilled journeymen. It excludes houses making work 
on a factory system and selling at a distance through agenies. 

7. Union shops. The term ''union shop" applies to the 
business establishment, and must not be confused with the 
term ''workshop." An establishment is called a "union shop" 
if all the journeymen employed are members of the union, 
and are working under a scale approved by the union. Thus 
an establishment might be a union shop, and at the same time 
there might be no workshop furnished by the employer, the 
work being made in private shops or at home. 

In some cases the secretary has reported all establishments 
as union shops, and at the same time has reported a few 
non-union tailors in the city. In such cases it is probable 
that the non-union tailors are working in ready-made cloth- 
ing stores or repair shops, or in factory shops, which are 
not reported as "legitimate merchant tailoring establish- 
ments." 

8. Not union shops. The term "not union" has been 
employed instead of "non-union," for the reason that the 
latter is sometimes held to imply that all employes of the 
establishment are non-unionists, whereas in some of the es- 
tablishments which are not "union" there are both unionists 
and non-unionists working. 

9. Custom tailors. The "total" given in the third column 
under this head is found by adding to the membership of 
the union the number of non-union tailors in the city who 
would be eligible to join, as reported by the secretary. Eli- 
gibility of tailors to membership in the Journeymen Tailors' 
Union of America is determined by the following rules in 
the constitution : (1910.) 



146 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

"Section 2. The jurisdiction of the Journeymen Tailors' 
Union of America shall be the United States and Canada, 
covering all tailors, helpers, apprentices and bushelmen en- 
gaged in the production of custom made clothing. (Custom 
made clothing to be interpreted as all clothing made for men 
or women to the order and measure of each individual cus- 
tomer). Bushelmen working on alterations in ready-made 
stores shall be eligible to membership. 

''Section 175. Resolved, that the Journeymen Tailors' 
Union of America claim jurisdiction over all workers en- 
gaged in the manufacture of legitimate custom tailoring, no 
matter what system of work is used." 

10. General note. All statistics in this and the following 
tables, with the exception of the data respecting early wages, 
in Table 9, are given as of the first of January, 191 2. 

(c) Analysis and conclusions. 

1. Dates of organisation. The significant fact shown 
under this head is that a large number of the unions have 
been reorganized since their first appearance. Some unions, 
in fact, have been reorganized several times. 

2. Membership. The membership does not bear as close 
relation to the population of the towns and cities in which 
the unions are located as might be expected. Local condi- 
tions cause wide discrepancies. For example, in Buffalo, 
with about 400,000 inhabitants, there are 165 union tailors, 
whereas in Baltimore, with more than 500,000, there are 
only 16. The relation of membership to the total number 
of tailors in each city is taken up under the head of ''custom 
tailors." 

J. PitU monthly dues. As explained in connection with 
Table 2, the present law of the union requires that national 
dues shall be 65 cents a month, and local dues shall be not 
less than 20 cents a month. Of 72 unions reporting, 50 en- 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 



147 



force the minimum of 20 cents local dues, or 85 cents in all; 
10 unions charge 90 cents; 5 charge 95 cents; and 7 charge 
$1. All of the unions reported from the Pacific section, with 
one exception, charge more than the minimum dues. 

4. Label. Of 73 unions reporting, 66 use the label. 
Where a local union does not use the label, either they have 
no union stores, and have therefore no right to use it, or else 
there is some objection to its use by employers or men. 

5. Merchant Tailoring Establishments. Of 1,332 es- 
tablishments reported from 69 cities (New York, Troy, Chi- 
cago, and San Francisco not reporting), 421, or 31.6 per 
cent of the total, are ''union shops." 

6. Custom Tailors. The following table shows the de- 
gree of organization by sections and on the whole : 







Total 


Total cus- 




Section 


Cities 


custom 


tom tailors 


Per cent 




reporting. 


tailors. 


in unions. 


in unions. 


New England 


5 


618 


186 


30.0 


Middle Atlantic 


9 


17,640 


1,383 


7.8 


East North Central 


22 


1,675 


807 


48.2 


West North Central 


9 


563 


463 


82.2 


South Atlantic 


5 


493 


153 


31.0 


East South Central 


I 


23 


21 


91-3 


West South Central 


5 


177 


102 


57-7 


Mountain 


2 


84 


69 


78.0 


Pacific 


6 


1,009 


601 


60.5 


Canada 


3 


342 


155 


48.3 



Tot^l 



(>7 



22,624 



3,940 



17.4 



The above figures are misleading unless especial account 
is taken of the New York situation. If New York is left 
out, there are 66 cities reporting, with a total of 6,624 cus- 
tom tailors, of whom 2,940 are in the union, or 44.4 per 
cent. This is a much fairer average for the whole country 
than the 17.4 per cent shown when New York is included. 

The most striking fact shown by the table with respect 
to degree of organization in the different sections is the 
steady improvement of organization as we pass from the 



148 



STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 



eastern sections to the western. This is due in part to the 
newness of the western country and the greater economic 
opportunity, but in a far greater measure it is due to the 
situation with reference to cheap immigrant labor. In the 
New England and Atlantic states, where such labor is plenti- 
ful, union organization is very difficult, for three principal 
reasons: (i) Many of the immigrants have a low standard 
of living, and are not ambitious to improve their conditions. 
(2) The diversity of races makes it hard to secure united 
action. (3) The most intelligent and skilled tailors in these 
sections are often employers, as well as craftsmen, being in 
the contracting business, or having a number of helpers un- 
der them. Their interest in unionism is not, therefore, as 
great as that of less independent workers. The Middle West 
and far West show a great improvement over conditions in 
the New England and Atlantic sections ; there are more Ger- 
man, Scandinavian and American tailors, who work together 
and make good unionists. 

Degreb oif Organization. 



Percent 
Organized. 





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Total cities reporting 67 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 149 

It is now in order to consider further the variations in 
the degree of organization. (See table, ''Degree of Organi- 
zation.") It is found that there is a distinct mode for cities 
more than 90 per cent organized, 24 cities falling within this 
group, out of 67 cities reporting. If we consider cities 
more than 80 per cent organized, we find that there are 34, 
or more than half. The number of cities lying within each 
group determined by the percentages of organization increases 
steadily as the characteristic percentage of the group in- 
creases. This leads to the conclusion that the tailors, upon 
the whole, are fairly well organized in the cities reported. 
It is noticed that practically all of the cities in the East North 
Central section and in the sections west of the Mississippi 
are more than 50 per cent organized. 

Large and small cities. 

To compare degrees of organization in large and small 
cities the following tables are compiled: 



Degree 


OF 


Organization, 


Ten 


Large Cities. 
















Union 


Per cent 


City 


Total 


custom 


tailors. 


members. 


union. 


New York 






16,000 






1,000 


6.25 


Boston 






461 






61 


132 


Cleveland 






450 






150 


ZZ-Z 


Baltimore 






216 






16 


7A 


Pittsburgh 






1,100 






100 


9.0 


Buffalo 






365 






165 


45.2 


San Francisco 






550 






300 


54-5 


Milwaukee 






603 






153 


25.3 


Kansas City- 






305 






230 


75-4 


Indianapolis 






132 






82 


62.1 


Portland 






335 






185 


55.2 



Total 20,517 2,442 II. 9 



150 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

Degree of Organization, Ten Small Cities. 







Union 


Per cent 


City 


Total custom tailors. 


members. 


union. 


Danbury, Conn. 


14 


14 


100. 


Dubois, Pa. 


II 


9 


81.8 


No. Adams, Mass. 


26 


16 


61.5 


Logansport, Ind. 


39 


20 


51.3 


Belleville, 111. 


21 


21 


100. 


Burlington, Iowa 


34 


34 


100. 


Ft. Smith, Ark. 


10 


6 


60. 


Owensboro, Ky. 


23 


21 


91-3 


Stockton, Calif. 


50 


49 


98. 


St. Catherine's, Ont. 


39 


35 


89.7 



Total 267 225 84.3 

Note. The population of each of the above cities lies between 10,000 
and 25,000. 

It is seen that in the ten large cities named there are 
20,517 custom tailors, of whom 2,442 are in the unions, or 
1 1.9 per cent; whereas in the ten small cities, containing 
267 tailors, 225 are in the unions, or 84.3 per cent. This 
great difference is due to the cheap labor in large cities, al- 
ready discussed, and to the difficulty which the large city, 
by reason of its very size, offers to thorough organizing 
work. 



TABLE 8. 

NATURE OF SHOPS. 

SYSTEMS OF PRODUCTION AND WAGE PAYMENT 

JAN. I, 191 2 



152 



STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 



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IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 



155 



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156 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

Table 8. Nature of shops. Systems of production and 
wage payment. 

(a) Notation. As in Table 7, dotted lines (....) indicate 
"no answer," and a blank *'zero" or "none." 

Under the last column, "helper rule," the following ab- 
breviations are used: 

n.h. — no helpers employed. 

n.r. — no rule. 

o — no helpers allowed. 

I, 2, etc. — One helper allowed, two helpers allowed, etc. 

(b) Special notes. 

1. The returns on which this table is based show directly 
the following facts: (i) Total membership of union. (2) 
Union members in free shops. (3) Union members on team 
system. (4) Weekly scale workers. (5) Apprentices. (6) 
Limit hours? (7) Helper rule. 

The following facts are not shown directly by the re- 
turns: (i) Union members in rented shops or at home. (2) 
Union members on individual system. (3) Piece workers. 
The figures given in the table for these last three subjects 
are derived by subtracting the figures respectively for free 
shops, team system, and weekly workers, from the total mem- 
bership. The figures so obtained are subject to a slight cor- 
rection, in view of the fact that in reporting "total member- 
ship" the secretaries have included members not working at 
the trade, e.g., invalid and retired members. The correction 
is however, not an important one, as there are only a few 
such members. 

2. Methods of production have been discussed in Chap- 
ter 2. 

3. Limitation of hours. The question sent out about 
this subject was intended to refer to piece-workers. Prac- 
tically all the unions limit the hours of time-workers, e.g., 
bushelmen. It is believed that as a rule the secretaries have 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 157 

answered the question with reference to piece-workers, as 
intended. In some cases they have indicated specifically the 
meaning of the answer, and it is placed in the foot-notes. 

(c) Analysis and conclusions. 

1. Shops. In the 71 cities reporting on this qwestion, 
(Peoria and Burlington not reporting), there are 5,366 union 
members, and of these 2,308, or 43 per cent, are working 
in free shops. In the 17 large cities named in a former table, 
containing 4,047 members, only 1,253, or 30.9 per cent, are 
in the free shops. This shows that the free shops are less 
frequent in the large cities ; in fact, in New York, Pittsburgh, 
and Baltimore, it is stated that there are no members in free 
shops. There are, however, some large cities where the rule 
does not hold good, and where a large part of the members 
are in free shops ; such cities are Seattle, Portland, San Fran- 
cisco, St. Paul, Atlanta, and Winnipeg. 

2. Systems of production. It is found by summarizing the 
tables that of 5,308 union members in 72 cities (Buffalo not 
reporting), only 268 are working on the team system, the 
balance, in so far as they are working at the trade, being 
employed on the individual system. Of the 268, 235 are 
employed in San Francisco and Seattle alone. It has only 
been recently that the Tailors' Union has consented to or- 
ganize workers on the newer systems, and there has not been 
time for many of such workers to be organized; moreover, 
the system itself is of recent growth. It seems to have ob- 
tained a greater foot-hold in the West than elsewhere. 

3. Wage payment. Of 5,084 union members in 69 cities, 
(Cleveland, Milwaukee, San Antonio, and Stockton not re- 
porting), 1,114 are reported as working on a weekly scale. 
Of these 255 are in San Francisco and Seattle. As already 
explained, (Chapter 2), "team" workers are usually paid by 
the week, which accounts for the large proportion in these 



158 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

two cities. Outside of team workers, the majority of weekly 
workers are bushelmen. 

4. Apprentices. In 72 cities, (Cleveland not reporting), 
containing 5,323 members, there are 180 apprentices, or 
about one to every thirty members. This exceedingly small 
proportion confirms the conclusion drawn from studies in 
other industries, that the apprenticeship system is rapidly de- 
clining. 

5. Limitation of hours. Of 73 cities reporting, only ten 
limit the hours of piece-workers. The pressure during the 
rush seasons is such that this kind of limitation is almost 
impossible, as long as the members work by the piece, and 
are responsible in a measure for their own output. 

6. Helper rule. This question has been answered for 67 
cities, (Joliet, Pekin, Kenosha, Boston, Seattle, and Dubuque 
not reporting). Six unions report that there are no helpers 
employed by their members. Twenty-five unions have no 
rule on the subject. Ten unions have a rule that no helpers 
shall be employed. Twenty-three unions permit one helper 
only. This is the traditional rule of the Tailors' Union, and 
at one time was embodied in their national constitution. At 
the present tme the local unions are permitted to use their 
own discretion as to rules on the subject of helpers. Two 
unions permit as many as two helpers, and one, St. Cather- 
ine's, Canada, reports a rule of "one helper to each shop." 



Retail 

Prices 

of 

Suits 


aSBjaAV 


jsaqSiH 


^saAvoq 


uoTUfi ssaoxg ;naoj 


Estimated Averse Yearly 

Earning-s, 1911 

(Employment Estimated 

at 250 days) 


sjadiaH 


saan-io^ 


-laqsne 


sja>iBiM; 
sjasnoax 


sja>iBi\[ 
IsaA 


saaJiBi\[ 

IBOO 




Journey- 
men's 

Weekly 
Wag-e 


( 

s- 




CO 

w 
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< 

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a 

1 

xn 
w 
C 


CO 

■M 

(0 
V 

> 




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CO 

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cng 

CO 




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Q 


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D.B. 

Prince 

Albert 

Coat 


< 




D. B. 

Frock 

Overcoat 


^i 


CO c 


D.B. 

Sack 
Overcoat 


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S.B. 

Sack 

Overcoat 






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N n 



TABL,E 9. WAGES AND PRICES. 



103 



03 



Ne^u England 
States 

Boston 

Lowell 

Holyoke 

No. Adams 

Danbury 

Middle Atlantic 
States 

New York 

46 Buffalo 

14 Troy 

172 Niagara Falls 
18 Poughkeepsie. 

131 Pittsburg- P^ 

67 Erie 

130 New Castle, 
288 Bradford... 

308 Dubois 

\East No. Central 
I States 

162 Cleveland 

UOFlndlay 

157 Indianapoljs 
118 Ft. Wayne.. 
220 Logad sport. 

32 Peru .. 

5 Chicago 

19 Peoria 

115 Joliet 

l52Panville .... 
24 Blooraington 
34 Rocli Island 
294 Belleville . 
2l2|JacUsouville 
337 Kankakee. . . 
8 Champaign . 

360|Pekin 

Ottawa 
210 



670,585 
106,294 
57,730 
22,019 
20,234 



4,766,883 
423,715 
76,813 
30,445 
27,93b 



1911 
1911 
1911 
1911 
1911 
533;90S| 100]1890 1911 



66,525 
36,280 
14,544 
12,623 



461890 
201890 
161899 



Arbor — 
Milwaukee — 

Superior 

Green Bay — 

KenosUa 

Manitowac. . 
Watertown . . 
West No. Cent. 
States 

St. Paul 

232 Sioux City 

300 Davenport 

72 Dubuque 

42 Waterloo 

207 Burlington 

109 Ft. Dodge 

158 Ft. Madison 

64 Kansas City... 

237Fargo 

\South Atlantic 
States 

4 Baltimore 

17 Charleston 

51 Atlanta 

319 Jacksonville ... . 

279 Pensacola 

\East Soittlt Cent- 
ral States 
124 Owensboro.. .... 

]Vest South Cent- 
ral States 

73lFt. Smith 

Hot Springs 

Helena 

San Antonio — 

Ft. Worth 

Mountain States 

Butte 

Ogden 

Pacific States 

Seattle 

Hoquiam 

Olympia 

Portland 

San Francisco.. 

San Jose 

Stockton 

Winnipeg 

Calgary 

235lSt. Catherines... 



560,663 

14,858 

233,650 

63,933 

19,050 

10,910 

2,185,283 

66,950 

34,670 

27,871 

25,768 

24,335 

21,122 

I5,326l 

13,9861 

12,421 

9,897 

9,535| 

14,817 

373,857 

40,384 

25,236 

21,371 

13,027 

8,829 



214,744 
47,828 
43,028 
38,494 
26,693 
24,324 
15,543 
8,900 

248,381 
14,331 



1911 
1911 
1911 
1912 
1911 
1911 
1911 
1911 
19031911 
19031911 
1890 1911 
1899 1911 
19001911 
1902ll911 
19021911 
18901911 



Alta. 
Ont. 



558,485 
58,833 

154,839 
57,699 
22,982 



23,975 
14,434 
8,772 
96,614 
73,312 



237,194 
8,171 
6,996 
207,214 
416,912 
28,946 
23,253 

135,440 
43,736 
12,460 



WAGES— PIECE RATES 



S.B. 

Sack 

Overcoat 



16 00 
9 00 

7 00 
12 50 

8 50 



1911 

1911 

1911 

1911 

1911 

1911 

1911 

1911 

1911" 23 

1911 



21 



9 00 

8 00 
10 00 

9 00 
8 75 

7 SO 

8 SO 



D.B. 

Sack 
Overcoat 



D. B. 

Frock 

Overcoat 



18 75 
to 50 

9 00 
13 50 

8 50 



10 00 

15 00 

11 50 
11 00 
10 00 

16 00 
9 00 

10 50 



12 00 
9 00 

10 50 

9 SO 

11 00 

8 00 

9 00 
10 50 



9 00 
7 50 

10 25 

7 50 
10 00 

8 00 
10 00 

9 50 

10 25 
9 50 
8 25 

7 00 

8 00 



15 00 

9 50 
12 75 
10 00 
10 00 
10 25 
12 00 
14 00 

10 25 

11 00 
11 SO 

10 75 



10 00 
13 50 
10 00 



7 00 
13 SO 

8 50 



13 00 
16 00 
12 50 
12 00 
10 50 
18 00 
9 50 
10 50 
12 50 



9 50 
8 00 

11 25 
8 00 

10 00 
8 50 

12 00 



17 00 
9 50 
10 50 



9 50 
11 00 
11 50 



Journey- 
men's 
Weekly 

Wage 



Estimat'd Aver'ge Yearly 

Earnings, 1911 

(Employment Estimated 

at 250 days) 



oS 



HS 



SB 



20 00 
12 SO 
12 00 
14 00 
8 SO 



13 00 

10 25 
10 00 
13 00 

8 SO 



18 00 
18 00 
15 00 
13 00 

10 50 

11 00 
13 50 
13 00 



16 00 10 00 

10 25 9 00 

13 75 13 25 

11 00 9 00 

10 00 10 00 

11 25 

14 00|l5 00 

15 00 
11 25|l3 00 
11 50 12 25 



18 00 
10 75 
12 00 
14 00 
8 50 



17 00 
10 00 

10 50 

8 00 

11 00 

8 00 

9 00 
11 00 



18 00 
12 00 

15 25 

12 00 
11 00 

13 50 
17 00 

16 SO 

14 00 
13 25 

11 00 



1 00 

5 50 
10 50 

10 50 
9 00 

11 00 
9 00 
7 00 

6 50 

5 00 

6 50 



8 75 11 00 9 50 
, „„ 6 50 9 00 
10 001 9 00 10 sol 9 00 10 75 



9 01 
12 00 
12 00 

11 00 
10 SO 
14 00 
10 50 

12 00 
9 50 
9 00 
8 00 



11 00 

9 75 
7 00 
9 00 



12 50 
12 00 
12 00 
7 00 
11 00 



8 00 
SO 

10 SO 

10 50 

9 00 

11 00 
10 00 

7 50 
6 SO 



9 00 
12 00 10 00 
12 00 11 00 
11 OOlll 00 

11 00 
14 00 

12 50 
12 50 
10 00 
10 00 

8 50 



6 50 
10 00 

7 50 



1 00 
10 75 
10 50 
10 45 
10 00 
18 70 
12 00 



12 50 

13 00 
16 00 

11 00 

12 25 



13 00 
12 00 

10 00 

11 00 

14 30 



IS 75 
13 00 
10 00 
15 03 
6 00 

12 00 

13 50 



13 SO 
11 25 
9 00 



12 50 
7 50 
12 50 



17 65 
15 00 

12 SO 
17 00 

11 00 
14 00 

13 50 

9 50 

12 00 
9 25 



15 00 

11 75 
10 50 

16 00 
14 00 

10 00 

12 00 
9 00 



13 00 
11 25 

8 00 

9 00 

11 75 
9 00 
15 25 



18 00 
16 00 

11 00 

12 00 
9 00 

18 00 
9 75 

11 00 

12 50 



10 00 
10 00 
10 75 
8 00 
10 00 

8 00 
12 00 

10 50 

10 00 

11 50 

9 50 
9 00 
9 50 



12 00 
7 75 
7 50 
9 20 
6 SO 



10 00 
10 SO 
8 75 
8 00 

6 50 
12 00 

7 75 

8 25 
8 2S 



16 00 5 SO 

12 00 6 00 

13 00 



10 00 

10 50 
9 00 

11 00 
10 00 

7 00 

7 00 

8 75 
7 50 



14 SO 
12 25 
U 00 
12 25 

12 95 
11 00 
20 00 



15 00 
13 00 
13 SO 



13 50 

13 00 
11 00 
11 50 

14 30 

18 00 



17 25 

14 00 
11 00 

15 SO 



20 15 

16 00 
13 50 

17 50 



9 70 



12 00 
17 00 
9 00 

14 00 

15 SO 

9 62 



11 00 

10 50 

11 00 
15 00 
15 50 

11 00 
10 50 
13 00 
10 75 

9 00 
10 25 

9 50 
13 00 

12 00 

12 00 

10 50 

13 SO 
12 00 

11 75 

10 00 
10 00 

9 00 



11 00 

7 00 

7 00 

8 45 
6 00 



8 50 
7 25 

6 00 
10 00 

7 25 
7 75 
7 75 



11 00 

10 25 
7 00 
9 00 

9 50 
9 00 
15 30 

11 SO 



14 00 

12 00 

13 00 
9 00 

10 50 



14 00 
14 SO 
13 00 
13 50 
17 50 

19 00 



14 SO 
18 50 

12 00 

14 00 

15 50 

11 75 

13 50 
10 45 



12 50 
11 50 
9 SO 
11 75 

10 45 
U 00 
19 00 
14 50 



7 50 

6 00 

7 00 

6 50 
9 00 

7 50 
7 50 
7 SO 
6 50 

5 00 

6 50 

6 50 

7 00 

7 00 

8 00 

6 00 

7 00 
7 50 
6 00 
5 00 

5 25 

6 00 



7 75 
7 75 
6 00 

6 75 

7 75 
5 50 

10 75 

8 50 



11 00 

8 00 

9 60 
8 50 
8 00 
8 50 

11 00 
11 00 
8 15 

8 25 

9 00 
9 00 
7 00 
7 50 
7 00 
9 00 



14 00 

15 75 

16 00 

12 00 

13 50 



14 00 
14 00 

11 00 

12 50 
17 75 



17 00 

14 00 

12 00 

15 50 
9 00 

13 00 
13 75 

9 12 



10 00 

8 50 

9 00 
6 50 
8 SO 



20 00 

16 00 
14 00 

17 00 

12 00 
14 00 

13 75 

11 25 
13 50 
10 25 



11 50 

8 SO 

9 00 
9 SO 
4 00 
9 00 

10 00 



9 50 

8 75 

7 00 

9 00 
9 00 

8 55 
8 00 

13 40 
10 00 



10 00 
9 50 

13 00 
9 50 

10 00 



12 90 
10 65 

10 25 

11 75 
6 00 

10 75 
10 00 



8 85 



7 25 
7 25 

5 SO 

6 25 

7 15 
5 SO 

10 25 
7 50 



10 00 
7 50 
9 00 
7 00 
7 00 
7 50 
10 00 
10 00 
7 35 

7 75 

8 50 
8 SO 
6 00 



10 50 

7 50 

8 00 
8 50 
3 00 

8 00 

9 00 

6 60 



9 00 

8 25 

6 00 
8 00 
8 50 

7 85 

7 00 
12 40 

8 75 



9 00 
9 00 
12 00 
8 65 



11 90 

9 65 
9 25 
10 75 
5 00 
9 75 
9 00 



8 35 



18 00 
16 50 
12 00 
15 00 
15 00 



16 00 
10 00 
15 00 

12 00 

13 50 
12 00 



14 00 

12 00 

13 00 
12 00 



12 00 

13 00 
12 00 



15 00 

12 00 

13 50 



13 00 
12 00 
15 00 
15 00 



18 00 
21 00 
20 00 
18 00 



20 on 


625 


625 


780 


625 


900 


IH (10 


7«n 


7(K1 


700 


8.S0 


7H0 


5 00 


6nn 


.500 


.500 


.550 


.5.50 


6 00 












15 00 


520 


400 


520 


7S0 


600 


IS 00 


600 


525 


,525 


525 


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iK no 


624 


6-24 


728 


728 


780 


[5 00 


7.S0 


600 


600 


600 




12 00 












4 (10 












16 0(1 


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15 no 


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7,50 


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600 






16 00 


700 


6'2b 


650 


750 


750 


16 no 








800 




1 5 00 


800 




hOd 




V80 


18 on 


780 


500 


700 


900 


800 


IS 00 














6(1(1 


4(K1 


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7'20 






6.5(1 


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628 






IS (Kl 


8(KI 


700 


800 


900 


800 


18 00 












15 on 








780 


780 


15 no 


65(1 


4.S(1 


6,S(I 


780 






7n(l 


35(1 


7(H1 


775 






725 


70(1 


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936 






75(1 


.■^(Kl 


60(1 


S.50 




15 0(1 


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475 


525 






15 no 


H.St 


6.S(I 


700 


850 




16 00 


xno 


7.S() 


77S 


700 






9(1(1 


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550 






14 00 


800 


SOO 


700 


750 




17 on 


8Z5 


765 


SOO 


7.50 




13 0(1 


75(1 


6.5(1 


70(1 


7(H) 


650 


15 no 


70(1 


.5.5(1 


650 






12 0(1 


72S 


,50(1 


700 


624 


624 


13 0(1 


6.S(I 


.5(KI 


.500 






13 00 


467 


344 


536 


643 




IS no 


son 


7.50 


7.50 


936 




19 on 


7.50 


7.'i0 


7.50 


7.S0 




16 00 


7.50 




600 




832 


13 K 












IS Of 


7.5(: 


70(1 


700 






16 .5( 












15 00 


800 


400 


640 


780 




19 00 


S9S 


700 


885 


9.50 




16 00 


750 


750 


750 


832 




n no 


450 


4.50 


4,50 


450 




1S0( 


601 




45( 


9.S( 




21 « 


832 


5-21 


728 


1000 




;o (K 














850 


700 


900 






16 £0 


760 










18 00 












20 on 














651 


.S(l( 


60( 






18 00 


725 


600 


850 


936 






900 


son 


9nn 


inon 


1000 


20 00 


850 


750 


850 


1040 


1040 


24 00 












21 (K 












?no( 


7n( 


4S( 


(i(K 




1040 


20 0( 


90( 


K(H 


936 


1(100 


1000 


V. 5( 


60f 


5n( 


.5nc 


900 


600 


71 on 


78' 


«9( 


784 


1096 




20 00 


775 


775 


775 


775 




IS ,50 


son 


.snn 


.sno 


900 




19 on 


inn( 


6(K 


6(H 


9.5(1 


950 


13 00 


550 


300 


325 


675 





300 



U^ 



nion sent returns for other tables, but no wage figures. ^Watertown 



■Pressman paid by employer does all. pressing for trousers and ^«f,."^'if„=: , /Highest for sack suiu. 'JMs nmop ,euu^.^.u.„= ...-^^^^.^^^^.^^-^^^^^^^ w°ere much lower than 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 159 

Table p. Wages and Prices. 

(a) Methods of wage payment. The wages of union 
tailors are governed by contracts with their employers, which 
are known as. ''bills of prices, "or "price bills." These con- 
tracts include scales for piece-workers, scales for time-work- 
ers, if any are employed, ^^^ and any other matters respecting 
conditions of employment which have been agreed tipon by 
the parties concerned. Some price-bills are signed by a single 
employer, but as a rule a union bill is signed by several em- 
ployers. On behalf of the union it is signed by the officers 
of the local. The price-bills are often elaborate, containing 
all the usual items of dress, and many ''extras." 

Helpers are paid by the journeymen. The usual rule is 
that the helper shall receive one-third of the full wage for 
making the suit; i.e., one-half as much as the journeymen 
receives. In some cities there are helpers of more than the 
average skill, who work under a journeyman, but still earn 
from $13.00 to $15.00 a week. Such helpers should not be 
confused with those who work for $8.00 or $10.00 a week. 
For example, Joliet, Illinois, reports helpers working at $13.50 
a week. 

(b) Special notes. 

1. Abbreviations. Under the heading of "Wages-Piece 
Rates" the abbreviation S.B. stands for "single-breasted," 
and D.B. for "double-breasted." 

2. Notation. In this table, where the secretary made 
no returns for any item, or where the meaning of the returns 
was not plain, a blank has been used. 

3. All returns are listed as received from the secretaries, 

i65ln most shops the bushelman is the only weekly worker, but there 
are cases where coatmakers, vestmakers, etc., are employed by the week, 
and some cases where a shop employs both piece and weekly workers, in 
addition to the bushelman. 



160 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

and no attempt has been made to go beyond the returns or 
to revise the estimates given. 

4. Per cent of increase in piece-rates (est.). Where the 
secretary reported the prices for only one date, but gave an 
estimate of the per cent of increase between the two dates 
named, this estimated per cent is inserted, in order to give 
some idea of what the prices on the other dates were. In 
all other cases, the probable inaccuracy of the percentages 
reported is such that they have not been inserted, and the 
figures are left to speak for themselves, except where there 
has been no increase, in which case a zero has been inserted. 

5. Piece-rates, -first and second dates. It is probable 
that in some cases the secretary has given under the first date 
the wages as they were on the first price-bill negotiated by 
the union, such wages being higher than wages paid prior to 
organization. The table will not show in such cases the com- 
plete advance secured by the organization, but only the differ- 
ence between the earliest and latest union bills. Thus, for 
example, the secretary in Watertown, Wisconsin, reports in 
a note to his returns that coatmakers' wages have gone up 
60 per cent over the old non-union bill, whereas the table 
shows only 16 to 20 per cent change in the piece-rates for 
coats, after the first union bill went in. 

6. Time rates. Journeymen's weekly wage. The figures 
in this column apply to weekly scale workers only. The 
figures given are for full-time wages. 

7. Estimated average yearly earnings, ipii. "Employ- 
ment estimated at 250 days.'' This estimate of employment 
does not apply rigorously to each class of trade. It is the 
best estimate that the writer was able to obtain of actual 
average yearly employment, counting out all time lost, and 
estimating a standard full-time day at ten hours. The note 
was inserted to indicate that the estimates given are of actual 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 



161 



earnings, and not of full-time earnings. Bushelnien lose a 
great deal less time than the other tradesmen. 

In some cases the secretaries have returned estimates of 
average weekly earnings. In such cases the writer has used 
these figures as a basis for the estimates given in the table. 

8. Per cent excess of union over non-union wages. 
Where the secretary does not give a definite answer, the space 
is left blank. If the secretary reports *'no excess," a zero is 
posted in the proper square. 

(c) Analysis and conclusions. 



Average Piece- Wage, Singi^e-Breasted Sack Coats, 
1911, BY Sections. 



Section. 


Cities. 


Average'^^^ Piece-Wage S. B 




Beporting. 


Sack Coafs, 1911. 


New England 


5 


% 7.89 


Middle Atlantic 


9 


8.33 


Kast North Central 


25 


7.84 


West North Central 


9 


8.42 


South Atlantic 


5 


9.53 


East South Central 


1 


8.50 


West South Central 


5 


8.86 


Mountain 


2 


10.25 


Pacific 


7 


9.33 


Canada 


3 


7.78 



Totals 



71 



% 8.39 



Notes. The average piece-wage for single-breasted sack 
coats in 191 1 is found to be, in the 71 cities reporting, $8.39. 
It is seen that in the New England, Middle Atlantic, and 
East North Central sections, and in Canada, the piece-wage 
is below the average. The West North Central, East South 
Central, and West South Central sections show a little above 
the average. The South Atlantic, Mountain, and Pacific 
sections show decidedly above the average. It is the general 
impression that wages in most industries are higher in the 

iGGXhe averages given here are by citieis, and are not weighted ac- 
cording to the number of individual tailors working under a given scale. 



162 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

West, and it is not surprising to find this true in the tailoring 
trade. It might, however, be expected that the South At- 
lantic cities would show a lower bill. The essential reason 
why they do not is that in these cities, including for example, 
Baltimore, Charleston, and Jacksonville, there are compara- 
tively few tailors in the unions, and these are of the first 
class as to skill, being employed on fashionable trade, 
where the employer prefers the best help, in spite of the fact 
that he could obtain cheaper help. It is very doubtful if this 
section would compare as favorably as it does with the West 
if the wages of non-union tailors were included. In fact, 
Atlanta reports that union wages are 20 per cent higher than 
non-union, and Jacksonville, 25 per cent higher. 

In interpreting the entire table of wages it must be taken 
into account that there is a very wide diversity with refer- 
ence to the quality of the trade made in the various cities, 
and frequently this consideration has a more direct bearing 
on the piece-scales than any sectional distinction. A fair in- 
dex of the quality of trade may be found in the retail prices 
of suits, which are given in the last column of the table. 

Average Piece-wage, Trousers, 191 i, by Sections. 





Cities 


Av. 


piece-wage, 


Section 


reporting. 


trousers, 1911. 


New England 


5 




$2.22 


Middle Atlantic 


9 




2.33 


East North Central 


24 




2.47 


West North Central 


8 




2.86 


South Atlantic 


5 




306 


East South Central 


I 




2.50 


West South Central 


5 




2.85 


Mountain 


2 




3-75 


Pacific 


7 




319 


Canada 


3 




2.38 



Total 69 2.65 

Notes. The average piece-wage for trousers in 69 cities 
is fo^md to be $2.65. The variations by sections are found 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 163 

to be almost exactly the same as described for coats. This 
results from the fact that when a bill of prices is changed by 
negotiation between the union and the employers, all items 
are changed in proportion. 

Average Piece- wage. Vests, 191 i, by Sections. 





Cities 


Av. piece-wage, 


Section. 


reporting. 


vests, 1911. 


New England 


5 


$2.03 


Middle Atlantic 


9 


2.07 


East North Central 


24 


2.04 


West North Central 


9 


2.40 


South Atlantic 


5 


2.20 


East South Central 


I 


1.75 


West South Central 


5 


2.60 


Mountain 


2 


Z-Z7 


Pacific 


7 


2.67 


Canada 


3 


2.05 



Total 70 2.24 

Notes. The average piece-wage for vests in 70 cities is 
found to be $2.24. Variations by sections are similar to 
those for coats and trousers, except that Owensboro, the only 
city reporting in the East South Central section, has an ex- 
ceptionally low vest bill, ($1.75) ; and the South Atlantic 
section falls belovv^ the average, probably for the reason that 
a larger part of the work on vests is done by helpers than 
in the case of the other items. Helpers are numerous in the 
East, and do not, of course, receive as good wages as the 
master- workmen. 





PlECE- 


WAGES FOR 


S.B. S. 


ACK 


Co. 


ATS. 








Section. 


$c 


;.oo-6.99 


$7. 


00-8. 


49 




$8. 


50-9.99 


$] 


[0.00 and 
over. 


New England 




I 




3 








, 




I 


Middle Atlantic 




I 




4 








2 




2 


E. N. Central 




4 




13 








5 




3 


W. N. Central 




I 




4 








3 




I 


South Atlantic 
















4 




I 


E. S. Central 




. 












I 




, 


W. S. Central 




. 




T 








4 




. 


Mountain 




. 




. 








I 




I 


Pacific 




I 




. 








4 




2 


Canada 




. 




3 












, 



Totals 8 28 24 II 



164 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

Notes. The figures in the vertical columns stand for 
cities. The table for the Middle Atlantic section, for ex- 
ample, is to be read as follows: "In the Middle Atlantic 
section, i city reports a piece-wage for sack coats between 
$5.00 and $6.99; 4 cities report a piece-wage between $7.00 
and $8.49;" etc. It is found that the medium prices, from 
$7.00 to $9.99, inclusive, obtain in 52 cities, being about 
equally distributed between the high and low medium prices. 
This table also shows the fact indicated by former tables, 
that the South Atlantic and the western sections show dis- 
tinctively high wages. 

Piece-wages, Single-breasted Sack Coats, Ten Large Cities. 

City. Piece-wage, 

S. B. Sack Coats, iQji. 

New York $ 9.00 

Boston 11.00 

Cleveland 10.00 

Baltimore 9.00 

Pittsburgh 10.00 

Buffalo 11.50 

Kansas City 12.40 

Indianapolis 9.00 

Portland 10.75 

Winnipeg 7.50 



Average $10.01 

Piece-wages, Single-breasted Sack Coats, Ten Small Cities. 

City. Piece-wage, 

S. B. Sack Coats, 191 1. 

Danbury, Conn. $6.00 

Bradford, Pa. 7.75 

North Adams, Mass. 8.45 

Logansport, Ind. 7.00 

Belleville, 111. 6.00 

Burlington, Iowa 8.50 

Fort Smith, Ark. 9.00 

Owensboro, Ky. 8.50 

Stockton, Cal. 9.00 

St. Catherine's, Ont. 8.35 



Average $7.85 

It is found that the average piece-wage for sack coats in 
ten large cities is $10.01, and in ten small cities, $7.85. This 



IN THE CUSTOM TAILORING TRADE 165 

great difference is due in the main to two causes : ( i ) Liv- 
ing is higher in the large city, and it is necessary to pay tailors 
more to hold them. (2) More fine tailoring is done in the 
large city, and the employers can afford to pay a good bill 
in order to get the best journeymen. 

List of 8 Cities, 80 per cent or More Organized, Giving Degree of 
Organization, and Increase in Piece-rates for S.B, Sack Coats, 
IN 21 Years, 1890-1911. 





Per cent 


Piece-rate 


Piece-rate 


Per cen 


City 


organized. 


1890 


1911 


increase. 


Holyoke 


87 


$5.00 


$7.00 


40 


Danbury 


100 


6.00 


6.00 





Bloomington 


90 


7.00 


8.50 


21 


Superior 


92 


7.00 


8.00 


14 


Sioux City 


95 


7.25 


9.00 


24 


Olympia 


100 


8.00 


9.2s 


IS 


Stockton 


98 


9.00 


9.00 





San Jose 


89 


8.00 


9-75 


22 



List of 8 Cities, 50 per cent or Less Organized, Giving Degree of 
Organization, and Increase in Piece-rates for S.B. Sack Coats, 
in 21 Years, 1890-1911. 





Per cent 


Piece-rate 


Piece-rate 


Per cent 


City 


organised. 


1890 


1911 


increase. 


Boston 


13 


$8.00 


$11.00 


37 


Pittsburgh 


9 


6.75 


10.00 


55 


Cleveland 


32 


5-00 


10.00 


100 


Baltimore 


7 


9.00 


9.00 





Winnipeg 


36 


6.50 


7-50 


15 


Buffalo 


45 


500 


11.50 


130 


Poughkeepsie 


47 


5-00 


6.00 


20 


Jacksonville, Fla. 


50 


6.00 


8.65 


44 



The two tables above have been compiled in the endeavor 
to trace a connection between the degree of organization and 
the per cent of increase in piece-rates for a typical garment, 
such as a sack coat, The results of this comparison are 
curious. The cities organized less than 50 per cent show the 
highest percentages of increase. This can only be explained 
on the ground that the cities the least organized are at the 
same time, with a few exceptions, the largest cities, and the 



166 STUDIES IN TRADE UNIONISM 

influence of the size of city and the quality of trade is greater 
than that of the degree of organization. 

Estimated Avi:,rage Yeari^y Earnings, 191 i. 

Under the head of yearly earnings little more is attempted 
than to list the returns as reported by the secretaries. The 
considerations by which the relation between yearly earnings 
and piece-rates is tO' be traced are complicated, and the writer 
is convinced that there is a considerable degree of error in the 
estimates given. No time or space is devoted, therefore, to 
an analysis of these figures, until such time as they can be 
checked with g^reater accuracy. 

Retaii, Prices 0^ Suits. 

The average as reported by the secretaries is usually given 
as less than the arithmetical mean of the highest and lowest. 
This upon the whole is accurate, and indicates that a greater 
number of the lower priced suits are sold. 

CONCI^UDING NOTE^ WaGES AND CONDITIONS OF UnION 

Tailors. 

The statistics presented in the preceding pages are not 
complete, but they are fairly representative, both with ref- 
erence to the size of cities and with reference to geographical 
sections. No attempt is made here to draw general conclu- 
sions, as the diversity of conditions in the tailoring industry 
makes this well-nigh impossible without more complete data. 
The leading impression that the writer has received from the 
study of the returns received is that local conditions operate 
to a far greater extent than generally supposed to determine 
the conditions of the workers, and that any attempt to apply 
general economic principles to an investigation of this kind 
will have to be made in the light of the numerous exceptions 
and variations that are to be discovered. 



MAR 24 1913 



